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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    That air box (well, tube) looks odd. At least it would be on a 2000CS. Upside down? On the CS, both end snorkels are up. That said, your quality of restoration is very impressive. That will be beautiful. And AC! Bloody luxury.
  2. Hans
    Better peek in there to see if there are empty brackets. It may be trans specific, which would mean major excavations (booster, etc.). Looks like the brake pedal is different, so you'd need those too at minimum. It may be a bigger job than meets the eye. Having said that, a 5 speed overdrive conversion would be nice if you plan to keep the car.
  3. Hans
    What I like about the foam tape is that it compresses easily so you don't strain the fastening bolts. I also used it on the gas tank rim.
  4. Hans
    +on pulling the sender. Sounds like the screen may be blocked. Just pull it up SLOWLY to let it drain into the tank. If you've got crud in the lines, there's crud in the tank. I'd pull it out, rinse and drain. Or buy a case of filters. Ethanol turns into sludge, so if you store the car, find some additive. Or find Ethanol free gas.
  5. Hans
    Perhaps a closed cell foam tape. I think that's what I used. One advantage is it easy to remove the heater. If you go the strip caulk route, make sure you get a continuous seal. It needs to be waterproof.
  6. Hans
    search on Hackmechanic - there was an extensive thread on that issue.
  7. Hans
    AS far as I know, the test for a voltage regulator is by voltmeter. It should show about 14V.
  8. Hans
    + on Brake-Clean. You should be able to see the valve seals thru the springs with a flashlight. Much easier while head's off. I'd check just in case, but the upside down ring wouldn't be working as intended. You checked the other two rings I assume.
  9. Hans
    I thought I'd seen that pan maneuver somewhere. I have 2000CS which has a less intrusive cross-member location - the pan comes out. Can't remember if I had to jack engine slightly.
  10. Hans
    Guess I was thinking of Bavaria where you turn crank to certain spot, swing pan out. So yes, if you've gone that far, keep on going I suppose. Just be careful tapping out piston - you need to guide the rod end thru the bore while not dropping the whole assembly on the floor.
  11. Hans
    If you have the equipment to pull engine, maybe. But that means disconnecting everything, pulling rad, and then having the pleasure of getting the engine to re-mate with trans. Yes, easier to do on an engine stand, but you still need a helper to assist with piston birthing. A hoist would be nice to get the head off. I admit I've not done this with the engine in situ, but the only challenge I can see is keeping the rod away from the journal and cyl wall because its on an angle. Jgerock - why did you need 2x4?
  12. Hans
    If you get an 02, buy a Haynes manual.
  13. Hans
    Good point about danger of pushing pedal all the way to floor bleeding old master. I usually put a block being pedal to limit travel unless using pressure bleeder.
  14. Hans
    You need to pull the head and pan, oil pump. Best to have a helper. Get motor to TDC to start. Then wiggle the two low rod caps off - CAREFULLY- and put some plastic tubing over the rod bolts and gently tap off the crank and then up the bore. Helper should catch the piston as it pops out. Re-install, rotate to get other two down (feed timing chain by hand) and repeat. Helper goes underneath to guide the two plastic tubes over the crank journal while you tap down the spring compressor. Just observe usual procedures for piston install.
  15. Hans
    Hmmm. I looking at Haynes and the notch on middle ring faces down.
  16. Hans
    I'd be tempted to just to pull the pistons out with the block in the car. I doubt you've driven far enough to make a difference. If that's your problem.
  17. Hans
    Normally, the idea is to start with the cyl furthest away from the master and work back in order. As I recall, for RHD, Hayne says to start with cyl on remote servo first, then the rears. AS for calipers, I can't see why you wouldn't do them like BMW calipers with 3 nipples - top, lower in, lower out.
  18. Hans
    Good idea on bleeding again. You know the sequence I assume - RR, LR, RF, LF. And then sequence for calipers - but I'm not sure about Volvo ones - do they have one bleeder? You need to move a bit of fluid to get fresh stuff to the back. I have a vague recollection of something special with those dual boosters...RHD?? Sometimes starting motor and thus activating booster will firm things up.
  19. Hans
    I've heard of old units failing when a combined with a new caliper, etc. But to clarify, the pedal goes down half way and stops, feels hard, but slowly sinks if you keep pushing? Have you tried it with the motor running? A spongy pedal is just that - it never feels solid.
  20. Hans
    Something about seeing a doctor after four hours... Anyway, I'm not sure what effect the dual boosters would have, but if the pedal sinks slowly to the floor, and there are no leaks, chances are the master is shot. If it just feels spongy, bleed on.
  21. Hans
    Looks like a nice Canadian car. And people are asking about using their 02 in the snow??
  22. Hans
    Was the shop who did the head assembly familiar with BMW? Perhaps another guru can explain the difference/interchangeability between old/new style guides and seals. But I wonder if that's your problem. I think you can view the seals thru the springs to see if they are all fully seated. BMW engines run at very tight and precise clearances. Machine shops used to rebuilding US taxi motors may not be a good choice. I'd still do the compression test to see what the rings are doing. You might as well drive it a bit, monitor oil consumption and hope its rings bedding in. As to break-in, I'd keep it below 4000rpm for the first 500 - 1000miles.
  23. Hans
    It sounds a bit excessive. Assuming your piston to bore clearances were good, what about valve seals? If memory serves, there are old and new style seals; old and new style guides. And the seals have to be banged on there. You may want to do a compression test to rule out rings.
  24. Hans
    Now that is a well picked carcass.
  25. Hans
    We all started from scratch.
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