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Posts posted by Bozeman02
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Thank you everyone, John, for the detailed information. I really appreciate the help and your patience.
- Remove the black panels under the dash, if your car still has them.
- Get your head up under the dash so you can see the back of the area where the cluster is. You should see the 2 knurled cylindrical aluminum "nuts" that spin onto the studs of the cluster.
- Remove the nuts, then push the cluster out of the dash.
- Once the cluster is free from the dash binnacle, disconnect the few pieces of the wiring harness from the back of the cluster. You might want to take some photos before disconnecting wiring so you''ll know where everything goes.
- There has been a recent thread about removing & replacing the cluster glass - try a search.
Good luck!
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I apologize for asking what must appear as a silly question, but what is this thing (hanging down in the photos below) that covers all the electrical giblets under the steering column called? Mine has become unusable due to wear and tear at the points of securement. Is there a part number or better way I can search for one to buy (either gently used or new)?
Thanks in advance,
Peder
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Thanks fellas.
I assume this might be a good time to replace the light bulbs too (overall, it looks dim, so I assume at least one has given up the ghost).
I've looked for photo tutorial for pulling out the cluster, but I haven't found one yet.
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Hey everyone, I need some help and am looking for suggestions on how to deal with this problem.
The glass over the tachometer in my 1971 2002 has become sunken (I think it happened when I tapped it, trying to get it to stop buzzing at certain RPMs).
I'm trying to figure out how to easily fix this problem. Here's the salient photograph:
Step 1: Rather than take the dash apart, I was planning on obtaining a small (say 2.5") suction cup (think of a small dent puller) to grab the glass and pull it back up into the proper position. Thoughts? Folly? Better idea?
Step 2: How to keep the glass from "buzzing" once it's in place. What about using a little silicone around the edges, hidden from view, to keep the glass from vibrating?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Peder
Denver
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I am in the bodyshop industry for 25 plus years and have never seen that happen. Something is not right here and the shop needs to deal with it . period. Although if gas will do that ,blending the paint may be a problem.
Bill
vancouver BC
73 tii
Thanks Bill, that is some good information.
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btw, dont put any stickers on that car that you dont want on forever... otherwise that paint is comming right off with it like a fruit roll-up
Good point. Thankfully, I don't do stickers of any kind. It's rather uncouth in my opinion.
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Fantastic video and photos NeueKlasseGuy. I love your cars, including your CSL!!!
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Probably will
If this is the case, I'd prefer to have the repair done locally - easier to keep up with progress & communication.
If you have spoken to a local shop that you'd trust to repaint it, what is their thinking on the paint removal?
Probably will be in the range of 0.75-1k for repainting the quarter panel.
I found out from the original body shop that they used Matrix paint (a subsidiary of PPG) and Euro Autoglass clear coat. I wonder if Matrix is a water-based paint? Anyone know?
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Thanks everyone for your valuable input. The shop owner said he still thinks it isn't faulty paint or application but rather the gasoline. Apparently, it's a very reputable shop in CA. Depending on how he handles the situation, I may or may not post the shop's name in this forum.
He told me that if I can get the car to him, he'll repaint it. If I can't, there's been no offer to help pay for costs to have it done locally. The rub is that it will cost me just as much to ship it to him as it would be to have the car repainted locally. This is a very frustrating situation to be in. Anyone else ever have a problem like this with an out-of-state restoration?
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I've seen gasoline leaving a smudge on my toyota when I had a spill and didn't clean it but it sure didn't strip the paint the way it did to yours, did you put any gas adiditives in the tank?
No, never any additives. Good question though.
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Hey owners and experts:
I sent my '71 Colorado Orange 2002 to California for restoration a few years ago, which included some rust and dent repair, stripping, priming, and repainting the car, keeping the original color. The body work and paint work was finished around June 2010, and the complete restoration finished July 2011.
A couple months ago, I filled up my gas tank (ceasing when the nozzle auto-stopped) on a hot day (90+ F), drove it the mile to home, and parked it in the garage and went inside, around 5pm. Later that night, my wife and I returned from a walk to dinner, and we came in through the garage. We noticed a strong gasoline odor, and we found, to our horror, that there was gasoline on the floor, and the paint beneath the gas cap was bubbled, like this:
I also attached an image of the left fender flare, which I noticed a few months ago began to exhibit some concerning paint bubbles... rust?
The restoration was done at a very reputable 2002 only shop, and the body work and paint were outsourced by them to a very reputable Californian body shop.
The body shop says that it's certainly the gasoline and that no paint will withstand exposure to gasoline like that. Possible, I guess, but I've never seen this happen to any of my other cars. However, to be fair, I've never had one leak gasoline like this I suppose, and the exposure could have been for several straight hours.
The local (Denver) reputable body shop I've taken it to says that no good paint properly applied should do that. They suggested I find out who manufactured the paint and query whether there was a "bad batch" or that there was an error in the application. Is this really something that could happen?
The California body shop has been understanding, and I'm calling them again to discuss options.
Any insight from anyone here on this forum would be greatly appreciated. I can't wait to get this resolved and return to driving my daily driver!
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Very funny, when I said I did the pre myself, I didn't say I'd want to do it again, or I may end up a divorced man...
It took me a little over 5 months to get her this far and I'd bet that's more time than you'd feel is acceptible.
Hehe. Nice work, nonetheless.
Peder
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I did most of the prep, stipping the car down to the shell and wheels and for final bodywork and paint I used Rob Porter in Battle Ground, WA.
Looks great. When can I drop my car by your house? What's your turn around time?
I'll give you a shout when I'm closer to that stage of things. For now, I need to get inertia-reel seat belts and a new center console.
Peder
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Nice work Larry! Makes me excited to see another beautiful 02 so close by!
*drool*
Peder
p.s. Who did your body work and paint? You or a shop?
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See if Blunt can get them for you cheaper. Part number is:
36 13 2 225 190, BMW list $56.50
Do you have contact info for this so-called "blunt"? Forgive the newbie-ness...
:: peder ::
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i have 1...i don't recall if it's got the BBS center logo or BMW...
like new condition $35.00
Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if I need it. The guys at BBS have them for sale too- 56 USD each plus shipping. Ouch.
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Thanks for the tip. I've already e-mailed them.
Appreciate it!
Peder
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I think you should have the nut tightened down about 4 turns worth of threads. Correct me if I'm wrong. Sorry, no leads on the centercaps, you might be able to paint a set of plain silver ones, as it looks like yours are painted anyway.
I'm pretty sure they're fine, but I'll double check anyway. Thanks for the vote of concern.
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I'm in need of 3 center caps for 14" BBS basketweave wheels. Does anyone here have them for sale or know where I could find some? I've tried Ebay and Craigslist, but nothing has come up for sale over the past month.
Any help/advice is much appreciated.
Peder
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Definitely give us pics Larry. I'll be doing the same in a couple years for my 71.
Peder
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Anyone ever do seat heaters in E21 Recaros?
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
Ben from 2002AD did a fantastic job of installing seat heaters in mine a couple years ago, and they're absolutely amazing in the winter. I'm unsure of the exact brand/model of heater, but I could ask him if you want. If you use yours as much as I do in the cold Colorado winters, you'll never regret the upgrade.
Here's a shot of both the reupholstered Recaros as well as the controls mounted on the under steering column cover: