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JohnS

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by JohnS

  1. I need to seal the rear cover on a limited slip differential that I purchased. I have a new gasket that I purchased from BMW. I've read that most folks just seal the rear cover with RTV. What's the best sealing option? Just use the Gasket by itself? RTV by itself? Gasket and RTV? Also what brand of RTV is recommended. Does anyone happen to know what the bolts on the rear cover should be torqued to? Thanks, John
  2. Here's a link to a good thread on how to rebuild a heater valve: Hope that helps, John
  3. Also, if you call Kingsborne and order a set of the wires with the loom tube, make sure to ask them to cut the wire set longer so that the wires will fit in the loom tube. Their stock length 2002 wire set is cut too short to correctly fit in the loom tube. John
  4. I bought a set of NOS half-shafts from HalBoyles. Hal quoted me a price with shipping, I paid and the parts were quickly shipped. All parts arrived as advertised. Hal was a pleasure to do business with. Thanks, John
  5. I see that Ireland Engineering now sells a 'Dual Shear Selector Rod' for use with the later style 4-speed linkage parts. http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-clutch-driveline/2002dssr.html
  6. that's one of my favorites of the stock steering wheel options for the round taillight cars. I switched back to using the stock plastic "bus wheel" on my '73tii and I love it. I "went back to stock" on the interior too, so having a stock wheel just feels right. Looks like you scored.a very nice wheel. Those are hard to come by in excellent condition. Cheers, John
  7. 74 US tiis have the additional hoses and vacuum retard distributor to conform with tighter US smog regulations for 1974. The Kugelfischer pump is also different for 1974. All of the parts work together as a matched set and are unique to only the 1974 tii.
  8. Save yourself a little money and just buy the master cylinder made by Ate which is available from many parts vendors. It's the same part that you'll end up getting from BMW. http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/34311120478-MFG4-V5471.aspx You'll also need to buy 2 of the rubber grommets: 34 31 1 121 911 and maybe 2 new plastic elbows: 34 32 1 102 282 and probably some new brake fluid hose: 21 52 1 163 714 and maybe a new brake fluid reservoir: 34 32 1 112 399 and of course there's the brake fluid: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/81229407512-MFG4-V5471.aspx and maybe a pressure bleeder like the ones made by Motive. Sorry, scope creep
  9. I love the wheels. Borrani alloys or just alloys with a Borrani sticker?
  10. Jorma has a great voice. Saw Hot Tuna at the Santa Cruz Civic Auditorium back in 1976.
  11. Those are fantastic pictures COOP. Thanks for sharing. Spied a couple of Lambos racing up HWY 1 toward Monterey on the way into work this morning. Always look forward to this week around here, John
  12. I hope they get the fire raging down in Big Sur under control soon. It's been very smoky in the Monterey Bay area for the last couple of days.
  13. There are the chrome plated plastic ones that come on 3.0 CS coupes. Maybe you could black out the chrome and just leave the ring in chrome? https://www.wallothnesch.com/kappe-fuer-handrad-chrom-fuer-alle-modelle-und-baujahre-passend-wird-2x-pro-auto-benoetigt-51-22-06.html
  14. Got Rob's new Automobile Electrical book yesterday. Love it. Have also been following the re-heading of Otto story through his BMW CCA column. Good luck with the sale Rob!
  15. I recently had to replace the oil pressure sender on my 73tii because it started to leak where the plastic part meets the metal. The replacement I purchased is made by Bosch. http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/61311354274-MFG14-V5471.aspx
  16. W&N sells a reproduction of the all brass heater valve for the later cars: https://www.wallothnesch.com/wasserventil-ab-1971-originalausfuehrung-komplett-aus-messing-incl-innenteil-kein-kunststoff-64-03-04.html I really like valves that have been rebuilt using the kit from Blunt. There's a good write-up in the Articles section that Marshall wrote on rebuilding the Heater Valve.
  17. The fan belt on my '73 would chirp/squeal every once it a while. Belt was tight, bushings were good. Turned out to be a very small leak near where the upper radiator hose connection is on the radiator. Was spraying a tiny bit of fluid on the belt after driving a while. By the time I would open the hood to check it, everything would be all dried up and looking good. Drove me crazy until it got worse and then it was obvious. Any small leaks?
  18. I had never watched that video before. I own a similar fjord '74 tii, but without sunroof. I was watching the video right before he squirts the disel into the spark plug holes and saw a snorkle!! Just like mine Ha Ha !
  19. The fact that the car started a couple of times and ran correctly makes it sound like the coil is wired up correctly. Not sure how to trouble-shoot the intermittent starting problem.
  20. One of the items that didn't sell at Brisbane will no longer be a garage queen. Thanks to my friends at Bill's Wheels in Santa Cruz... And Thanks to Ray and his brother at Elefant Supply Co. for the awesome artwork and skateboards...
  21. I was just studying the wiring to the coil and realized that the change I suggested before of switching the terminals really doesn't change anything in the curcuit. The way I suggested is just the way it's meant to be connected based on the lengths of the wires. Look at it, it should work correctly the way you had it set up before and how I suggested you change it. There's no difference except for cosmetics. So it makes sense that there's no change in your car not starting either. Now we gotta figure out the root cause. Some help I am
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