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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Haynes suggests removing the cyl after bleeding and the pushing the rod back in all the way and release slowly. It also talks about pushing a blade between the cyl and the bell housing to scrape the rod as it extends to verify amount of travel (i.e., read length of scrape on rod.) It should move at least 20mm.
  2. Hans
    So you're saying that the arm is one inch in, and slave rod would have 1 1/2" of travel (2 1/2" total)?
  3. Hans
    Did you offset they rings gaps?
  4. Hans
    Dumb question, but will it go in backwards?
  5. Hans
    Very cool! Not something everybody will want to do, but works on E36, so why not? by the way, and not to hijack this thread, but what color is that?
  6. Hans
    When you say the head was almost off, did you really mean the head, or the valve cover? Have you adjusted valves? Could be valve related, but get timing right first. Maybe not too late for Santa to bring a Haynes manual. Look on front pulley for a line with OT stamped beside it.
  7. Hans
    Search on "2002 cabriolet project ignition problems " and "first timer timing questions" on this forum. You will detailed info on how to check timing. I'd check that first.
  8. Hans
    I wouldn't go bending the down pipe while its attached to the car. Out of curiosity, why didn't you check the flange alignment using the actual drive shaft?
  9. Hans
    Try the measurement as suggested. That should give some clues. I would also have your trusty assistant do the old pedal push bleed as well. Keep in mind you may be moving bubbles all the way from the master so you will need to pass a good amount of fluid - so to speak. Just because it works off the car doesn't mean it will push the arm. Perhaps the wrong TO bearing came in the right box. I faintly recall something about changing the tip on the rod.
  10. Hans
    Or get a rubber covered pad for your floor jack.
  11. Hans
    I would rather trade off a few scars on the frame rails in return for having the top of the stand get a better grip. I'd be concerned about the car sliding off those wood blocks.
  12. Hans
    I support the paint-it-what-YOU-like advice. A solid restored car will always hold its value. Enjoy the car and worry about resale later.
  13. Hans
    I have a vague recollection of problems with the throw out arm - a missing piece of plastic? Or not attached at one end? Anybody able to add to this? Isn't there some way of looking in there?
  14. Hans
    I think you'd see fluid coming out. But put a little clamp on it if in doubt. Back to the bleeding.
  15. Hans
    Are you using a rubber hose? Is it new?
  16. Hans
    The wrong throw-out bearing will do that, but your part number appears to be correct. Those cyl are not easy to bleed. Bavauto sells a jig that lets you bleed it off the car.
  17. Hans
    Did you also clean the terminals on the big cables where they attach to the starter and block? Always pull neg battery terminal, then check other ends.
  18. Hans
    I believe the brackets are there - what you need is the pedal and all the attaching bits. I think the brake pedal is the same for manual or auto. Try realoem for interchange possibilities.
  19. Hans
    I'd be looking at the cables and connections between battery and starter, and block to ground/neg. terminal. Pull negative terminal, clean it inside and the post, remove other big cable connections and clean terminals. Wire brush, emery paper, Make sure everything is shiny before re-connecting terminals. What did the battery test at?
  20. Hans
    Just to clarify, if you go that route, the idea is slowly rev up the motor until the dizzy stops advancing. That should be around 3k rpm. Then you adjust to get it to stop advancing at around 34 deg.
  21. Hans
    I gotta get one of those excitation currents..
  22. Hans
    Depending on year, master brake cyl and booster were different arrangement. And early 1600s were 6v as I recall. I gather some 2002s had a mechanical clutch, but 1600 did.
  23. Hans
    I'd at least get the handbrake working and make a big sign to stick on the dash. If memory serves - and this goes back a lonnng way, my euro 1600-2 had a one pipe master on the pedal box and a distribution cylinder on the booster. Is that your set-up?
  24. Hans
    Good point, eurotrash, on setting for total advance. I though it best to get the basic setting done first as a benchmark. But yes, between 33 -36 deg total advance by about 3k rpm is the target. I just painted a line at 33 on my front pulley, but I got to get one of those new fangled timing lights. Are we dealing with a vacuum advance distributor here? You could also just add 34 deg to OT mark
  25. Hans
    You should see 13-14V at idle, mid 12v at rest. To test battery, disconnect ground and hook up volt meter with engine off. It should hold at mid 12. If it slowly drops, battery is suspect. If it holds, hook up ground strap and do test again, comparing numbers after say 24hrs. This is to look for parasitic drain. You can also use a 10amp tester to look for draw. It should be minimal.
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