eastsidebimmer

Join the Rivertown Gearbusters Facebook group and post a request there. Most of the guys/gals are in the KY/OH/IN area, some may be in Lexington.

My 68 2002 with production date of May 17, 1968 has a 6 fuse 12 volt system, but then again you are talking about 1600s. I'm not sure of the exact cut-over, but one way might be to look at the back of the clock as it will say 6v or 12v, unless however it was swapped out too. If you have a 12v clock with production date of 68, then it was probably a 12v car. If you get under the covers and see lots of resistors added to things then that would be a sign too. I'm sure it's a PITA to change everything over, so for someone to do it all, well, without evidence of modification would be difficult. If it's working, drive it!

Cool car! The Early Alloys & Lucas Square 8 driving lamps make this one sparkle. Good score!

If you are on an extreme budget Your best bet is to find a known good engine that's been pulled for a m20 or some other conversion. And 2k is not a bad price for a rebuilt engine. Crate motors are closer to 5k now from BMW. If you only have 500 to spend roll the dice on a used one and hope it runs.

Check out this ebay listing. It's been on several times. Make him an offer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261093210189

Your question is a little confusing, but this might help: http://www.2002parts.com/html/chrome_bumpers.html

Was there a PN for the US spec early flat lenses with the parking lamp bulbs that shut off with the headlamps on? This is what the catalog shows now, 63-13-1-351-629-is this PN only for the lens? This is how I wired the city lights on my 68, btw. Instead of removing the parking lamp wire, I ran a jumper to the city light and worked out beautifully.

Yeah, not sure this would work out for you:

Just checked, still a valid number. BMW list price is $58.97 each. Yes, CD - they were like $7 five years ago when I got my set. They are a very fine grade of tupperware, however. eeek.

I recently had the honor of spending some time with Scott and his Euro tii at the Carmel, IN Artomobilia. I received a personal tour and left with mucho ground strap and floor seek button envy. Very neat car and a great ownership story. Here are some pics of the long lost cousins at rest:

My 68 2002 had the worst of the worst early belts that were lap/shoulder but didn't use a center loop. I have now replaced them with belts by Al Bluedevils under the rear seat. They work great. My 71 1600 has the center loop style and they are also a pain in the ass. If you are thinking of buying a car and seatbelts are your top concern, get a 72 & up. Like others have mentioned, retrofitting anything is possible. Ben

Stephanie - I reviewed your pictures here and on eBay. I think Ivy has potential, but she has a long way to go. In general, there are a lot of nice things about your car, with the exception of the seat tears, the interior is very nice. It does need lots of body/prep work, especially on the roof and front lip and a decent respray to make it more presentable. Tack on new seals for the glass and probably door seals, better bumpers and "misc." and this is a real project. It would be very easy to put $7,500 to $10,000 in your car and it might be a $7,500 to $10,000 when finished. Some will disagree but the automatic trans does not help the value, but it does make it slightly easier for a 5 speed swap. I'm afraid you need to either punt and walk away at a large loss now or make a commitment to a partial restoration. I could be very wrong, but if you get an offer near your starting ebay price, I'd take it (if you REALLY need to sell) If it were my car and I enjoyed it--I would keep it, locate better bumpers, strip the exterior, sand and sand like there is no tomorrow and then take it to a quickie paint job place (Maaco) and have them patch the nose and throw on a coat of green. Once you sort out the seat cushions and trunk items, and re-install all the brightwork and glass, you'd be left with a fun driver and not need to worry about total perfection. I think you could make it a more presentable daily driver for ~$2K. Hope this info helps and good luck with whatever your decision becomes. Ben

I contemplated doing the same with my recent resto, but the later sill plates did not cover the carpeting like the early ones did. IIRC, the later plates had a built in lower door seal, and if I used them, I would have needed to remove the original door seal section which was in good shape. I scrapped the idea.

Hi Dave, I registered before Midnight Central, shirt registration option was already gone--Any chance I can still get a shirt order in? I'm bringing the Chamonix 68 this year--it's done! Thank you, Ben

Hagerty and other similar companies are extremely competitive on rate because they limit their risk. It's a numbers game--Let's face it, most people with a collector car bring it out once in a while to knock the dust off and the exposure to risk is fractional compared to the other 365 days a year. Daily driving a 40 year old car with a new driver behind the wheel is far more risky to insure so, #1 they won't take you and #2, the liklihood of an accident is very high and #3, the medical risk is high due to substandard (for 2012) vehicle protection systems/SRS/ABS/Traction Control, etc. I considered myself a good teen driver back in the day and still wrecked my mom's Ford twice. They both were not my fault, but had I learned real world avoidance techniques taught now by the Street Survival program I'm sure I would have avoided both collisions 100% My advice is go to your standard insurance AGENT and get the car insured for an agreed upon value. Classify the car as pleasure only, low miles, and it may make sense to not have your child listed as the primary driver. My other advice to anyone with teen driver's they care about is to pay for a $75 gift registration and get them to a Tire Rack Street Survival School in their area. http://streetsurvival.org/

Please post detailed pictures here or in a remote photo album with links for us and we can better offer opinions. My early vote is to buy a winter beater for 750 each fall and sell it each spring and keep your 2002 dream alive.

If you end up needing a new motor, I have a used 5 pin available from a 72--untested but was removed from a parted car 20+ years ago.

I think the style pictured in your original post looks the best with a stock bumper configuration. Most of these I see used are cracked or have condition issues. It's best to buy new so you start with the best quality part and can make modifications as necessary for your particular application. Also when you eventually get chips, etc you don't see used Inca under fresh Agave, etc. Also, since you are drilling holes in your front apron, make doubly sure you will be happy with the look long term. good luck!