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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. google elring, sniff around and you'll find this: http://www.elring.de/en/service/online-catalogs.html Get into that, online catalogue, your engine, "documents". You'll find instructions for angle torque. I seem to recall asking Mike Miller and he said old 3 stage was fine. That's what I did.
  2. So Carl, how long do you use razor blades?
  3. Much like buying a helmet for track days: how much is your head worth. $10 seems a bit "thin" for something that stops your car. No need to buy original BMW part however - the same suppliers/brands are often available from places like BavAuto, BMAparts, etc., at a substantial discount. Perhaps Mr. Blunt can help you out.
  4. Yes, mlytle is correct. I misspoke. The shim is specific to the trailing arm.
  5. If you use a matched set of hub shaft and carrier, use the spacer/shim that came with it. If you put one hub in another carrier, you may have to perform the measurement procedure shown in the manual to determine the appropriate spacer thickness.
  6. A few things to check (altho you have to wonder if the PO noticed it too). first I'd check all fuel line fittings/clamps. Run your finger under the banjo joints that connect rubber line to carb body. DCOEs like a low fuel pressure setting - some people use a pressure regulator to keep fuel pressure from over-powering the floats. I'd get this sorted out before driving a lot.
  7. If you are concerned about using test light method, you could use #1 plug wire with spare plug. You should get spark as #1 reaches TDC on firing stroke. That's close enough to start motor. Basically, regardless of points/pertronix, rotor should point to #1 wire on cap with engine at TDC, #1 firing position. Then use timing light. With test lamp, light should come on as motor passes TDC
  8. Looking for one or two 40 angled air horn stacks Location: FL
  9. What model/year of E21 uses the master cylinder with four outlets?
  10. Looking for two DCOE 40 angled air horn/stacks Location: FL
  11. You're talking about the pipe coming out of the fuel tank? Going 3 feet to a steel line?
  12. Rust. Otherwise, a service history would be nice. Is it a runner?
  13. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/80670-solex-phh-40-float-level-procedure-and-setting/ 3/4" sounds faintly familiar
  14. 3M stuff, or Acetone if you want to get rough. Scotchpads handy for scrubbing after application of chemicals.
  15. Good points Mike 472. I use it with trepidation, more to just crack the bolt a bit. Then move to hand tools for more "feel". But yes, important to get bit firmly seated.
  16. You could try a regulator, but with 40 DCOEs, I noticed excess pressure more at steady cruise - engine got jerky. Never had a problem with original Solex PHH - it was the spindles that finished them. There is a process for setting float levels in the shop manual that uses some fancy plumbing and graduated flasks, etc. Somewhere I found the target depth of fuel in the bowl. Right now, can't remember where. I had 40PHHs rebuilt, but couldn't get them to run. I suspect it was the float levels. You might Google around for static fuel level in the bowl and use the chop stick method to measure. Your problem sounds like it might be related to float levels too high. Or needle valves not shutting.
  17. We just recently got PB Blaster in Canada. Apparently no rusty bits here. I seem to recall using the air gun to get started, then the old out a bit, back in a bit, out a bit more, by hand.
  18. or put the wheel on with the brake drum cocked
  19. there you go! I trust you have the PB Blaster at hand. Go slow.
  20. But I believe that plastic sleeve will not work on the fuel pump outlet if that's what you were suggesting. Easier to use the dual size fuel filter.
  21. Original cars ran nicely without pressure regulator. How did you set the float levels after rebuild?
  22. Can't give you the number, but it was a common size since I had it in my set.
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