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JohnS

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by JohnS

  1. Got mine today. Stoked on the boards and the poster! Now I just needs to get me an E30 M3 and I'll be set! Thanks Ray
  2. I had a similar problem with my car and when I went to replace the alternator, I found that the alternator mount where it bolts to the block was really loose. It was hard to notice until I took the fan belt off and released the tension on the alternator. My grounding strap for the alternator was connected to one of the alternator mount bolts that was loose. John
  3. I guess you would use a dremel tool or a sanding block to chamfer the edges? I'm going to try that on my '73 tii. I rebuilt the brakes on both of my tiis recently using the same setup. New BMW rotors, rebuilt calipers, Hawk HPS pads, Ate grease, new shims and the '73 has always squealed, but the '74 never has. I was careful and followed the recommended way of breaking in the pads that was mentioned here and on the Hawk pad box on both cars. '73 squeals and it pisses me off, John
  4. 1. Sean Tubbs - Type 2 Powder coated! 2. Alex (akfjord) type 1 - powder coated 3. John (JohnS) - Set of Type 2 Powder Coated. 4. 5.
  5. I really need to create a spreadsheet like the ones shown. I've been squirreling away parts for so long that I can’t remember what I’ve got or where it is. I’m notorious for buying new parts only to find that I already have them in my parts stash a month or so later. Just yesterday I was searching through the stash and found a new tii fuel pump that I purchased back in the 80’s that I forgot I had. That made my day. John
  6. The stance looks spot on to me. Very nice. What suspension package did you go with? John
  7. I've bought a couple of sets of Scheel seats and the seats were taken apart (the seat back seperated from the seat bottom) before they were packed for shipment. The ones I bought from Esty were packed really nicely so that it was easy to figure out how to reassemble. Several big effin' boxes though... To disassemble the seats I have, you begin by removing the plastic covers that cover the tilt-back/hinge mechanism on each side. Then you unbolt the lower part of the hinge on each side from the seat bottom. The plastic covers on mine were kind of thrashed, so I cleaned them up and used some JB weld to make them as good as I could.
  8. "I see" says the blind man. I get it now. Have you come up with a price? Thanks, John
  9. Hi Nate, Received my 2 sets in the mail today. Thanks for the quick shipment. Those hard plastic bushings are going to work a lot better than the soft rubber ones I've used in the past. Thanks, John
  10. That linkage piece used to come with the plastic ends from BMW back in the day. If you order that piece now from BMW, it comes with the regular metal ends. And, the last time I checked, (about a year ago), all of those linkage pieces were still available from BMW. I ordered all of them through the BluntMeister. Even the replacement metal ends. Have they all gone NLA recently? John
  11. I still don't understand how that tilts the seat. I guess I need to see a picture of it installed to get it. I mean, the rails and seat bottom all bolt to the flat part, right? Is it just for ventilation? John
  12. Depending upon the year of your car's speedo and also what type of differential you're running. You can get a brand new late style (cross-hair) speedo that's calibrated (W=1.393) for a 3.91 differential new from Walloth & Nesch for around $100 the last time I checked. Works great if you don't care about keeping track of the original mileage that's on your old speedo and you're running a 3.91 diff. That's what I ended up doing on my '74 tii after I got tired of getting the original speedo fixed and recalibrated. Another speedo repair place in the Bay Area is Palo Alto Speedometer: http://www.paspeedo.com/ I don't know what the going rate is for getting a speedo rebuilt these days, but it was more than $100 when I last had one rebuilt over 5 years ago...
  13. Ya, if you're not going to bare metal, then you wouldn't want that primer...
  14. After coming in from surfing and dog tired, I couldn't take off my wetsuit because people kept coming up to me wanting to talk story about my car. Too funny
  15. These pictures are from back on Friday Sept. 2nd. There was a nice South Swell predicted for the Central California Coast, so I headed down the coast about 100 miles. It was a successful mission and the driving and surfing were great!
  16. I ended up buying 3 of these German Wheel Restoration kits from AutoGeek. I have left over cans of the solvant and a couple of the rags and all of the foam finger things left, but the price was cheaper than buying only what I needed seperately. They say you only need 2 of their kits to do 4 wheels, but I needed 3. http://www.autogeek.net/german-wheel-restoration-kit.html
  17. I had to return a couple of cans of the Wurth silver paint a while back because the cans were defective and wouldn't spray. Maybe the cans had been sitting around for a long time before I bought them, don't know. That's the only reason I went with the 1Z. I can't compare the 1Z with the Wurth silver, because I never actually got to spray any of the Wurth silver. I will say that the 1Z primer and paint layed down really nicely and was the exact color I was looking for. Tuff stuff too. John
  18. I'll take two sets please. PayPal payment on the way. Thanks, John
  19. That looks awesome Brian! I'm saving up to get my fjord car painted too. Am definitely going to talk with Bart soon. Thanks for sharing, John
  20. Nice work Chris, Interested in your review of the radio upgrade after you've had a chance to hook it up and play it. Thanks, John
  21. Looking good Jason. Why the ITP on the plates and not RGB? John
  22. I probably should have spent some time on sanding out the dings and gouges. I didn't do any sanding after they were blasted. You can see some of the curbage in the picture of the single wheel. Oh well, they'll be covered in brake dust pretty soon. John
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