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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    You might want to search for the recent threads on that piece of metal stuck to the inside rear quarter panel behind the wheel arch. Potential for rust underneath that may come through later.
  2. Hans
    I'd rather not have them training on my car. I had to hunt around for someone who was familiar with old BMW installation. So yes, remove the locking bead strip, and maybe put some cord under the rubber to hold it out from the paint. They'll need to clean under there.
  3. Hans
    Play nicely, boys and girls. Try a universal plastic in line filter with different ends, or buy a reducer - I think Pierce has one.
  4. Hans
    I would remove them - your body man will thank you if he doesn't have to work around them. Plus its best to get the holes painted.Maybe think about replacing worn ones. I would remove the side marker lights and have the holes filled. Are you having front/'rear windshield removed?" Good idea.
  5. Hans
    Be gentle! Best to get some of those trim removing paddles from Harbor Frt, etc, so you can slide in and lift between the door and the back of the plastic snaps. A screw driver works but not as secure.
  6. Hans
    I emailed him direct
  7. Hans
    I misread the part about pushing the pedal. And yes, a new master is a good idea if adding new items on the corners.
  8. Hans
    Oh, I thought we were trying to save the tree....
  9. Hans
    "Hmmm. Nice place to sharpen the old claws!" Where did you get the samples?
  10. Hans
    Can you clarify your bleeding procedure? The idea is to have a helper pump the pedal a few times and then hold it down, at which point you open the bleed nipple. When flow slows, close nipple and helper releases pedal. Repeat. With old master, advice is to avoid pushing it right to the end. Put something under pedal to keep it off the floor.
  11. Hans
    Just make sure your adjustment is holding - worn bushings can let it go loose again.
  12. Hans
    On the other hand, after years of pumping the gas peddle and coaxing the beast into life, I finally installed a longer choke cable to reach around the front of the engine and operate cold start valves. What a difference.
  13. Hans
    Assuming that it ran fine and now it doesn't, I'd skip the ignition test for the moment and look in the fuel delivery system for accumulated sludge. Try blowing out the idle circuit jets. Pull one carb top and see what's in the bowl. Then I'd do a quick review of ignition side: points, dist cap, maybe plugs, timing. could just be the accumulated impact of overdue tune-up, or, something blocking idle side of carbs.
  14. Hans
    I have the same problem understanding how the rear shock mounts would affect steering return, but FAQ is about discovery! Seems to me that either something is binding enough to prevent the steering from returning to center on its own, or the caster that promotes that return got screwed up. Caster is not adjustable on 2002 short of major whack. I'm not sure if too much toe-out would do that - I think you'd notice wonky/darty steering first. How did you set toe-in? I can't see that mildly lowered springs would change caster enough to notice, but I don't know. So, a couple of thoughts: perhaps the re-assembly of the strut tops got messed up so that the spring cup is binding on the strut bearing. There are some washers in there. Strut bearing/s could be worn and binding. My E28 did that. Sometimes it would snap back because bearing didn't move, or if it did move, it wouldn't come back to center. You could try having someone turn the steering wheel while you look in with flash light to see if strut/spring are turning together.
  15. Hans
    and it takes a sealing ring
  16. Hans
    In case this wasn't covered, you HAVE to get the head surfaced with the front cover attached. If you're worried about CR being too high, get the thicker head gasket.
  17. Hans
    The pic of the base appears to show a gap which might explain some of your issues. I'd get a new base gasket, and while ordering that, might as well get a rebuild kit. Then take the top off the carb and see what's floating in the bowl. You may have accumulated gunk that gets stuck in the jets. Have you checked fuel filter? Rebuild videos on Youtube.
  18. Hans
    I think it is a tight fit without angle adapter
  19. Hans
    Did this start after you installed springs?
  20. Hans
    You could try a wet compression test: squirt a small bit of oil in the spark plug hole before taking reading. That will confirm whether rings are the culprits. But assuming #4 is a gasket issue, and that you can live with 100 across the board for now, try just doing the head. It would be false economy to not get it checkedfor warp or crack.
  21. Hans
    Definitely Klasse-guy.
  22. Hans
    AS I recall, RIAL was common aftermarket wheel supplier for BMW. You might find new caps on ebay from time to time. However, if caps still stay fixed in wheels, try getting new stick-on wheel cap roundels from BMW and just stick em on the old caps. measure Rial caps, search for nearest size and order away. They came in various diameters over the years.
  23. Hans
    Somebody familiar with M10 heads can check arms and shafts - they can be recycled if not worn.
  24. Hans
    Not good. Too much of a spread between high and low. You should see well over 100 across the board. You can try with throttle open, but I think the message will be the same. You may have cooked the block too.
  25. Hans
    I switched to electric because my mechanical pump seemed to take a long time to prime the carbs. No problems so far. Used a regulator. In your case, as suggested confirm it works.
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