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JohnS

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Everything posted by JohnS

  1. JohnS
    I was mainly talking about where the bumper side pieces attach to the fenders on each side (front and rear). Since the center is pushed in closer, don't the side pieces get pushed in also. I've never considered doing this, so don't know for sure.
  2. JohnS
    Hi Les, I used the oversize 2mm x 8mm O-ring type seals on both of the valves I rebuilt for each of my cars using the Blunt kit and they are both still leak free. Marshall is correct that many people have had no issues using the 1mm X 8mm O-ring seal that comes standard in the Blunt kit. The 1mm x 8mm seal easily fits. The 2mm X 8mm seals that I used have to sort of be "forced" into place. The main reason I used the oversized seal was to give the O-ring more meat to act more like the rectangular section seal that was originally used. After some time, the oversized 2mm seal gets reshaped and takes on a rectangular profile. Good luck, John
  3. JohnS
    I believe that you probably have to drill new holes in the body of the car (front and back) for attaching the bumpers to the body in the new location. That's a biggie if you ask me.
  4. JohnS
    Slap some Pirelli CN36's on the 13" wheels and then see how you like them ☺️
  5. JohnS
    Always cracks me up when I see a blue coil installed with the ballast resistor... But what do I know
  6. JohnS
    Some pictures for reference. Arrow points towards the heater box Closed (side view) Arm fully pulled in. Heat OFF. Open (side view) Arm pushed fully out. Heat ON. Closed (top view) Open (top view) Closed. Open.
  7. JohnS
    You probably already have done this, but make sure that your alternator and also the cluster are well grounded. I had a loose ground connection on my alternator that caused all sorts of weird intermittent problems. Good luck, John
  8. JohnS
    Joe, it's your lucky day. Mark it down in history, I went looking for something and actually found it. Send me a PM with your address
  9. JohnS
    I'm sure it's possible to remove the valve without pulling the heater box, but removing the arm from the heater valve and then putting it back on correctly can be a PITA. Just don't remove the cable from the arm. If you do, you're screwed. I've got big hands which makes it impossible for me. Does look like the valve is installed backwards on Joe's car... Arrow pointing the wrong way
  10. JohnS
    That's a bummer. Maybe Blunt is temporarily out of stock on that kit or something. Let me look in my parts stash. I might have a set of O-rings that I can send you. Maybe even a complete valve. Will report back later today. Are you going to pull the heater box? It's pretty hard to replace the valve otherwise. At least for me.
  11. JohnS
    I ordered the new seals from: www.theoringstore.com I ordered seals made of V75 Viton after reading about that material's properties on the store's website. The small seal is 2mm x 8mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V2.00X008 -- (2mm thick, 8mm inner diameter) The large seal is 1.5mm x 31mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V1.50X31 -- (1.5mm thick, 31mm inner diameter) I believe that the smaller seal in the Blunt kit is 1mm x 8mm -- (1mm thick, 8mm inner diameter, not sure of the material it's made of) I use these O-rings AND Blunt's kit. The stainless shaft in Blunt's kit is well worth the price vs. using an original with the plastic shaft. Unless you have a valve that has a brass shaft in good condition. Some valves had brass and later switched to plastic/nylon. That goes for the internals too. The all brass valves are nice. Then you just need the O-rings, new screws and the star lock washers. I've never been able to remove the old screws without destroying them. Had to tap them and use an easy-out.
  12. JohnS
    Standard bumper setup on a US 1973 model 2002 or 2002tii. Different than the Euro setup. Specific only to the 1973 model year in the US. The front bumper bracket is different too.
  13. JohnS
    Looks beautiful. So, this is not OEM trim from BMW? The rear corners appear to fit well. I know that this was a problem area for many with later production trim from BMW. That's awesome. Good job Blunt and nice job on your car. Now throw some Pirelli CN36's on that baby... Just kidding ?
  14. JohnS
    I paid $4500 for my '74 Fjord tii back in 1986. It was advertised in the San Jose Mercury newspaper. I remember that there were a couple of tiis for sale in that paper and also a black 2002ti. Those were the days...
  15. JohnS
    They also sell adjustable internal regulators. What I did was convert a high AMP alternator that was internally regulated by replacing the brush module with the plug type so I could use the external regulator and not change the wiring harness. Plus the adjustable external regulator was easier to adjust when it's on the side of the engine bay instead of on the alternator.
  16. JohnS
    I miss my coupe. Sold to a friend. I know it's in good hands though... Miss the smooth power of the M30 and the growl of it. '74 3.0 csi (all stock D-Jetronic Injection) Hardy & Beck Suspension (which was perfectly balanced for the car). Those two cars (Named Orange & MarshMellow) were good buddies for a long while ?
  17. JohnS
    The last new OEM green windshield that I saw was made by Pilkington. Only difference is the little BMW logo on the OEM one when compared with generic Pilkington.
  18. JohnS
    If you're still using an alternator with the original external type of voltage regulator. You can buy adjustable external regulators too. I had one on a '74 3.0 csi that I used to own. They work great. You hook up a volt meter on your battery and then turn a little screw on the bottom of the external voltage regulator to either increase or decrease the voltage until it's reading around 14 volts at the battery while the car is idling. https://www.240turbo.com/AdjustableVoltage.html#external
  19. JohnS
    That video made my day. Your excitement is contagious! Thanks for sharing ?
  20. JohnS
    I 2nd the Pete's Gearshop recommendation. Had a 4-speed rebuilt by them about 10 years ago. No issues since.
  21. JohnS
    Toward the bottom of the thread in this link, I explain the size of the heater valve O-rings and the place where I purchased them from in case you're interested. Good luck, John Link:
  22. JohnS
    I've had the W&N radiator with the higher cooling rate installed in my '73tii for over three years now and it's been working great. I found that the radiator cooled so good that I ended up putting in a higher temp thermostat (80 degrees) just to keep the car running hot enough in the winter (here is California) which isn't that cold. I think the prior thermostat I had was a 75 degree one. I also swapped out the stock 400mm tii fan for the smaller 360mm fan. Still runs plenty cool.
  23. JohnS
    That looks fricken awesome. I want to have a couple of valve covers done now.
  24. JohnS
    The main point I was trying to get across is that the coil is what requires the matching resistor. Otherwise the coil is receiving more voltage than it's designed to be supplied with. So you're overloading the coil (boosting it) and therefore "it might" burn out prematurely. That's all. I understand that the coil is designed to handle the "boosting" for short periods of time (like during starting), but not ALL the time. Otherwise, why did BMW include the ballast and circuit to bypass it during starting in their design? As one of our friends here always says, "but what do I know". ? My red coil is red and Made in Germany, but I'm older than the coil ?
  25. JohnS
    Yes, I understand that the Pertronix requires 3 ohms (or more) resistance and that the 123 doesn't. But, these coils have been around long before these electronic ignitions/triggers even existed. They (the coils) are designed to run with less than 12 volts and the resistor had nothing to do with whether or not a given electronic ignition required a certain amount of resistance. The whole idea was that they could run at a lower voltage and then be boosted with more voltage during the starting cycle. They didn't have Pertronix or 123 in 1973. I'm done. Good luck, John
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