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eastsidebimmer

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  1. eastsidebimmer
    My advice would be to insure it for at least 15k. My rear end hit came in at about ~14k and my agreed upon value was only 12k I had the good fortune of the other company paying my claim in full, but not everyone gets this lucky. Once you get it sorted call them up and ask to have it increased. They won't say no. And yes, Hagerty is awesome.
  2. eastsidebimmer
    If you are down to a shell, take a look at this: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/27/32/ If you buy Bluedevil's kit, use something like the "peacock method" available via forum search.
  3. eastsidebimmer
    I recently used the door board kit and it really worked out nicely for my 68. One bit of advice & caution for anyone planning to use the kit. I was re-installing late at night and whacked the lower panel to seat the clips but the door card was off just slightly. I fractured/exploded four of the new green clips and unfortunately they don't come out once the tab A is gone--there is no give in the new boards and nothing much to grab onto to twist them out. I had to chip away at them for a long time with various pics and knives (while not puncturing the outer vinyl) to get them out--so my advice is start re-installing at the top and sides then lay on your back, look up and be sure the clips go right into the holes then pop them in one at a time.
  4. eastsidebimmer
    Grill Badgers Gone Wild
  5. eastsidebimmer
    For anyone looking for green glass to complete a set, I have a rear window/ non defroster, two rear popout rear windows, one door glass, (need to verify R or L) and both complete front vent window assemblies. All parts were from a 72.
  6. eastsidebimmer
    Joe - A few of us are interested in the specs/part numbers on your new steering wheel. Looking for info on a USA dealer or importer. Thank you, -Ben
  7. eastsidebimmer
    I have an eastwood mini-kit. For about $35 you get a gun, hose, metal tube and a 10lb tub of media. I used it on several cleanup projects on my recent restoration. It does make a mess, but its baking soda so who cares right? I wore a respirator and a face shield as the soda has a tendency to bounce back at your face on detail work. This unit from HF below basically does the same thing but includes a bucket and no soda. I buy my soda from HF for about $35 for the 50 pound bag. For infrequent use on small parts, this basic setup should work OK for most people. Just remember, this is not a sandblaster. Don't expect to remove rust.
  8. eastsidebimmer
    I kind-of like it with this faceplate--without it it sort of looks like my alarm-clock I had in 1986. I purchased some simple looking 4x6 speakers from this same manufacturer as they were thin and didn't have stupid looking woofers and tweeters. I'm installing them in the underdash panels with flat E28 grilles. Looks reasonably stealth. Still planning to use a Blaupunkt stereo w/ Ipod DIN hookup. Low to medium fidelity is ok for my needs.
  9. eastsidebimmer
    I'm 36 and my cars are 44 and 41.
  10. eastsidebimmer
    Yikes. Use an online system to quote the cost of new parts when available, Build out a spread sheet and give it to the adjuster or appraiser. Skip the paint/body as its an unknown. The front clip for example is still available new and won't have any rust to eradicate. For any part that is NLA, call someone like 2002ad and get a cost of a clean used component. Aardvark lists the prices on rechromed bumpers on his site (dont forget to add the core charge)
  11. eastsidebimmer
    JOE - Awesome Wheel. Can you share with me the part numbers for the wheel, the hub and where you found the horn button? From looking at your blog it looks like you got your wheel from Lenkradshop.de but I'd like to find a supplier closer to me here in the US. Thank you.
  12. eastsidebimmer
    Ive seen this as a common practice on cheap auto parts hoses that I've purchased for my old fords and hondas. After a second look, I doubt they poked the hose personally, this doesn't look like a factory BMW supplied part--I think that was added by the manufacturer or wholesaler for rack hanging. I guess the bigger question is; did you pay the "Genuine BMW" part price and get an "OEM equivalent" from worldpac of unknown origin or quality?
  13. eastsidebimmer
    Email sent!!
  14. eastsidebimmer
    I sent an email on Friday. Did you receive it? Thanks, Ben
  15. eastsidebimmer
  16. eastsidebimmer
    Mike, it's not like you to part with parts...are you feeling OK?
  17. eastsidebimmer
    Me loves me some early cars....would love to see more of this beauty.
  18. eastsidebimmer
    Ray, here is another one--I think it was from Land's End a few years ago...those are Opel Kadet Rallye wheels. Feel free to add it to your blog.
  19. eastsidebimmer
    Awesome, but one question: are those mannequins? Looks like they need to eat some lunch.
  20. eastsidebimmer
    Hi Jerry, I just did this on my 68 when I pulled and refurbished my cluster....which was a real cluster by the way. If I recall, I had to position the left bank of switches to an left angle to get the wires to clear and yes it was a tight fit. Try pulling any extra available slack on the harness first, get the binnacle in position and loosely tighten the rear mounting nuts, get the switches mounted then plug in and install the cluster. Gently pull the slack from behind on the loom while you push from the front, (don't go too far) Tighten down the binnacle and cluster, double check to make sure gauges are working, tach wire is on, bulbs are all lit and call it job done. 2005 BEFORE 2012 AFTER
  21. eastsidebimmer
    My awesome donor seats have a little flaw....the driver's seat cushion has been apart in the past for vinyl replacment and it looks like the seat back catch/release had been broken and replaced. After my recent trip, it broke again. I noticed that the width of this part is much smaller than that of the other side, the passenger seat or my spare/parts passenger seat as pictured below. I think I'll take the opportunity to have my local upholstery shop add some extra padding and take the seat apart but my question is: should I have them weld this obviously too narrow piece back on or cut a larger tab off of my donor seat and have it welded on? I also could swap the seat cushion frame but it was from the passenger side and I don't know if it's interchangeable. If anyone has done this or has an option, please render! Thank you! -Ben
  22. eastsidebimmer
    I'm pleased to report that the 71 & Up Euro front bumper bars work 100% on an early 2002 or 1600. Here is a pic of them installed on my 68 2002. So, now you know...they are a direct fit replacement and are still only about $20 a piece.
  23. eastsidebimmer
    FYI- I just installed Euro 71 & up front bumper bars on my 68 and they were a perfect fit. They are still available from Blunt or BMW dealer, are 100% straight and painted, ready to go. BAR LEFT 51 11 1 815 493 BAR RIGHT 51 11 1 815 494
  24. eastsidebimmer
    If you can commit to a bare metal respray I say do whatever you like. The color is too intense for me, but I have a white car and a beige car, so there you go. If you are at all interested in resale value (some are not) then I'd paint it the same color as original. I personally would not purchase a color change car unless it was done 100% correctly, but that's just my opinion.
  25. eastsidebimmer
    IE Stage I - $225. I studied the stance thread, thought about my needs and landed on the HD Stage I combo with 2 dot rear spring pads. I really like it. http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-suspension-steering/02iesprings1.html Here's my 68 on 185/70/13s with about 100 pounds of gear in the boot.
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