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Clutch question...


Andy74tii

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Hi, I recently replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders, then bled it. For a few weeks, the clutch has worked fine. Yesterday, however, the clutch pedal started to get stiff again. I just tried bleeding it again, but no change in the pedal. What is the problem when you have a clutch pedal that takes a lot of effort to depress? When I bleed, fluid does come out, which indicates there is hydraulic pressure in the system .... ?

Thanks,

Andy74tii

FAQ Member #126

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= binding of the clutch pedal piviot down inside the pedal box

dirt/rust/25+years of corrosion

or rusty/gunked up clutch disk splines - another 20+year condition

remove the trans w/clutch and clean the trans input shaft,

damaged clutch release fork

gotta take something apart - eventually

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Guest Anonymous

doubt bleeding will fix it - the symptom of air in the system isn't stiffness, but flacidness - low release point and several pumps to disengage the clutch. The solution for that is automotive Viagra, i.e. get the air out by bleeding. Your problem is the stiffness that lasts more than 4 hours, and for that you need to follow C.D.'s suggestions above. A crimped hose might do it too.

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Replace the hose. It does not need to be crimped to fail. Sometimes the hole swells shut. I have seen this happen to brake lines. I have also seen brake lines act as one-way valves that kept the brakes from releasing. I realize that you are still able to bleed the system, but things can change when real pressure is applied.

Remove the hose and blow through it with your mouth to test it. It should not feel restricted.

No amount of skill or education will ever replace dumb luck
1971 2002 (much modified rocket),  1987 635CSI (beauty),  

2000 323i,  1996 Silverado Pickup (very useful)

Too many cars.

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Thanks for the tips, guys. Keep in mind that this car was a total restoration six years ago, and at that time, while engine was out of car, the clutch was new, transmission rebuilt, engine rebuilt, pedal box rebuilt, etc. In looking at the pedal box, it still seems pretty pristine. I even had all the hardware yellow zinc replated, and it looks good. It looks like all is well under there, but I will take a look at the clutch fork, but not yet ready to take the tranny out! Thanks again!

FAQ Member #126

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Don't underestimate the power of the pedal box to rust up in the pivots...

that's easy to check, as the pedal won't want to move at all...

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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