JohnS

Palo Alto Speedometer rebuilt the clock in my '73 tii many years ago. Still works great and keeps accurate time. You might try them http://www.paspeedo.com/

When I rebuilt my heater valves using this kit, I replaced the seals with different ones: I ordered the new seals from: www.theoringstore.com I ordered seals made of V75 Viton after reading about that material's properties on the store's website. The small seal is 2mm x 8mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V2.00X008 -- (2mm thick, 8mm inner diameter) The large seal is 1.5mm x 31mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V1.50X31 -- (1.5mm thick, 31mm inner diameter) I believe that the smaller seal in the Blunt kit is 1mm x 8mm -- (1mm thick, 8mm inner diameter, not sure of the material it's made of)

Hi Marshall, When I bench tested the heater valves that I rebuilt using the heater valve rebuilt kit from Blunt using the original seals that came with the kit, I was using air pressure to test for leaks on the valve. They both leaked air around the shaft, so only the smaller of the two seals was leaking. I have a test harness that I use for testing my heater cores where I pump it up with 10 psi of air and then see if it holds pressure (overnight). The same rebuilt valve probably wouldn't have leaked anti-freeze when installed on a car. I was picky and wanted it to hold air, so installed different seals. I was is no way DIS-ing Blunt's kit. I think it's awesome. I ordered the new seals from: www.theoringstore.com I ordered seals made of V75 Viton after reading about that material's properties on the store's website. The small seal is 2mm x 8mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V2.00X008 -- (2mm thick, 8mm inner diameter) The large seal is 1.5mm x 31mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V1.50X31 -- (1.5mm thick, 31mm inner diameter) I believe that the smaller seal in the Blunt kit is 1mm x 8mm -- (1mm thick, 8mm inner diameter, not sure of the material it's made of) That's it. Pressure Test Harness: Cap off the valve side: Does it hold pressure? I even would open and close the valve a couple times too. No leaks with the new seals... Cheers, John

I've used two of the kits from Blunt, but found that the smaller of the two seals was a bit too thin and leaked a little bit when I bench tested the valves before installing them. My solution was to buy some better seals (made of a better type of material and slightly thicker) and use those seals instead. Otherwise, the kit works great. Much smoother operation when compared with the stock valve internal parts. Both of my tiis have been using the rebuilt valves for a while without any issues. I'll provide the information on the seals and where you can get them when I return home. They're cheap and available and can be used to repair a valve using the stock internal parts too. The best part of the kit is the stainless steel shaft and bolt (far superior to the plastic type shafts). Cheers, John

Reminds me of driving down Highway 1 in Big Sur. I wonder what country that is? Love it! Sounds like the engine has been beefed up a bit or not the stock exhaust. M2 maybe?

I just checked my '73tii. Black bus style wheel 400mm Diameter.

Like others I recommend NGK plugs because the correct Bosch plugs aren't available anymore. Either BP5ES or BP6ES. With NGK plugs, the lower number is a hotter plug, so BP5ES is slightly hotter than a BP6ES. I've been told that the BP5ES is about the same heat range and the old Bosch W8DC which is no longer available. Likewise, the BP6ES is about the same heat range as the old Bosch W7DC. With Bosch plugs, the higher numbered plug has the higher heat range (opposite of the NGK numbering system). I use BP5ES in my '73tii because it runs a little richer and needs the hotter plug. On my '74tii I use the BP6ES. You don't really want to use one of the plugs with the built in resistor if you're using the standard resistor boot spark plug wire ends, otherwise you'll be getting a weaker spark. NGK plugs with the BPR at the beginning of the name means it has a built in resistor. They'll work, but aren't optimal if you have the resistor boot wires.

I went for a spin on what I call "the Artichoke Autobahn" out near Castroville CA yesterday...

Looks like the Turbo hub (part #31-21-1-103-797) is unique to the Turbo, just like the Turbo rotors are. Since I have some spare calipers for my 3.0csi coupe, I guess I've already got some "Turbo Calipers". Oh well, she's staying stock for now...

The surf was great up here in Monterey Bay this morning. I hit Moss Landing at O-dark-thirty in my daily driver tii surf-mobile. A couple of feet overhead and super hollow. Swell should be heading south towards you... Good luck, John

Here's the pics I promised... The box (with cut-out): Rotor top: Rotor bottom: Cool W&N notepad: Cheers, John

I thought about upgrading to vented rotors, but I'm set on using my stock 13" tii alloys and stock 13" steel wheels on my tiis, so was afraid that the common vented rotor upgrade for the tii might not fit under my stock wheels. I was also considering a kit that Walloth & Nesch sells to upgrade tii calipers to Turbo style and then use the Turbo vented rotors. Does anyone know what type of hub is required for the Turbo rotors? Also, would the Turbo rotors and calipers fit under stock tii 13" wheels? @TobyB ... I'll take a pic of the Rotors and the box when I get home tonight. The box is all white with nothing else on it except a cut-out spot. Cheers, John

They appear to be of good quality. Came in at about $218 US dollars for a pair including the freight charges from Germany.

I believe that you can still get a replacement speaker that fits perfectly from BMW. The BMW part number is 65-12-1-375-109. They look like this (brown one is the original Blaupunkt, new one from BMW is made by Grundig): If you can't get it from BMW, Walloth & Nesch sells a kit that contains the speaker along with a replica of the plastic panel. The BMW (Grundig) speaker fits in an original Blaupunkt plastic panel too. Cheers, John

I received the tii rotors today from Walloth & Nesch. No telling what brand they are. I can see where W&N purposely cut the manufacturers label from the box so I have no way of knowing where they were made or who the manufacturer is. Definitely aftermarket. No markings or part numbers cast into the rotors (unlike the real ones from BMW). We'll see how they hold up over time. Cheers, John

I just ordered a set from W&N. I'll report back what brand they are once they arrive.

The VW idiot book is such a classic. I also come from a VW background. My first car was a 62 ragtop bug. Over the years I owned a 67, 68 and a 73 bus. Enjoyed the heck out of all of them. I no longer have any VWs, but I've held onto that VW idiot book

An article on re-keying your door locks can be found on this site: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/bmvseite/ Click on 'Tech' and then you'll see a list of links. 5th link from top is the one you want.

Sounds to me like somebody has modified the stock wiring and things aren't like they would be in the stock configuration. The reason for that extra black wire to the positive side of the coil is to give the coil some extra juice (boost) when starting instead of going through the resistor (which cuts the voltage down to about 10 volts) when running. It's supposed to get the full (non-resisted) voltage when the starter is cranking.

AD does great work. I had Jeff rebuild both of my original distributors from the 73tii and the 74tii. Here's some eye candy: from 74tii 0 231 180 013 with vacuum retard: from 73tii 0 231 151 008: Like Jim I prefer to use the NGK plugs. Either BP6ES or BP5ES if you want a slightly hotter plug than the BP6ES. Per Jeff's advice, I ditched the Pertronix and went back to points. Ask Jeff why if/when you talk to him.

The 74 and later cars use the starter soleniod to bypass the resistor wire when in starting mode instead of the starter bypass relay used on the round-eye cars. Look at the positive wire(s) connected to your coil. You'll see a black wire combined with the resistor wire on a single connection. The black wire is hot when in starting mode, the resistor wire is hot when running. The resistor wire looks sort of like yellowed out speaker wire. The original black coils on the tii are equivalent to the red coil and require the same 1.8 ohms of resistance. I still have a couple of the original black coils from my 73tii and 74tii that have readable labels which says that they require the 1.8 ohm resistor.

Yes, you need to run a new wire in place of the resistor wire. The 74 and later cars don't use that silver starter bypass relay. I think they use the solenoid on the starter to power the coil when in starting mode and bypassing the resistor. Take a look at a wiring diagram to confirm. As you found, the resistor wire on the 74 tii runs all the way from fuse #12 to the coil so it's easy to bypass it by just unplugging the resistor wire from the fuse box and replacing it with another non-resistor wire. John

Carl, Your 74 tii uses the sneaky resistor wire. I researched the specs of the resistor wire used for the 74 tii and it provides 1.8 ohms of resistance. So, the 74 tii is set up to use the "red" coil (which requires a 1.8 ohm resistor) from the factory. Other 74 and later regular 2002s also use the sneaky resistor wire, but it's shorter than the one used on the tii and only provides 0.9 ohms of resistance. I know probably TMI ... John I call it "sneaky" because if you didn't know about it, you might not realize that the resistor is there.

From a Russian guy that I used to work with. I took him to lunch one day in my '73tii "This reminds me of Russian car"

Got this warning from my anti-virus when trying to access Ray's site...