dapbmw

pat, thew 1502 and early 1600 have a lot of parts in common, the front brakes are similar both single line and you can get the caliper rebuild kits from any parts dealer, tell 'em it is for a 1502/1600. the clutch disc and plate is similar too except the 1502 is hydraulic. the brake mc cylinder from the 1502 will bolt directly on your 1600. you can also use an e21 brake caliper and disc better stopping power. see pics of 1502 clutch kit cheers, dave

Yes I have dealt with him a lot of times over the years. I always get the parts I needed at a good price. I have not been in touch with him for the last 3 years. I am surprised that he did not ship you the parts you bought from him, he was never liked that with me. Anyway you may want to get a hold of some guys in the 02 club deutschland who know him and they might be able to help you out.

btw you need to use a dbilas side draft manifold too to make sure it clears as the other brands of manifolds are longer.

an m30 tranny will bolt on an m10 block, you may want to look for ones from a 1985 e23/e24/e28 or early e12/e24 from 1978-1981 CR5 speeds, you may or may not have to replace the input shaft. i know the ones from an '85 which is one with the removable bell housing will bolt on to an S14 and m10

Guys, The meet is on Sunday June the 22nd. The '02 guys from the Toronto- NY (Buffalo-Rochester area) club will be there from 11 am to 5pm. Let me know if any of you '02 guys are coming. http://mosport.com/vintage08.htm Putting the "Can" back in Can-Am, the Vintage Racing Association of Canada (VARAC) and Mosport International Raceway have announced that Mosport's 4 kilometre road course will feature the classic Can-Am sports cars during the 29th Annual VARAC International Vintage Racing Festival. The original Canadian American Challenge Cup Series (1966-74) was one of North America's greatest road racing series ever. Mosport hosted more Can-Am races than any other track. It held at least one race every year during the series run (except 1968) and was the scene of many memorable Can-Am battles. These races featured a veritable "who's who" of the biggest names in motorsports history. Drivers from the ranks of sports cars, Formula 1 and NASCAR all competed in Can-Am: Mario Andretti, Jack Brabham, A.J. Foyt, Dan Gurney, Jim Hall, Denny Hulme, Parnelli Jones, Bruce McLaren, Peter Revson, Jody Schecter, Jackie Stewart, John Surtees and the list goes on. In addition, VARAC and Mosport will honour the Fiftieth Anniversary of Lola Cars during this year's Vintage Festival. A Lola from each race group will be selected for a special award based on preparation, history, and paddock presentation. Additionally there will be a Lola parade lap, Lola group photo and a display of the stunning T70 MK2 Spyder Continuation car. With the anticipation of Can-Am thunder again rumbling up the Mario Andretti straight, the VARAC Vintage International Festival promises to be one of the highlights of the 2008 Mosport season. The excitement is not limited to Can-Am- the schedule also includes a 50th Anniversary Austin Healey Sprites race, an MG Feature for the Simms Cup, a German Manufacturer's Challenge Race (featuring historic Porsches, BMWs, Audis and others), plus races for all classes of Vintage and Historic Cars. Large fields (50 cars or more) are anticipated for many of these classes. The classic sports cars of the Can-Am Series headline the 29th International Vintage Racing Festival at Mosport, June 20-22.

you can go turbo or alpina style. they are both available on the faq store. if you are referring to the early minis they are smaller so it will not look right on an '02.

some '02 guys spend insane amounts of money to buy old rare (alpina, schnitzer, gs tuning, heidegger, albert, etc...) speed parts which may need $$$$ to restore or to get it working right. at least dbilas parts are brand new and it does work right out of the box!

you are better of buying from your dbilas dealer in holland. unfortunately the us dollar has weakened against the euro for now. so everything seems so steep for us here. unless someone wins the lottery!

check 'em out. support the site by buying from the faq store!

side drafts are like that when cold, it would help if you warmed up the car for about 5 mins, or install a choke cable on the carbs and use the choke when you start it and you will be surprised that it starts right up and has smooth idle, once the engine has warmed up push the choke back to closed position and drive. depending on you engine mods, you may want to switch to colder plugs if your engine is heavily modified or hotter plugs if stock. i think bosch plugs have the numbers as w7dc colder? w8dc hotter? or vice versa. and ngk would be bp5 or bp6.

FYI! BMW 4-cyl. 1.5 - 2.0 (M 10) Part No.: 04.040.014 Application: Road Turbo 280 - duration 112 - peak timing 9,5 - valve lift 1,6 - lift at tdc 28/72 - 72/28 - Valve timing IO/IC - EO/EC 20/20 - valve clearance 266.89 - price in euros multiply by 1.6 6) 63.100.001 - sport valve sping set part # 156.58 - price in euros Part No.: 04.040.001 Application: Road 284 110 9,5 2,0 32/72 - 72/32 20/20 266.89 6) 63.100.001 156.58 Part No.: 04.040.002 Application: Sport 292 110 10,0 2,6 36/76 - 76/36 20/20 266.89 --- 6) 63.100.001 156.58 Part No.: 04.040.003 Application: Sport 300 106 10,5 2,6 44/76 - 76/44 20/20 266.89 --- 6) 63.100.001 156.58 Part No.: 04.040.004 Application: Sport 300 108 11,3 3,5 42/78 - 78/42 25/25 266.89 --- 6) 7) 63.100.001 156.58 Part No.: 04.040.005 Application: Sport 304 108 10,7 2,9 44/80 - 80/44 25/25 266.89 --- 6) 7) 63.100.001 156.58 Part No.: 04.040.010 Application: Rally 310 110 10,2 1,8 45/85 - 85/45 25/25 296.55 --- 6) 63.100.001 156.58 Part No.: 04.040.006 Application: Rally 312 106 10,3 4,9 50/82 - 82/50 25/25 326.20 --- 6) 63.100.001 156.58 Part No.: 04.040.007 Application: Rally 316 105 11,1 3,9 53/83 - 83/53 25/25 326.20 --- 6), 8), 9) 63.100.002 206.40 Part No.: 04.040.008 Application: Rally 316/304 104 11,0/10,7 3,9/2,9 54/82 - 76/48 25/25 338.07 --- 6), 8), 9) 63.100.002 206.40 Part No.: 04.040.012 Application: Rally / Oval track 324 100 11,2 62/82 - 82/62 25/25 367.72 --- 6), 8), 9) 63.100.002 206.40 Part No.: 04.040.013 Application: Oval track 328 100 12,0 5,6 64/84 - 84/64 25/25 367.72 --- 6), 8), 9) 63.100.002 206.40 Part No.: 04.040.009 Application: Rally / Oval track 328/316 100 12,2/11,2 5,5 64/84 - 78/58 25/25 367.72 --- 6), 8), 9) 63.100.002 206.40 Part No.: 04.040.015 Application: Oval track 336/328 100 12,3/12,0 5,9 68/88 - 84/64 25/25 367.72 --- 6), 8), 9) 63.100.002 206.40 Part No.: 04.040.011 Application: Oval track 342 102 11,8 4,6 69/93 - 93/69 25/25 367.72 --- 6), 8), 9) 63.100.002 206.40

Wow that is an early airbox which was for the NK. i haver never seen them installed on an 02 or 1600, you are missing the top piece plus the filter element. even the steering wheel is an early one like from the late 60's i have some old pics which i still have to look for.

the part you are referring to is the water outlet, you need a ti/tii or 320i water outlet without the nipple on the side, you can also cut the nipple and jb weld it.

the first one is a 71-73 us spec bumper. the one on the turbo is a euro spec with the license plate lights on the bumper, the early 67-69 us spec bumper is similar but does not have the license plate lights on the bumper

email sent

what year tii do you have? which of the tii bits do you still have left? anyway try to set your timing to a little bit advance it should reduce or eliminate the bog down.

you did not post all of your jet and choke specs. before you blame the carbs, is your timing right on? valves adjusted right? properly? distributor, ignition and fuel pump working ok? make sure your floats and needle valves are in good condition. if not replace them. there might be also some dirt on the internal passges or the jets themselves? to set your floats right the wet method is better. drive the car for a bit then park in a level spot and turn off the engine. remove the jet inspection cover and remove one of the main jet holders with the emulsion tube and jets. use a 1.5 or 2" finishing nail and slowly lower it to the hole till the nail hits the fuel/gas .now measure from the base on the top of the carb to where the fuel hits the nail. make a notch on the top of the nail or paint it so you get an accurate reading. it should be 25mm +/-1mm. if not within that range adjust it. for accelerator pump jet 40 or 45 is ideal and for the needle valves 200 or 225 is ok. now there is also a simple fix for the bogging, try plugging the fuel bowl valves shut, this sometimes remedies the problem.

google cbperformance they are the dell'orto distributor in the usa based in cali

ebay cahsel walloth netsch maxmillian

sounds like a grounding problem. add a thick ground wire from the engine block to the body. you have to do this as otherwise your throttle pedal and rod will act as the ground.

go to the faq store click on member developments, then click on fiberglass, then click on the turbo airdam, then click on check out then you will get an email from the faq store. support the site buy from the faq store.

if it is a manual tranny one then take the close ratio 5 speed and put it on your tii. you wiil need to enlarge your tranny tunnel though.

overlaps the lower valance. screws or rivets.

they both have a turbo spoiler the yellow one just added a lip on the bottom home made. the turbo spoiler is available from the faq store here in the site

the faq store sells copies of alpina and turbo spoilers