John76

Oh...where to connect (not where is it). Sorry!
The Green/white wires are in the blue bundle that snake through the engine bay from the fuse #12
See attached sketch of the wiring pathway.
 

It's the plug for the wiper motor.

Compress the slave to allow easy cleaning of the seat on the lever arm and the ball socket inside the bellhousing. 
Coat these contact areas with a heavy grease. I even added vinyl tubing on the spring ends thinking was a source of the annoying "click" when releasing the clutch. Amazingly smooth and silent now!
I lived with that "click" for years assuming it was the slave cylinder on its last leg (or rod?).
 

 

 
 

Not used for anything. 
I put plugs on any unused holes just to keep the dirt out.
The bottom arrow in your photo is an internal fuel filter screen...not often cleaned, although it should be.
 

 

Threw the calipers on it .... inches.
 

It's a clock ... unless you have it powered by the ignition switch...then it's a Hobbs meter.  😁

That is the Solex air cleaner rubber seal.
Search for Solex 2-barrel carb parts or the original air cleaner (used).
John

I believe the ignition switch is the same for all years.
Here is a map.  Wire colors and fuses may have changed (to protect the innocent).
 

Scott,
Do the rear side markers, license plate lights and right rear parking light work?
Fuse #8 OK? Headlight switch connections good?
Hope this helps you find the problem.
John

 

Easy to do (green wire in photo). Try it...you'll like it!
 

 

It's a plastic piece that I "think" is part of the door card.
 

Nah...Not on the square tail cars!
Remove the screw from the back and give it a little twist & pull.  Don't ruin your dummy knob!
 

Toothpick
 

There is a small wire clip that holds the cup on the throttle rod to the ball socket on the carb.
Look closely and you will see the hole in the side of the cup.
 
John
 

'74-'76 US carb models had to reduce compression to comply with the emission requirements. Lower compression lowered combustion temperatures which reduced NOX. The two-stage EGR systems also cooled the intake charge.
8.1:1 is the specified CR for "most" '74-'76, but some had 8.3:1 with the E-12 head. All had "baby grand" domed pistons except the 49-state '76 with the E-21 head had flat-top pistons. The CR difference with the domed piston cars is the recess between the top of the piston and the head. No recess = 8.3:1. Recess = 8.1:1.  Additional emission controls (air injection, thermal reactor, advance/retard distributor) determined the presence or absence of "the recess".
Your stock '74 came with a regular exhaust manifold with no air injection, 2-stage EGR, and possibly a vacuum retard distributor.
Sooo ... my semi-educated guess would be 8.1:1 for your '74 US spec manual car.
 
John

Here's a sketch of the ignition circuit for a '76. Should be similar to your '73, with the exception of the resistor wire instead of the external resistor and relay used on the earlier cars.
 

Attached is a sketch of the emissions system for all '75 (50-state) cars and the '76 California cars.
Your '74 car did not have an air pump, diverter valve, or check valve for air injection. It did have the same EGR system that continued with the '75 cars (and the Calif. '76). Those two dome-shaped electro-valves in your first picture controlled the vacuum to the EGR control valve (the red hoses) and the vacuum to the throttle dashpot (the white hoses). You don't need these if your smog stuff is gone.
The original '74 distributor had only vacuum retard, so disregard the black electro-valve controlling the vac. advance in my sketch.
The single black wire with connector in your picture #2 normally connects to the Coil (-) terminal. The other end goes to the Speed Relay located on the firewall behind the brake booster. Not needed since you don't have the white electro-valve or the dashpot. Your speed relay can also be removed but make sure the wire terminals are wrapped with tape to prevent grounding. See attached sketch of the dashpot.
The two black wires to the female connector near the distributor is the original black wire to the Coil (-) and the Tach. This plugged into the distributor condenser/points. If the brown wire is actually brown...it is a ground and may have connected to the #85 terminal on the choke relay. If it is Brown/green, then it is for the oil pressure switch. If it is Brown/black, it connects to the EGR relay terminal #85.
The green wire with small black connector is probably Green/blue (look closely). If so, it connected to the thermo-start valve on the original Solex carb and is not needed.
 

 

Wow did I get this wrong!
I lost sleep over the differences between what I listed and what you responded with. Your connections are correct! 
Duh!!!  R = Blue/black for the Right turn signal lights.  L = Blue/red for the Left lights.  30 is +12V, 15 is switched +12V.
And, what I thought was the 87 terminal is actually 49!  I must have read it upside-down (hidden under the resistor) when I sketched this switch in my younger days....probably 1976 when I installed my gauges.
Sorry for the misinformation!!  I'm much older now, but not that much wiser.
John
 
PS: I got 2 out of 8 right (#31 and #49).....but 25% is still a grade "F" ☹️
 

 

See my attached scribble.
The metal line that runs under the driver's side is the fuel return line (for carb models) or the fuel supply line for Tiis.
The plastic lines that you removed running through the cabin were for  (1) the fuel supply from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump, and  (2) the vent line from the vapor tank in the trunk to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. You need to properly vent your tank if #2 items are removed. 
 

The short neck pumps can be rebuilt. Long necks cannot.
I'm sure you have checked the tightness of the screws and the condition of the gasket.
Another place to look is the pressed-in brass spigots for input and output. These have been known to slip out....not good if it's the output barb.
 

Weber or Solex?
 
If Weber 32/36, then there is a very small clip that holds the vertical rod to the bottom lever.