Jump to content

JohnS

Kugelfischer
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,604

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JohnS

  1. JohnS
    I confirmed that those two Bowden cables are the same lengths end to end on the metal part. Look to be interchangeable to me.
  2. JohnS
    What year roadhog?
  3. JohnS
    Looks like my "thrasher" '74 tii used to look ... before she got .. thrashed. I bet mine runs better though. Tan interior on a fjord? was that original? Mine has navy blue. I wonder if I could get 15K? Mine has two "flag" style mirrors. That car looks really original. Things I notice: original can relays. original black coil, that's the same as a red coil. I've got my original one too. no snorkel. possible cool radio. Hopefully no speakers in the door panels. Possible original Trico wiper arms and blade holders (they came blacked out from the factory on the '74tii) The steering wheel is original. The pad is different than the '75 and later 2002s. Original 5"x13" steelies? All of the specific to the '74tii vacuum/smog stuff. except the "airbox fronts" dash doesn't look majorly cracked
  4. JohnS
    I can check this weekend (Saturday 02/14) if the two bowden cables (#22 & #23) are identical or not. They might be slightly different lengths, but I bet that you could substutute a #22 for a #23. I'll confirm and report back, John
  5. JohnS
    I've had good luck with the alternators and starters from BnR. I guess I've been lucky. I was a little pissed when I purchased one of their tii alternators and it came with a "too small" pully. I ended up just swapping the stock pully onto it from my old alternator. I have too many spare fan belts in my stock of parts, that I'm not changing sizes any time soon. What pissed me off was they install their small pullys without a key in them, so they spin when you try to hold the pully and undo the nut to do the swap. I had to use an air tool to undo the nut. Other than that, I've had two starters and two 85A alternators going strong for over three years now... Knock on wood, or aluminum One tip, make sure that you secure a really good ground wire between your alternator and the block. Makes a huge diference in how they work. Also, don't overtighten the fan belt. You don't want it to squeel, but you don't want it too tight.
  6. JohnS
    Keep the dream alive Just watched the video again to get the motivation to try again to get the rear "bitch nut" off the left hand side of the rear hub on my '74 daily driver. Happy Friday
  7. JohnS
    Very interesting. I wonder if I could get that setup using calipers from my E9 (which are the same as used on the Turbo) to tuck under stock tii 13x5" alloys or stock tii (13x5") steel wheels? Are the Turbo rotors ventilated? I do see that the Turbo uses a unique hub (part #31-21-1-103-797). Will the Turbo rotors also fit on the tii hubs? (part #31-21-2-634-002) Thanks, John
  8. JohnS
    Drat drat and double drat! I was hoping that I was wrong. I can understand with the slim market and all ... IE has always treated me right. No complaints. Just dreaming of $60 new hubs .. crap! Thanks Andrew, John
  9. JohnS
    I believe that the E21 reproduction hubs that Ireland Engineering sells are the later E21 style which use the smaller bearings. These are for doing a vented brake setup using standard 2002(non-tii) struts. Check with them before you order. The only CON that I can see with the vented brake setup is that you might not be able to run stock 13" wheels (depends on the wheel and its offset). Also you will probably want to upgrade your rear brakes at the same time to balance out the increased braking in the front. 250mm rear drum upgrade is common to match the vented rotors in the front. John
  10. JohnS
    I've had heater cores repaired (re-soldered) and "rodded out (reamed out)" at a local radiator shop before. They can do it as long as the coils within the core itself aren't leaking. Otherwise the local shop here in Watsonville CA quoted me a price for re-coring (replacing the core of the heater core) that was way more than buying a new one. If yours is trashed, the best bet is to look for a good used one or new if you can afford it. Good luck, John
  11. JohnS
    Have you checked your SPAM filter to make sure that their e-mail didn't get blocked or marked as junk mail? I've ordered from them many times and have never had any issues. Good luck, John
  12. JohnS
    I bought a NOS fan from a fellow FAQer a while back and it arrived with a loose fan blade similar to yours. I ended up applying a little epoxy to secure the metal fan blade to the pink-ish colored plastic hub part. It's been working like a champ for years now. John
  13. JohnS
    I will definitely look forward to seeing your gem at Brisbane this year (hopefully) or next. Thanks for sharing the pics, John
  14. JohnS
    too funny. I blew up the tire on my daughter's new bike that she got for Christmas. Daddy got a little too excited and exploded the tire. My daughter wasn't pleased ...
  15. JohnS
    The Shizzle... I guess it doesn't get cold in Ohio? I'm freezing when it gets below 32 degrees ...
  16. JohnS
    I would say that one of the valves properly rebuilt using the kit from Blunt is better than new (even the all brass valves) It has a stainless steel arm that is not going to strip out like the plastic arms on the later valves and even the all-brass ones (brass is pretty soft). Also the nylon (or whatever it is) internal part in the Blunt kit moves way more smoothly when you're turning your heater on and off all the time like I do. If I'm going to go through all of the trouble to rebuild my frick'n heater box, I want to make sure that I'm not going back in there for a long while. That's why I'm all anal on the pressure testing. Guess who installed a used heater core once only to find out that it leaked? AMHIK
  17. JohnS
    Yes, the retarded distributors are on the later tii for "emissions control", not performance. The 74tii has a weird vacuum deal set up so that when the car is coasting after you let off the gas, it retards the timing to help with smog I guess. Later square tail 2002s have a similar "feature". I'm not sure but I think the later 75 & 76 2002s even had two vacuum lines on the distributor (one for advance, one for retard?) But ... That white '74 for sale looks pretty good, except for that Blue Coil ... I wonder if they bypassed the sneaky resistor wire on the '74tii? I hope the seller gets what they're asking. Gives me hope that I can sell my Trasher '74tii for big bucks one day Ha! PS, I'll never sell. I love that car
  18. JohnS
    Actually, the 74tii uses a vacuum retard distributor. If you disconnect the vacuum hose, you'll see that the timing will advance quite a bit. I was told by Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors that the 74tii distributor is almost identical to the Bosch 008 distributor used on the earlier tiis with the added retard device. He said that you can plug off the vacuum tube and then run it just like a 008. I've kept mine stock on my 74tii (retarded) and it works great. If it ain't broke don't fix it
  19. JohnS
    Maybe if you call RockAuto you can order them that way. I did receive an e-mail from RockAuto saying that they were back in stock a couple of days ago, but I didn't actually try to order any tii rotors from their web site. When I tried to order them a while back, there was an option where you could enter your e-mail address to be informed when the out-of-stock items are back in stock.
  20. JohnS
    If you want to make your own pressure tester for heater valves and heater cores (like I show pics of earlier in this thread)... Use some pieces of an old heater intake or output hose, some hose clamps, and here's where you can get the rest of the parts for cheap on e-bay: 30 PSI Gas / Air Test Gauge Pressure 3/4" NPT Body (~$13.50 ea) http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-PSI-Gas-Air-Test-Gauge-Pressure-3-4-FPT-Body-/181395991692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a3c0b2c8c 3/4" Male NPT x 3/4" PEX Brass Crimp Adaptor (~$3.00 ea) http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Male-NPT-x-3-4-PEX-LEAD-FREE-Brass-Crimp-Adaptor-Cinch-Fittings-No-Lead-/200971641031?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2ecad7e0c7 3/4" Test Plugs (~$1.50 ea): http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Test-Plugs-LEAD-FREE-Brass-Crimp-Cinch-PEX-Fittings-No-Lead-Compliant-/181232760821?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2a325077f5 You Pump it up to about 10 psi using a bicycle pump. Cheers, John
  21. JohnS
    Too funny. After I get through forking out the dough for the ones from Walloth & Nesch, I get an e-mail from RockAuto saying that they have new tii Rotors back in stock (Made by RayBestos). Geez ... I wonder if the ones from W&N were made by RayBestos? Oh well, John
  22. JohnS
    Used the tips from this FAQ (heating up the hubs and freezing the bearing races) on a pair of tii hubs this past weekend. Purchased the bearing race and seal driver tool from Harbor Freight. It had the sizes for the tii bearings in their kit (59.0mm & 44.5mm). Easily installed the new bearing races and seals. Cleaning up the hubs was a pain, but worth it. Rubber gloves help. Thanks for the write-up Marshall !
  23. JohnS
    Tried my best to live the dream today ... 70 degrees on the Central California Coast in January ... Crazy
  24. JohnS
    EDIT. Removed my comments after fully reading the thread...
  25. JohnS
    Looks sweet COOP!
×
×
  • Create New...