engine and drivetrain Since we (mostly) all live with rust on our 02s, here's an

[Mike Self]

interesting comparison of various penetrating oils:

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break

out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective

test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque

required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil Average load

None ..................... 516 pounds

WD-40 .................. 238 pounds

PB Blaster ..............214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic

transmission fluid and acetone.

Note: The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this

one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now

use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as

good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Anyone every mix up any ATF/acetone?

cheers

mike

[vinceinIL]

I've mixed up a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF, and it seems like the acetone might have evaporated pretty quickly, leaving mostly ATF to try to penetrate. I've noticed other penetrants seem to be more like a thinner oil than ATF.

I need to get a good test subject to try again, but I wasn't very impressed the first time.

vince

[EastBayMitch]

I have a quick word of warning about the ATF-Acetone mixture.

Hexane/Acetone mixtures were pretty common as degreasers in recent history, but were phased out because of neurological problems caused by the metabolism of hexane. Hexane can't get into your body efficiently, but when it's dissolved in acetone, it passes through your skin much more easily. Therefore, you could potentially be increasing your risk to whatever is in ATF. Please use some protection when working with this stuff!

http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm5045a3.htm

(I just finished getting my PhD in chemistry and helped out with the green chemistry classes. A lot of toxicology info was given to us and I'm glad I can pass it along to people outside of the chemical world!)

[jerry]

an old seasoned 'gearhead', who's been around muscle cars since the 60's told me they used to use plain 'ol coca-cola squirted onto rusty nuts and bolts to free them up. he'd pour it into a squeeze bottle for dispensing.

i'm guessing the phosphoric acid in coke has something to do with attacking the rust.

[Napes]

I've used Kroil's products a lot and like them very much. I wish they'd also tested Wurth's RostOff, because I also have good results with it.

Bob Napier

[Fawudd]

This validates the very non-scientific experience of many years working on rusty cars. I've never used acetone or kroil, but I certainly agree that Liquid wrench beats PB blaster or WD40. However, WD40 is always in the garage for its all-purpose qualities (cleaner, lubricant, etc). Thanks for posting....

[Ian]

Another penetrant/rust preventer/dessert topping to consider is Gibbs Brand penetrating oil http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_dept.asp?dept_id=1&filterkey=gpo

I learned about this stuff from some metalshapers, and I love it. Just wish there was a local distributor for it, as the shipping is annoying.

Ian

[02Nut]

Another product is the CRC Freeze Off "sauce" - the stuff actually seems to work - used it on a few thoroughly corroded nuts & bolts without having to break out the Air tools.

http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/fzo.aspx

FWIW - The toxicity of the acetone in the ATF/Acetone mix kind of scares me. Having worked around "bio-hazard" chemicals like Acetone, MEK, Trichlor, etc., I learned to be very careful about being exposed to these chemicals in an uncontrolled environment (i.e. in my garage).

[Bimjam02]

along with the coca cola trick we use it at work on our boats to help remove salt corrosion on our stand pipe covers...we also use grape kool-aid to polish up our brass horns. both work really well actually