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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    I have managed to get the strut out from under the fender, but it requires two people and a 2x4 to pry down on the control arm. One to pry, one to ease strut top under fender lip. Remove sway bar, calliper as I recall. Eliminates need to coax rusty ball joint bolts out.
  2. Hans
    What are you thinking of connecting to the exhaust?
  3. Hans
    perhaps Mr. K might have a suggested target for total advance. The other thing I discovered on my set-up was a bad plug wire, which caused intermittent misfire which I blamed on the carbs. As others have said, most of your carb problems are electrical.
  4. Hans
    Isn't there a problem sending a different core back?
  5. Hans
    Isn't there a problem sending a different core back?
  6. Hans
    AS I recall the original ti was set at 39 deg total advance, but that may have been with fuel of the day. I spent a lot of time fiddling with twin webers chasing similar problem only to find that my problem was not enough advance (thanks to Jeff Ireland). Did the total advance setting - about 33 deg all in - and things improved immediately. In this case, maybe the advance is close enough, and real problem lies with air leak or carb adjustment. That said, I can't imagine how the car would run on 65 deg advance.
  7. Hans
    the rotor should turn a bit and then snap back. That is the advance function. How did you set at 31? Maybe try a bit more if your motor is modded: I've heard 36 for race motor . Or perhaps you've got an air leak/carb adjustment issue.
  8. Hans
    I was by Murcia two weeks ago going to Granada from Barcelona. Any old BMW is rare in Spain from what I could see.
  9. Hans
    Some faint bell ringing on this problem: condenser.
  10. Hans
    which orange bit are we talking about here? The rotor?
  11. Hans
    BMAparts. Free shipping.
  12. Hans
    I'm with TobyB: it would be wives' as a possessive. Old wives believe in old wives' tails.
  13. Hans
    what kind of new starter are we talking about here?
  14. Hans
    I would seeing if his milling machine will allow installing valve cover, so as to get front cover aligned at the top. You might also remind him of the torque settings for front cover bolts.
  15. Hans
    plug wires? valve adjustment?
  16. Hans
    Perhaps revisit the rear brake adjustment. How worn are the drums?
  17. Hans
    I still used a pressure regulator with mechanical pump. Then I added an electric pump to prime carbs after storage. Then I decided to just use electric. Its in the trunk.
  18. Hans
    Don't forget to send the front timing cover with the head for machining. I'd get the bores done to match the pistons, numbered for each tube, to required clearances. So the 318 oil pump can be modified to fit by changing pick-ups?
  19. Hans
    If the cable from motor to chassis is original, try replacing it.
  20. Hans
    As suggested above, if you have a pointer pin on the front of the engine, you may find it easier to see the mark there. You'd need to paint on a new mark on the pulley. I used a plastic container lid to transpose 24 and 33 deg. marks to existing TDC mark on the pulley. There is a school of thought that supports setting max advance, which if memory serves, means getting full advance (33 deg or so) by 3000 rpm. This is easier than looking for that darn ball. Haynes manual has several advance settings for the ball.
  21. Hans
    perhaps put the old hose back on if it worked. Are we talking 4 or 5 speed here?
  22. Hans
    Italian older carbs would use one turn out if memory serves. Fuel pressure regulator is a good idea. I recently found a leaky float that had caused all sorts of weird running. Might be useful to check float levels and give them a shake. But as above, timing is critical. OT is TDC.
  23. Hans
    I've seen rad flush products that you put in and then drive for a few days. Seems reasonable. The rad is fairly easy to get out and haul into a rad shop for testing. This doesn't sound like thermostat problem.
  24. Hans
    I'd be checking fan belt tension and age first. Glazed and/or loose belt won't help. Then try spraying water through rad fins from the back. Engine cold/off. Check for large bugs on the front. Then try system flush. When was rad last flushed? Take it out and take to a rad shop.
  25. Hans
    If it sat for 10 yrs, I'd be checking in the tank for crud.
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