Restoration advice on my '72

[PG7202]

I’m in the process of fixing up my ‘72 and have run in to a dilemma. I picked up a ’69 to use for parts (doors, hood, trunk) but it is in better shape than I expected and I’m not sure if I should I continue on with pulling parts of the ’69 and doing the rust repairs on the ’72 or should I move all the goodies on my ’72 to the ’69.

My concern in moving parts over to the ’69 is that it will involve a work around for the electrical/fuel issues of the tii motor and the 6 fuse / 12 fuse differences. Adjustments to put the ’72 dash in the ’69 etc. (heater controls etc.)

My '72 drives like a champ with tii motor, 10.5 pistons, (150 psi across all four) big brake upgrade, 5 spd, LSD, decent interior and dash. Problem is rust in the following locations: rear wheel arch and lower front fender by door, trunk, hood, both doors, rear window sill on both sides and assorted spots at knee line trim clips. None of the rust is structural or particularly large but lots of small spots spread around.

The ’69 has sunroof faded paint but only rust is at rear wheel arch and front valance. Interior and dash are shot. Motor may have higher comp pistons but is really an unknown (no comp test yet) with a standard 4spd and original solex carb. However it came with a pair of weber 42 DCOE with manifold & filters (no linkage) petronix and lowered springs.

I still have to do some more poking around on the ’69 to see what all is there but would like opinions/advice. Does anyone have experience swapping a 72 tii motor in to a 6 fuse chassis?

Thanks

[s99]

Personally, I'd swap everything over to the 69'. It seems to be in really good shape. I have no clue about any of the wiring, though! Goodluck!

[Mike Self]

or is it a carbureted car with a tii engine? If the former, it's worth saving if the rust isn't structural. If the latter...it's really your call.

As for the '69, the early cars are considerably scarcer than the later ones, as fewer were sold here in the states. Is it a "first series" '69 (VIN below 1664761) or a "second series" '69 with a higher VIN? If the former, it will be a real PITA to swap stuff into as it will have 2 piston calipers with the attendent different hydraulic plumbing, a long neck diff with different rear crossmember and driveshaft, etc etc.

From the pix and description, that '69 is worth saving--if not by you, then by someone else. If chassis and engine numbers match, someone is bound to want it. Hate to see a fixable car parted out.

They're your cars so it's your call; but I'd choose one to fix up without destroying the other...

my 2 cents worth...

cheers

mike

[CutteRug]

Either keep both cars and fix them both up... (Perhaps the '69 with a very 'stock' look, and the '72 more modded?) Or fix the '69 up a bit and sell it, but you're right - it's too nice to part out.

As for the 72's need for parts, just get your hands on a relatively rust-free 76 that someone is dumping because it can't pass CA smog. No one will mourn the death of a fatally vin'd squarie...

Good luck!

Adam

[PG7202]

The '72 was a carb version that had a tii transplant

The VIN is 1666016 and the numbers all match so it would be a later '69.

I think I may have to decide between keeping the '69 and working with what is there or passing it along and looking for parts elsewhere. I agree that it would make a solid candidate for restoration. Unfortunately keeping both is not an option. I'll investigate the motor and see what kind of shape it's in and hopefully that will help me decide.

Also does anybody have any experience running the weber 42's. I know some of the parts are NLA but is it a streetable set up? I may have a bit of torque withdrawl if I were to go to a stock set up.

[Tommy]

Would be real shame to part out that matching numbers -69. It should be restored to original shape, if not by you, then by someone else. Find another parts car.

Of course these are just my opinions and anybody can do whatever they want with their cars.

Tommy

[schwarz75]

The '69 looks like a great car.

[PG7202]

I think I will leave the '69 unmolested and see about getting the mechanicals sorted out, restore the interior and then paint.

I'll see if I can tuck the '72 away in a corner for a second project.

Thanks again

Adam

[BarryA]

modify to any significant degree - with the increasing desirability of original cars, it would seem like the best alternative would be to take whatever mechanical steps are required to put it back in operational condition, clean it up as much as possible, and look for a buyer if you don't want to (or can't) keep it. You'll certainly get much more for it as a running, driving car.

One side comment - in the photo of the car on the trailer, it looks like it might still be in possession of its original CA blue plates (if the car was sold new in CA in early '69, the letter series on the plate should be low in the alphabet - probably starting with a letter no higher than D or E). If it DOES have the original plates on it, do everything possible to avoid replacing them with new ones - assuming the car has not been registered for a few years, the DMV is almost certainly going to try to get you to turn in the original ones so they can issue plates from a current series.

If you have a CA title (or even the registration card from the last year the registration was active) that ties the plates to the car's vin, there should be no issue with keeping the plates - if you have NO documentation tying the plates to the vin, you can always conveniently "lose" the plates and turn in a DVM "Statement of Facts" that the plates were "Lost or Stolen" - at least that will let you keep the plates with the car. The original plates are part of the car's "provenance" and help support its value as an original CA car, so they're very much worth keeping with it.

[jerry]

I think I will leave the '69 unmolested and see about getting the mechanicals sorted out, restore the interior and then paint.

I'll see if I can tuck the '72 away in a corner for a second project.

Thanks again

Adam

Excellent choice. that is a beautiful car to keep as-is, just make sure you make it water tight.

another 6-fuse car saved for posterity.

there's a very early 1600 being parted out in the For Sale section, that is too painful to witness.

btw, those single barrel solex's have decent low-end torque as far as i'm concerned.