Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

71 1602 Pig Cheek


jmr_1602

Recommended Posts

I figured I'd start my "project" blog. I bought the car for 5K June '09 sight unseen, naive on my part, but I really wanted it, and I'm impulsive. Not sure if I spent too much, but I'm happy with my purchase, so to me it was worth it. The PO didn't have any history on the car except for the records he had kept on it for the 2 years or so he owned it.

side-2.jpg

Luckily, I think I made out. The car was originally Charmonix, but was resprayed Baikal a few years earlier, while the glass and engine was out. A few cancer spots along the rear driver fender, and driver door, but nothing major.

front.jpg

The over riders were fitted with a fog light bar. I have yet to add any lights so far.

back.jpg

The interior is in excellent condition. Only one small crack in the dash, brand new carpet, and the rear seats are in excellent shape. I replaced the stock seats with E21 Recaros I purchased from h8tbills. I also replaced the small 13" sport wheel with a Momo Monte Carlo (?) with a BMW horn button. I also got tired of my stock shift knob popping off while driving so I replaced it with a polished Momo one for now.

interior-1.jpg

interior-2.jpg

The original 1.6 liter had been replaced with a 76 2.0L E21 head. I didn't figure that out until a month of ownership. Ha! Since then, I've been learning as much as I can about the car (I am not mechanically inclined.) My curiosity of what else has been done to the car led me to find the following: LSD 390 diff, tii dizzy, 2002 front and rear sway bars, Bilstein Sports, unknown springs, K-Mac adjustable camber plates.

When I got the car it had a Weber 32/36 with electric choke. I've since replaced it with a single 45 DCOE with Lynx manifold. Still needs to be fine tuned but Im very pleased with it. I've also added a IE Shorty Header, IE ignition wire, NGK plugs, and a s14 starter.


engine-1.jpg

engine-2.jpg

Waiting to be installed are Alpina replica wheels (same ones as speedwell), battery relocation kit and collecting dust in my office is a port & polished E12 (casting 87) head with a reground Comp Cam.

From Andreas:
"The BMW 1600 US VIN 1571725 was manufactured on June 16th, 1970 and delivered on June 23rd, 1970 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Chamonix, paint code 085."

Edited by jmr_1602

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Project" is definitely a loose term here. Your car is beautiful. I could have bought this the same way you did because it shows beautifully. If you don't have a specific project in mind, I'd repost this in the General '02 forum and you'll get more views too.

Michael Rose

'91 Porsche 964
'00 Dodge Durango
'13 Honda Pilot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The manifold, carb and linkage was a straight forward install. Water bypass was simple also.

And judging by the seat of my pants, I felt a significant increase in power compared to my old 32/36. Mike from 'Sports & Imports' in Chesapeake took it around the block and said it felt almost comparable to the dual 40's he use to install into customers cars.

Side note: I tossed my Alpina reps onto the car today. I'll get pictures and specs later.

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the Lynx set up from Top End Performance.

I also like the look of white lettering on the side wall. I just put the Alpina reps on the 1602, and have been thinking about using a white paint marker to highlight "Dunlop" on them.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c373/hotpeas/IMG_0121.jpg

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Sorry for the late reply. I got the reps off of the vwvortex site. Im actually thinking about getting rid of them, but haven't made up my mind. I actually want some 13x7 or 13x8's.

Anyhow, I've run into problem that I'm trying to trouble shoot.

While driving, my car stalled and shut down. It would not restart, and I ended up waiting 5 hours for a tow truck.

I checked my battery and it had about 12.3V. I also checked all my grounds, and everything seemed to be in proper order. When I turn the key, I don't hear the starter engaging, and the electric fuel pump doesn't make the normal audible 'clicking" noises, in fact its a faint clicking noise that goes completely silent after about 5 seconds of turning the key.

I was going to remove the fuel line and check out the pumps output after 30 seconds of turning the key (like I've read in the archives), but honestly I don't think it's working at all.

So my question is. Do I have a fuel pump issue, or is it my ignition switch? I assume ignition switch since I hear next to nothing when turning the key over.

I'm not sure what else to mention, any suggestions would be appreciated. My cars specs are mentioned in the first post of this thread.

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just thought I'd update a little. Since I last posted, I've added I.E. fender flares (sorry purists.) I haven't gotten around to cutting the fenders yet, since starting school again, but it's in the plans. I also got some vintage plates from '71. VA DMV will let you register a car with old plates as long as they're in good condition and have space for registration stickers. The picture below was taken by one of my design interns. A little too much on the digitally enhanced side, but its the most current.

JasonBMW.jpg

I also replaced the Budweiser tall boy can, with a more period correct can. :) Tried finding a Warsteiner, no luck.

rad-overflow.jpg

Other than that, not much in the "project" sense. I have been trying to figure out a stalling problem. Car starts right up and idles fine, but under load it will stall around 3K. Ill try to correct the issue by hitting the gas, but it will eventually die.

Things I've done so far.

• replaced fuel filter.

• checked plugs, wires, dizzy cap.

• checked fuel pump out flow for 30 sec. (seemed fine)

• and sprayed the hell out of my jets with carb cleaner.

• floats seemed fine, no cracks, didn't hear any fluid in em either.

Tomorrow morning, I'm going to try cleaning the carb again, this time spraying copious amounts of carb cleaner down the vacant tubes after removing jets. Maybe something is sitting down there.

I also plan on seeing how the car runs w/out the gas cap (read that somewhere), and checking for vacuum leaks. Though not sure how to do so. I think I read in the archives, spritzing water around intake manifold and vacuum hoses and looking for any changes in how the engine runs.

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So this morning, I cleaned out every crevice of my 45 DCOE I could find with carb cleaner. checked for vacuum leaks and found none. Ran the car afterwards, and I had no stalling issues under load, but I didn't want to get my hopes up so...

I moved on to the gas tank. I removed the in-tank fuel sender unit, and noticed the screen floating at the bottom of the tank. I think it fell off while trying to remove the fuel sender tho. Anyhow, after 30 minutes I was able to get it out of using a long oil paint brush with a small gauge needle taped to the end of it.

The screen (fine metal mesh kind) itself was heavily clogged, and it had a few rips along the ring. I cleaned to the best of my abilities, with soap/water, and carb cleaner. Flow was improved when I tested it by blowing air threw it, but fluids don's seem to freely flow. However I still need to replace it due to the rips.

I used the search function (typed in "fuel sender" AND "screen") and found out that they are NLA, but then again I heard members getting them from Max or Blunt. So now Im on the look out for a replacement screen.

Sorry no pics.

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

So a few months ago I got in a wreck. After fighting with my insurance company over the value of my car we finally came to an agreement 2 months later.

My new plans are:

- Ditch turbo flares, and install pig-cheeks. (Mana Motorsport fronts, IE rears)

- Ditch 15" Alpina reps and return to 13's. (ATS Classics)

- Replace nose panel with a brand new one from Mobile Traditions.

- Replace hood with FG hood from Korman.

- Nameless Performance radiator

Pics of the car when I got it back from the salvage yard.

wreck-2.jpg

wreck-1.jpg

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Body work has begun. I've never tackled a project like this, so I don't excpect things to come out perfect. So far I've been happy with my progress.

I received my front Alpina flares from Mana Motorsports last week, and Im very happy with the quality. They're definitely not flimsy, and appear to be pretty symmetric when compared to each other.

Fitting them has not been much of a hassle, some trimming around the turn signal housing and by the door. I cut the panel off the original fenders that bolts to the chassis (close to the door) and epoxied them to the new fiberglass fenders.

While I had the fenders off, I also went ahead and put down two coats of Por-15 (semi-gloss black).

Now I'm just waiting for my Korman hood, IE rear flares, and Nameless Performance radiator.

pc-front.jpg

pc-left.jpg

pc-right.jpg

pc-close.jpg

pc-top.jpg

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Temporarily I've painted my ATS Classics. They had some curb rash and most of the clear coat had chipped off. Once my budget allows, I'll probably get them powder coated. For now - Duplicolor "Graphite" will make due.

ats-strip.jpg

ats-paint.jpg

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...