JohnS

My theory is that the little amount of fuel got sloshed around in the tank and some crud made it's way into the screen.  On my car, if I added fuel it would run great and then stall after being warmed up.  The problem was that after a period of time the fuel pickup screen would getting totally plugged.  Let the car rest for a while and then it would run.  Solution:  clean out crud in tank, replace or clean filters and screen in fuel intake.  Hope that helps

This came in from West OZ (Perth).  ebay ad said it was for a Holden.  Neat little kit...

I'd check the screen in the fuel pickup...

+1 for recommending BimmerBouk.  I purchased a steering wheel from him and am very satisfied.

Got these old relays off of ebay from Australia.  Thought the history of our cars sharing parts with the Aussie cars was interesting. The ebay ad is cool I think:

“These are new never been used they are old parts that have come out of the Holden plant in Dandenong in the early 70s”

GENUINE VINTAGE BOSCH STEEL RELAY 12V 30A P/N 0332014406 Pack off 6

Product Description
 
BOSCH PART No:   0332014406
VOLTAGE: 12V
NUMBER OF PINS 4
AMP 30A
 
These relays were used by Holden and Ford back in the late 60s and early 70s on their vehicles that they manufactured here in Australia.
These relays a new never been used perfect for any collector looking to put original parts on their car.
Manufactured in Germany by Bosch

Please look at photos carefully

Ferntree Gully, VIC, Australia
 

On 6/17/2023 at 8:59 PM, Mike Self said:

My 73 has been running exactly where yours is for many years.   It has a 3 row core radiator, 80 degree thermostat, and an A/C condenser ahead of the radiator.  And my gauge was properly grounded many years ago.   I believe it would run more at 3 o'clock if I had a 76 degree 'stat.  

Same on my 73tii except no AC.  I added the 80 degree thermostat after doing the 3 core radiator because it was running too cool with a 76 degree 'stat.  The tii warm up regulator needs a certain amount of heat, but I digress...

Went for a Father's Day drive on one of my favorite local backroads...

My wife always jokes when a package arrives that "it's a miracle!".  I told her to expect a "heavy miracle" yesterday...

Thank you AceAndrew!  It's a beauty!

Check the gasket around the fuel sender and also the clamps on the rubber boot between the gas tank and where you fill er up.  The rubber boot can become brittle and leak.  Leaking around fuel sender is common and easily fixed with the proper new rubber gasket .

30 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

That line should be connected to the air filter canister. 

+1 on that.  At least on the '73 and '74 US models.  Probably only on '73 and later US tiis.  I have a different tii air box that is missing that little pipe for connecting the fuel vapor hose.  I assume it must be either an early tii air box, or a euro one. 

My latest batch of CN36's were made in Argentina, prior ones in Turkey.  Both sets have been great

1 hour ago, visionaut said:

 

Not. You’d know if you bought solid-core plug wires (not generally available for 02s, typically fabbed to suit, and used for racing only).

Good to know having just purchased a new stock 7mm set of wires from Kingsborne.  I undid one of their wires and appears to be spiral wound copper.  I know Kingborne also offers 8mm, but I tried it before and don't see the need on my relatively stock cars.  Shows how much I know about wires.  Their wires seem to be good quality though.  Thanks

I noticed that even with the Igniter I they have a WARNING in the instructions:  "Do not use solid core spark plug wires".  Does anyone know if the stock wire sets (with resistor boots) from Kingsborne are solid core or not?  I've been using the Kingsborne wires along with Igniter I's on both of my cars for well over 15 years without any issues.

Sadly this.  I wonder what percentage of a new Ford or Chevy truck is made in China these days?  I sure do love my Chinese made iPhone though 😆

I laughed when I noticed this the other day.  The lucky resistor

I've had the 1st generation Pertronix in both of my cars for over 15 years and they haven't skipped a beat.  I guess with the newer Pertronix, the fact that it can handle more current is a plus?  I recon you must get a hotter spark by bypassing the resistor when using the Igniter II which can handle less total resistance than the Igniter I?  By bypassing the resister, do you ever have to worry about overloading the coil?  It sounds like the 123 folks always bypass the resistor and use a Bosch "red" coil and I haven't heard of any coils overheating or exploding, so I guess it isn't really an issue?  I've always wondered about that...

Done with that sucker.  The most expensive relay I ever bought...

All for looks?  Ha! 😆 This baby is solid.  I filled it with epoxy before sealing it up.  I think it weighs 1/3 of the weight of my coil.  Solid!

Problem solved.  I converted that 3-pole relay into a 4-pole.  I carefully pried open the little canister and then set a new Bosch general purpose relay in place and encased it all in epoxy.  JB Weld is my friend.

PM sent

3 hours ago, Mike Self said:

 Admittedly the Delta box is somewhat smaller, but the Tiger unit would still fit.

 

mike

I had wondered about that.  Good to know that the older Delta boxes are smaller.  I really don't feel like drilling any holes in my car, but good to know how most folks mount them. 

Did you run yours with a ballast resistor and the matching coil or bypass it?

Thank you,

John

I think the only issue you might run into is whether the spaced calipers will work with your wheels or not.  Especially if you're using 13" wheels.

2 hours ago, Rich said:

OK John S, so I got to ask, how much for the NOS 3 pole horn relay, please, and it would replace this one pictured, ? This past weekend I just replaced the voltage regulator and re did some of the wiring. 

 

Hi Rich,

  I couldn't get the three pole relay to work on my '73.  I tried as John76 suggested with switching the wiring, but it didn't work and I just swapped back to the 4-pole relay which matches my original wiring.  I think you also have a 4-pole relay on your car, so that's what you need, not the 3-pole one.  The square one that I found on ebay was oddly enough original equipment on Polaris Snowmobiles back in the day it seems.  Weird.  Got it from some guy up in Minnesota (Blunt land).  You can find them on ebay.  But $$'s 😒

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165858301843

I'm with you popovm on the design, it reminded me of the old Esso slogan. 

An ebay relic that I rescued.  I've always seen Mike Self mention these.  Kinda cool, but where did most folks mount the fairly large box?  

Do I need it on my stock car?  Probably not.  Would it make a difference since I already run a Pertronix?  Probably not.  Still makes for a cool vintage piece.  A Flux Capacitor!

It's hip to be square so will use the square one.  Anyone out there with an early car looking for a nice NOS 3 - pole horn relay, hit me up.  I'll make a deal better than even Deal'n Dave 😁