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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    I'm guessing the puff of smoke is from the ad hoc ground connection. I'd put on new cable, clean all connection surfaces.
  2. Hans
    If you're going to pull the tank anyway, a siphon works well. Therer are variations with accordion pump to get things rolling in case you don't like the taste.
  3. Hans
    TobyB wins the leaky float as a prize. Fortunately a new brass float assembly was in the parts department and car runs MUCH better.
  4. Hans
    Thanks lads. Tomorrow we investigate
  5. Hans
    Twin 45 DCOEs, ignition on, electric fuel pump working, fuel drips from #2 barrel venturi locking bolt on bottom of carb. So fuel is getting into the barrel. I haven tested fuel pressure yet, but float levels were adjusted recently. Needle valve?
  6. Hans
    Depends on how pitted the two surfaces are. I clean up with rotary wire brush. It's a little insurance. I've had seeping out the small end when the bellows wasn't sitting flush with shoulder. Not sure which way CV joint shaft goes.
  7. Hans
    May be a bit late now, but there is/was a very thin O ring in the big metal cap that fits between the boot and the the main housing. I've rescued a few, got a local bearing shop to make a few, either way I use some silicone in there. May be a bit late now, but there is/was a very thin O ring in the big metal cap that fits between the boot and the the main housing. I've rescued a few, got a local bearing shop to make a few, either way I use some silicone in there after cleaning out rust, etc..
  8. Hans
    75W90 is good. There is a quantity listed in the shop manual or perhaps back of owner's manual. Use a funnel. Boot should be a little over half full when lying flat as a rough indicator. I've used a metal shoe horn to get the boot over the T. I'm looking for some of those asymmetrical CV joints if anyone has some.
  9. Hans
    I seem to recall previous discussion on the forum re later alternators.
  10. Hans
    It would take a pretty solid whack to move the front subframe and/or frame rails. If the PO replaced a section of frame rail, something might be askew if the new part wasn't positioned properly. Equally, a new nose section and lower apron that wasn't lined up properly might look odd when compared with a perfectly true subframe.. Pics would help... as above, how does the car drive? Is it crabbing down the road, or pulling to one side? It would take a pretty solid whack to move the front subframe and/or frame rails. If the PO replaced a section of frame rail, something might be askew if the new part wasn't positioned properly. Equally, a new nose section and lower apron that wasn't lined up properly might look odd when compared with a perfectly true subframe.. Pics would help... as above, how does the car drive? Is it crabbing down the road, or pulling to one side? It would take a pretty solid whack to move the front subframe and/or frame rails. If the PO replaced a section of frame rail, something might be askew if the new part wasn't positioned properly. Equally, a new nose section and lower apron that wasn't lined up properly might look odd when compared with a perfectly true subframe.. Pics would help... as above, how does the car drive? Is it crabbing down the road, or pulling to one side?
  11. Hans
    As above, what makes you sure its the clutch that went?
  12. Hans
    we need a picture of your car to see what exactly doesn't line up.
  13. Hans
    what is the idle rpm?
  14. Hans
    I'm sure this is obvious, but worth repeating: have the car pointed somewhere empty when you do this.
  15. Hans
    I don't think later blocks had the pin on the front, and I was not aware of that flange being appropriate. Best to use the flywheel, and then perhaps transpose mark to front pulley in a convenient spot.
  16. Hans
    I was thinking of using some silicone grease on the rubber control arm/front bushings to aid installation. Any advice?
  17. Hans
    Removing front bushing on 2002 is easy with subframe in place - lever out the back with one end of tension rod. Putting a new one in is another matter - one solution is to use urethane two piece bushing. I have a 2000CS with more clearance. Took more heat and a bigger air gun at my local tech. Buster the breaker bar was just winding up the bushings.
  18. Hans
    Very ingenious bit of wood working,Mintgrun. Be prepared to cycle through heat, penetrating oil to get them loose. i put a dab of anti-seize on adjusters.
  19. Hans
    thanks. I'll get Buster out of the tool cabinet.. The other end came off fine, as well as the big bolt, which I assume have been in there since 1967.
  20. Hans
    I'm trying to get the front tension ("Z") rods out so I can replace the bushings. The nut on the front has so far resisted PD Blaster and impact gun. It's currently soaking. Is it safe to use a breaker bar on that nut? I'm concerned about shearing the Z arm.
  21. Hans
    bingo . Thanks. Should have thought of heater section.
  22. Hans
    I can't find these on the on-line parts catalogues. Can someone point me to the correct diagram or provide part number? Thanks
  23. Hans
    I'd be cleaning the pulley shaft with brake clean after the emory cloth sanding.
  24. Hans
    This has been covered before - maybe search under diff noise, etc. Before attacking the diff, check all attachment bolts for half shafts, rear wheel nuts, etc. Get under car with wheels off the ground, car in neutral. Try turning drive shaft to see if you can replicate. One clunk or clunk - clunk - clunk?
  25. Hans
    If the starter is turning, it is grounded. But poor connections will limit flow of juice. There should be a ground strap from block to frame/old battery tray. All those main power cables need clean connection points. Also check battery level as above.
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