JohnS

I purchased one of those new Hella horn relays from ebay only to realize that it only has three pins vs. the 4 pins on my original horn relay.  I found a good substitute for the old round one though.  I used an old square style BOSCH 0 332 003 017 relay instead.  It has the same mounting as the original round one.  It's the same as used to bypass the ballast resistor on my '73.  Wanted to be safe so used the square 4 pin style (actually 5 pin because it has the dual 87 outputs).  Could the three pin one be used on a car that expects the 4 pins?  If so, how would you wire it?  New square one works great and mounts to the original holes.  Thanks,

John

Go Team Innova! 😄

19 hours ago, John76 said:

Installed a Solid-State Voltage Regulator

I used a Hella 5DR 004 243-041 that I used on my '78 BMW motorcycle.

My original Bosch VR (0 190 601 006) was only charging at 13.6 V on a good day.

What a difference!  Now charging steadily at 14.0 to 14.2V.

BTW ... your VR does not have to be grounded to the chassis. The alternator body does, with a good 10 or 12-gauge wire.

 

 

Those Hella solid state voltage regulators work great.  I've never seen a blue one before.  I've got a black one on my '74.  I did a test of various brands of new external voltage regulators a few years ago and the Bosch units even when new were set to regulate to around 13 volts or so.  The ones from Hella were set to a higher output voltage 14+.  I even played around with an adjustable one made by Transpo.  It's also solid state and encased in epoxy like the Hella ones, but has a little adjustment screw on the bottom where you can adjust the output voltage to where you want it.  It works great, but doesn't look so great in my grubby engine bay, too shiny 😄 By now most folks have moved on into the modern era of internally regulated alternators so probably could care less, but I love fiddlin' with this old stuff...

EDIT:  Went looking in my collection and found another interesting older voltage regulator from BMW made by WEHRLE.  Not sure if it's also solid state or not.  Most likely an OEM part for an old BMW Motorcycle.

I suffered a low speed rear impact on my '74 back in the 80's and those big bumpers saved my car from being totaled.  The low speed impact collapsed two of the three rear bumper shocks and I ended up having to get new ones because we couldn't fix the collapsed ones.  They did their job.  Good luck,

John

Does a 2K clear coat ever yellow over time?  I had a yellowing problem with Wurth's clear coat, so that's why I don't use a clear coat anymore.

I've been liking VHT High Temp Wheel paint.  Ford Argent Silver #SP188 without any additional clear coat.  Readily available...

Just picked up another batch of parts from Powder Coating.  Had the original valve cover on my '73 done in an aluminum color and the '73 tii air box done in a semi-gloss satin black.  Done by Powder Coat It in Capitola CA.  I'm stoked on it!  I saw that on the inside of the valve cover it has the little 73 circle with two nubs, so I guess that means it's officially 50 years old.   Both look new now, both looked like crap before.

I always liked that wheel because it's 380mm.  

I bought the full Dinan suspension package for my car a long time ago and it has a 22mm bar up front.  I believe those Dinan packages were made for Dinan by Suspension Techniques.

Here's a link to a post from when I rebuilt my heater box back in 2014.  It shows the little panhead stainless screws, washers and nylock locknuts I used.  They worked great.  Hope it helps

I rescued a nice example of an older "black" 0.9 Ohm coil.  It's not that old as it's made in Brazil, but it's older than the silver canister ones made today.  I think it's pretty cool for the car that needs it.

Bosch Part #0 221 119 021

BMW Part #12 13 1 357 294

3 hours ago, visionaut said:

I believe picture 2 is correct John..,🙃

I think I dun did it... 

The old ones I removed weren't really old, but were repros made out of let's say a substandard rubber-like material.  Those ones reacted with the normal Wurth weather strip glue and turned into a sticky mess.  They've been on my car for a few years.  Now replaced with new good ones from W & N.  The sticky ones will be thrown away...

You could probably just paste in a little extra piece of closed cell foam to cover that.  Like that light gray self adhesive camper shell foam from Home Depot.

At least the side pieces are idiot proof and can only be installed one way.  I'm doing it today on my car and I'm an idiot 😄

I'm still waiting to check the larger hood seal on my '74.  I suspect it's installed like the one on John76's car.  The jury is still out on what "backwards" is or not...

5 hours ago, wegweiser said:

@TobyB

 

they don't call me "Paul the Hantavirus hunter" for nothing. All my own cars are like this, though that core photo was a customer car from 2019.

Those east coast rats must be gnarly.  Where I live in Central Cal we've got wood rats that don't seem that bad.  This is why I support the preservation of Hawks and Owls, and Cats...

Made me look.  I must have got lucky when I replaced mine years ago...

On 5/7/2023 at 4:47 PM, 2002iii said:

That's gotta be the shiniest most polished original distributor I've ever seen!

Here's a couple more examples of Jeff Schlemmer's work.  He did the two with the black caps for me.  I'm about to send off the 002 with the red cap to Advanced Distributors to have Jeff do his magic on it even though it's new old stock and never been used.  I'll have it curved just like the 008 for a stock tii engine like I have in my cars.

On 5/5/2023 at 7:32 PM, 2002#3 said:

Today, I received a tii distributor I sent to Dave at Advanced Distributors for a rebuild.  He customized the distributor for my M10 engine rebuild project (a little more displacement than stock; 10-10.5 CR; 292 cam).  That sucker's as clean as a Safeway chitlin.

 

Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors does do excellent work.  I'm surprised that he let you keep the electronic trigger and didn't force you back to using points.  😄

Do you know whether your "tii" still has the big bearing struts on it or not?  The stock tii spindles?  That's important

I rescued this old red coil from the clutches of a Mercedes owner on eBay.  These old coils are still out there.  This is one of the nicest ones I've ever found.

Doing my duty.  Rescuing parts for the good of the 2002 community. ☺️

15 hours ago, Alexander said:

Cardiff by the Sea !!!!

I remember the good ole days when the Cardiff Reefers band played a lot in Santa Cruz.  They were really good.

On topic, whenever I'm looking for original 4-speed transmissions, I always try to find a '76.  I figure it's the last ones they made, so have the least miles on them.  Also they have the fine splined output shaft.  The '76 body shells also are the latest and likely to have less rust.  All pluses in my book.  Some  day California will make the '76's smog exempt and everyone will be hunting for them... 

Two successful transplants were performed today.   A couple tips:

• The spacer tubes were stuck on both the WURs I rebuilt.  I used a little right angled pick to yank them out of the WUR body.
• A toothbrush works good for cleaning out the tube.  It's amazing what a plastic brush and dishwashing liquid can do.
• Harbor Freight makes a nice little T-Handled 2mm hex key

Thanks again to all who made this happen,

John

+1 on silicone grease.  

2 hours ago, mgben said:

I was looking for @jgerock post about his hidden amp setup. 

In essence leave your radio as a period correct item, then use a bluetooth amp for your music.

He used a nice Kenwood  https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Q7YNb6E16TQ/p_113M1824BT/Kenwood-KAC-M1824BT.html

In my vintage MGB I used a Pyle watersports / 4 wheeler amp setup with a hardwired input (before bluetooth took the market).

For not much money you could try feeding your signal into this or just use the bluetooth

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Auto-4-Channel-Marine-Amplifier/dp/B072LDM7N6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=25T9X65P0XG0J&keywords=pyle+amplifier+car+audio&qid=1682697285&sprefix=pyle+amp%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-5

 

These little buggers have been discussed here many times.  I think the smaller 50Wx2 one costs about $10, the 100Wx2 about $20.  They work well.  I added the barrel connectors for the speaker outputs.  I have the 100W one connected to some bookshelf speakers in my shop.  It works really good for what it is.  I think they make 4 channel ones also.

10 hours ago, JohnS said:

• 1969-1971 BMW 2000 tii : PLO4-124.01 (A-1 & A-2) #92 004 010
• 1971 BMW 2002 tii  :  PLO4-124.01 (B-1) #92 004 011
• 1972-1973 2002 tii : PLO4-124.01 (C-1) #92 004 012
• 1974 2002 tii (USA) : PLO4-124.02 (A-1) #94 004 020

 

I copied this info from dlacy's instructions for rebuilding the tii warm up regulators.  Forgot to credit him, sorry,

John