jmr_1602

Hopefully "Jody" doesn't buy it.

Found these while trolling a local car forum. prototype designed by Pietro Frua *I should have used "Search", looks like these have already been posted.

Jonjank, Do you know which e21 airdam that is? I've admired your car for a year now, and have always wanted to know. Thought it was the VW MK1 duckbill at first, but obviously not.

this is a link to craaazzy's project blog. He mounted the large duckbill (MK1 VW GTI) to his 02, http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,325713/start,30/

Is the "L" light on your gauge clusters burnt out? If so your battery won't charge. I had that problem last week, added new bulbs, and everything is fine now.

Thanks for the responses! I forgot about the screen in the fuel nipple on the carb. I'll go thru that one tonight. I replaced the in-line fuel filter last week, so far it's been running clear. I got a cheap Advance Auto electric fuel pump, don't think I can get to the inside of that one, but I'll check it too. I guess to be on the safe side I'll just go through the whole fuel delivery system over the weekend. *and Frenchee thanks for the offer on the screen, I've got a possible deal on one right now, but if it falls thru I'll email you.

Hello all. I just got word from Blunt that in-tank fuel sender screens are NLA. I did a thorough search, and found some members found ways to solve the problem, but didn't specify. Mine is ripping apart from the ring, and is pretty clogged. Can anyone tell me what they've done to correct the issue, or if you found one – where? *Ive also posted a WTB thread for a used screen. Thanks in advance!

Hello all, just got word from Blunt that in-tank fuel sender screens are NLA. Im looking for a good used one. Mine has some rips and is falling apart. Contact me at: jason @ noahlarmz dot com

So this morning, I cleaned out every crevice of my 45 DCOE I could find with carb cleaner. checked for vacuum leaks and found none. Ran the car afterwards, and I had no stalling issues under load, but I didn't want to get my hopes up so... I moved on to the gas tank. I removed the in-tank fuel sender unit, and noticed the screen floating at the bottom of the tank. I think it fell off while trying to remove the fuel sender tho. Anyhow, after 30 minutes I was able to get it out of using a long oil paint brush with a small gauge needle taped to the end of it. The screen (fine metal mesh kind) itself was heavily clogged, and it had a few rips along the ring. I cleaned to the best of my abilities, with soap/water, and carb cleaner. Flow was improved when I tested it by blowing air threw it, but fluids don's seem to freely flow. However I still need to replace it due to the rips. I used the search function (typed in "fuel sender" AND "screen") and found out that they are NLA, but then again I heard members getting them from Max or Blunt. So now Im on the look out for a replacement screen. Sorry no pics.

Just thought I'd update a little. Since I last posted, I've added I.E. fender flares (sorry purists.) I haven't gotten around to cutting the fenders yet, since starting school again, but it's in the plans. I also got some vintage plates from '71. VA DMV will let you register a car with old plates as long as they're in good condition and have space for registration stickers. The picture below was taken by one of my design interns. A little too much on the digitally enhanced side, but its the most current. I also replaced the Budweiser tall boy can, with a more period correct can. Tried finding a Warsteiner, no luck. Other than that, not much in the "project" sense. I have been trying to figure out a stalling problem. Car starts right up and idles fine, but under load it will stall around 3K. Ill try to correct the issue by hitting the gas, but it will eventually die. Things I've done so far. • replaced fuel filter. • checked plugs, wires, dizzy cap. • checked fuel pump out flow for 30 sec. (seemed fine) • and sprayed the hell out of my jets with carb cleaner. • floats seemed fine, no cracks, didn't hear any fluid in em either. Tomorrow morning, I'm going to try cleaning the carb again, this time spraying copious amounts of carb cleaner down the vacant tubes after removing jets. Maybe something is sitting down there. I also plan on seeing how the car runs w/out the gas cap (read that somewhere), and checking for vacuum leaks. Though not sure how to do so. I think I read in the archives, spritzing water around intake manifold and vacuum hoses and looking for any changes in how the engine runs.

I think I spotted an '02 in a Fred Perry lookbook this week also. Thought it was cool, even if its a close up of the drivers side.

Im not sure who's flikr this is, but there are plenty of shots of the car here http://www.flickr.com/photos/96201277@N00/sets/72157612126075051/

I think this is what you are looking for.

Thanks guys. I'll go through it this week. I appreciate the advice.

Originally I posted this question in my project blog, but not sure if anyones seen it. I've run into problem that I'm trying to trouble shoot. While driving, my car stalled and shut down. It would not restart, and I ended up waiting 5 hours for a tow truck. I checked my battery and it had about 12.3V. I also checked all my grounds, and everything seemed to be in proper order. When I turn the key, I don't hear the starter engaging, and the electric fuel pump doesn't make the normal audible 'clicking" noises, in fact its a faint clicking noise that goes completely silent after about 5 seconds of turning the key. I was going to remove the fuel line and check out the pumps output after 30 seconds of turning the key (like I've read in the archives), but honestly I don't think it's working at all. So my question is. Do I have a fuel pump issue, or is it my ignition switch? Something else? I assume ignition switch since I hear next to nothing when turning the key over. All electrical components are working: lights, stereo, gauges... I'm not sure what else to mention, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! car details: 6V s14 starter (less than year old) e21 head crane ignition tii dizzy electric fuel pump

Sorry for the late reply. I got the reps off of the vwvortex site. Im actually thinking about getting rid of them, but haven't made up my mind. I actually want some 13x7 or 13x8's. Anyhow, I've run into problem that I'm trying to trouble shoot. While driving, my car stalled and shut down. It would not restart, and I ended up waiting 5 hours for a tow truck. I checked my battery and it had about 12.3V. I also checked all my grounds, and everything seemed to be in proper order. When I turn the key, I don't hear the starter engaging, and the electric fuel pump doesn't make the normal audible 'clicking" noises, in fact its a faint clicking noise that goes completely silent after about 5 seconds of turning the key. I was going to remove the fuel line and check out the pumps output after 30 seconds of turning the key (like I've read in the archives), but honestly I don't think it's working at all. So my question is. Do I have a fuel pump issue, or is it my ignition switch? I assume ignition switch since I hear next to nothing when turning the key over. I'm not sure what else to mention, any suggestions would be appreciated. My cars specs are mentioned in the first post of this thread.

I was just looking at vintage skateboards on ebay. That one looks great. I still skate every now and then. I started in '87 or '88 I think.

Stumbled across this photographer with some great photos from the Le Mans Classic. Not much BMW content but still some really awesome images. Just thought I'd share. http://www.laurentnivalle.fr/LMC2010.html Regards, Jason

Stumbled across this photographer with some great photos from the Le Mans Classic. Not much BMW content but still some really awesome images. Just thought I'd share. http://www.laurentnivalle.fr/LMC2010.html Regards, Jason

my baikal

I have a set of 5 of these wheels, 15 X 6 ET 12. Im willing to let the spare one go, it's in excellent shape with center cap. No curbage or bends. $130.00 sound good? Email me at jason @ fantasticplanetrock dot com *EDIT* The wheel is a replica, not genuine Alpina.

I've installed the TEP setup earlier this year. From seat of the pants dyno'ing I noticed a big difference in contrast to my 32/36. Never been in a car with a 38, so I cant speak on that. A friend told me it almost felt like dual 40's were under the hood. Again I never drove a car with dual side drafts, so can't confirm. BTW, I have an E21 head with stock cam, tii dizzy, turbo manifold, and stock exhaust... Waiting to swap out head with my port and polished e12 head with reground cam.