Jump to content

02Les

Kugelfischer
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,444

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by 02Les

  1. 02Les
    hehe. Remove driver seat. Lay something comfy on the floor, then on your back skinny up under the dash as far as you can go. Then with the aid of an inspection mirror, you should be able to see the back of the dash that's not masked by the dash support/bodywork. Getting the cluster out the first time is a bugger, but once you've done it the next time's not so bad.
  2. 02Les
    Yeah, right. Somewhat daunting if you have never done it before. Remove under dash panels, then working completely blind, snake your hand up behind the dash and try and feel the knurled knobs, and remove. Undo and pull back the speedo cable. Then gently pull the cluster out from the front of the dash, but only a little way so you can get your hand behind to remove the round multi wire plug (fits on the ring of connectors, right side of my pic). From memory, I believe there's another single wire to remove (tach?). Installation is reverse, and good luck like trying to get the speedo cable re-installed, it's a 10 second affair or 10 minutes.
  3. 02Les
    When I removed my sending unit (the one in the pic in my post below) the filter at the bottom of the unit had fallen off and the tube had slipped down to rest on the bottom of the tank. It did still work though. There's not much holding these things together.
  4. 02Les
    Not sure this will help you, but.........You should have an enclosed 3 connector sending unit like Juan's picture. However, your 2 connector one should (in theory) work but you would be, as you assumed, missing the low fuel warning. The terminal next to the outlet pipe is the ground (solid brown wire) and should be connected to the trunk floor. The wire that goes directly to the fuel gauge in the cluster is brown-yellow. The 3rd wire (brown-black) is for the low fuel warning (red light in cluster). Not sure if it matters which of the double terminals has the br-bl or the br-yellow wire. Pic below is how mine was connected before I stripped the car for refurb.
  5. 02Les
    FWIW - The car was for sale in CT in the Roundel Magazine back in 2002. The VIN noted as 4280471, but the Seller stated it was a tii.
  6. 02Les
    Wow, that's some garage! Looks like a Dealership. Save $1500 and get it on Craigslist. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/6022553750.html
  7. 02Les
    This one has now jetted to Jacksonville, FL. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-BMW-2-Series-2002-Tii-/172568667426?hash=item282de4e522:g:07oAAOSwuxFYwcab&vxp=mtr
  8. 02Les
    This is another one that's been for auction/for sale since early last year. Buying price has gradually decreased from $30k. Looks a lot better than the black one, but there must be something keeping buyers away.
  9. 02Les
    Well noted. The car has been on/off Ebay since the middle of last year. The car was previously/originally Granatröt, as could be seen in the earlier trunk pics. Seller has painted it over now.
  10. 02Les
    It was originally Verona. Sold for big money around 2010 in Pittsburgh, and also in 2012 in Ann Arbor.
  11. 02Les
    I can't imagine BMW painting the lights to match the car. Pretty sure they would have been silver(ish).
  12. 02Les
    According to my interpretation of the BMW Blue Parts Book The single hole manifold was used up to around mid 1972 (VIN 2532752 auto & 2583405 manual) from these VINs style 1 peanut manifold was used in USA. Style 2 peanut manifold used from Sep 1973 (VIN 4280000 M & 4220000 A) and a 3rd style for USA Model 75. Basically, a single hole manifold was always used on all Euros, although a peanut manifold was used on Euros, I think, only in 1975 and only for the 2002M & 2002A.
  13. 02Les
    So, who's selling this one in Austin? Terry? Not may around with a brown-black interior. My '74 is the only one I've seen with a tan interior. These things are popping up everywhere. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/bmw/2002/1903740.html?refer=blog
  14. 02Les
    Yes, I see now that Arminyack's box top is slimmer where the motor sits. Looks like he'll have to find a "late" box top to suit the motor.
  15. 02Les
    What Ray said......sorta. You need a set (4) of the later type clips. Probably one of the characters in the "for sale" section that has 5 of everything could help you attain.
  16. 02Les
    Who owns the Touring? In my 20 years in Texas I only saw one other Touring than mine; it also was an Inka 2000tii Touring owned by Rob Delk.
  17. 02Les
    As Simeon said, the one on Ebay is a LHD cyl. The Seller's location is France & what would they know for what's required in the UK! Below are pics of my Touring's RHD one and my '76's LHD one. Not even close to the same. The flange on a RHD one is at 45deg to the ports, not 90. Maybe the innards are the same, if so, it won't be a complete loss.
  18. 02Les
    If you put that part # (34 31 1 113 656) into Maximillian's Site, it shows it as correct for both LHD & RHD........go figure.
  19. 02Les
    It's tight shut both ways when I blow into it. I'll see if I can hook it up to the garden hose to try. I had to clear out a little crud at the ends of the slot in the cover plate, so that helped. Once the innards move a wee bit, flow will start. I have no clue if the "later" heath robinson style performs the same.
  20. 02Les
    Wow, the elusive electric choke switch.
  21. 02Les
    I beg to differ. I have the "all brass" valve and when it is closed nothing gets through. When you begin to open it, the slit appears and starts to let coolant through. I believe the slits (inlet & outlet sides) prevent a surge when opening the valve to save the Heater core from a shock pressure and likewise when closing to prevent a shock to the valve or whatever may be sensitive upstream.
  22. 02Les
    I honestly cannot remember where this came from. However, Practical Classics is still going strong. http://www.practicalclassics.co.uk
  23. 02Les
    Maybe if you add to your for sale post that you prefer to be PM'd........that would help. All interested parties will PM you and you will know who's first in line. As I'm old school, I too would be miffed if I replied first (on line) and found out you sold it later to someone who PM'd you (maybe after my post).
  24. 02Les
    There is an arrow on the valve, and it points (on mine) to the heater box. As both cables are attached to the same lever and length not adjustable, I don't think there's a choice of making the valve open or close differently to the flap.
  25. 02Les
    The poor thing has been for sale (mostly Ebay) for over 5 years by one Seller or another. The bidding usually ends around $13~14k
×
×
  • Create New...