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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    OT is German for TDC. There are two possible places where you will find this on the engine - either the front pulley and/or on the flywheel visible through a hole in the bell housing above the starter. On the flywheel, as shown in the pics, you will also see a "ball" pressed into the flywheel marked Z, which again is something German for "timing point". With a timing light, you want to see the ball on the flywheel through the hole at around 2200 rpm (I don't have the specs in front of me but that's close enough). On the front pulley, there may or may not be a Z mark, but you can paint one on. To your question, by 1000 rpm, advance has already started, so if you set it on the OT, you do not have enough advance. You can use the OT to set what is known as static advance, which is done witht the engine off. Turning motor "by hand", the idea is to have # 1 fire as OT goes by. Harbor Freight sells a timing light that will allow you to set advance based on the OT mark. Do you have vacuum advance on your car? Someone else can advise on whether you set timing with that disconnected. I only know non-vacuum advance set-up. If you're going to keep your 2002, might I suggest you ask Santa for a Haynes manual which shows how to do this and gives the correct specs for your model.
  2. Hans
    Were the two links to your post or someone else's experience? If yours, then I would doubt you had two bad out of box MCs. So I'd be looking at bleeding. I think with a new MC you're better to do some old fashioned pedal pumping, even if you have a pressure bleeder. Be prepared to run thru half a bottle. For the moment, I'd focus on getting the single circuit system working in order to move the car. So if the MC is new, then a good bleeding might do it.
  3. Hans
    Ditto
  4. Hans
    Back to the brakes: Assuming there is fluid in the system, there aren't many explanations for the pedal sinking. Either there is a leak somewhere - which should be obvious to the eye (rear cylinders, caliper seals, out the back of the master into the cockpit/booster); the master cylinder is shot (the fluid just passes back over the seals as they move down the bore); or system needs more effective bleeding. In the case described in those links, I 'd say it wasn't bled enough (some folks "bench bleed" a master before installation). The claim that it "cured itself" may indicate some air finally burped out of the master. Now in your case, one might be tempted to convert the system to the later dual circuit spec, which is safer and parts are available at reasonable prices. But that means adding two more lines all the way to the calipers, different calipers, prob. rear cyls, etc. Do-able, but what about your experience level/time constraints? The other way is to try to recycle the single circuit system for now. Perhaps the 320 cyl will fit as suggested, Carl Nelson may know. The pushrod lengths have to be the same, I expect. Or perhaps track down a rebuild kit (assuming the bore isn't pitted).
  5. Hans
    If just one door does it, see what's different with the other. Sounds like some sort of detent is missing? Also have a look in the bottom of the door for any odd bits...
  6. Hans
    So you stuck the fuel hose directly into the top of the tank and still got bubbles?
  7. Hans
    Looks good. A little Brasso once a year... I would have used a smaller hose clamp, but that works. I used Home Depot PVC plumbing bits to cobble up adapters for the air horns on a pair of Weber 40s - a perfect fit for the ti style round rubber bellows.
  8. Hans
    Which may explain why it fried. If main ground is flakey, other grounds pick up the load. Best to check block to ground straps for clean connections.
  9. Hans
    Until you've gained some experience, I'd be inclined to start with a dwell meter and timing light to get it set properly. Then you can develop an ear. Too much advance is not a good ides, even thought the engine may sound "good".
  10. Hans
    The graphite may not loosen up a gummed tumbler set. Good for locks that work though.
  11. Hans
    Try putting some "Never-seize" Copper-Slip?? on the pipe ends.
  12. Hans
    I think there is a special lock lubricant spray. Don't over do it.
  13. Hans
    I modified a stock pin and plastic tube to fit Momo hub.
  14. Hans
    People either love or hate Pertronix. I'm quite happy and no points to adjust. That said, points are fine as long as you keep them adjusted. Best to buy a dwell meter and timing light (harbor Frt. will do), feeler gauges, and follow the directions in the link. Or buy a Haynes manual. Interestingly, the link to 2002 restoration speaks of 30 deg, rather than the 60 or so deg. you need. I expect they were using a dwell meter for 6 or 8 cyl, in which case you use 8 cyl setting and multiply by 2.
  15. Hans
    A wire or cable that's taken the load of a short to ground will show signs of burnt or bubbled rubber. They may also melt inside - certainly a small wire. I don't know what the test for a shorted battery would be - start with a volt meter I suppose. It might recover with a slow charge, I suppose. Be very careful charging batteries. If this example, if the carb horn shorted the positive starter terminal to the engine block, you'd need to check (or just replace) hot lead to starter and ground strap from block to ground/battery. Those would take most of the load. If it grounded to the chassis, then just the hot lead to starter. If you don't have a Haynes 2002 manual, ask Santa for one. Much useful info in there.
  16. Hans
    Go to PexSupply.com, search for copper caps, you will see what I was suggesting.
  17. Hans
    I wouldn't want to find out whether one of those bosses would snap, but I appreciate the challenge of immobilizing the flange. If you have it out of the car, it might be better to haul it off to someone who has a gun and pay $10. Yes, electric impact is handy when I don't want to wait for the compressor to fire up, and comes in handy around the house (does a nice job on lag bolts if you're building a deck).
  18. Hans
    I'd expect ignition problems to be more obvious during cold starts, so I'd be looking elsewhere first. The condition of battery cable, connections, and related bits could also be a factor, but more because there is some other problem which requires a long crank to overcome. Again, you'd sort of expect that to cause cold start problems too. I'm not familiar with the Weber hot start problem that Mike mentions, but normally the mind would turn to heat related issues, such as gas evaporating in the bowl of an overheated carb, or in the fuel filter (because it's too close to the engine), or perhaps the carb to manifold gasket. Does it smell likes its flooded? What's the choke doing when you're trying a hot start?
  19. Hans
    I've seen various plumbing caps that are designed to cap off a pipe. AS long as its long enough to slide into the heater hose for two clamps, it should hold. I am envious of people that don't need heaters.
  20. Hans
    I don't think an electric impact will make a dent on that nut. Mine only goes to 140. Thanks to Harbor Frt, a decent compressor and air impact are not that expensive. Also I'm not sure I'd want to wedging the flange against the transmission as shown above.
  21. Hans
    Or the battery. have you checked voltage?
  22. Hans
    Home depot plumbing?
  23. Hans
    Once you've got the timing set, don't mess with it. Hopefully its back where #1 plug fires when #1 cyl is TDC in firing position. Next, plugs should be 0.28 to .030 to start with stock ignition. You really should replace that carb to manifold gasket. Way too much gas going in the motor. Maybe its the accumulation of trying to start it and pumping the throttle too much. Or it may be the float needle is stuck open. Normally, on cold start, you pump the pedal once - that releases the choke plate, which should then be closed, foot off the gas and turn it over. Once it fires, use gas to keep it going. So for now, clean up the gas, re-gap plugs, put on a fresh gasket if you have one, have your lovely assistant turn it over with gas pedal down maybe 1/2", squirt starting fluid down carb.
  24. Hans
    Mlytle - I thought so, but I was wondering if that nipple on top was to locate in one direction for a reason.
  25. Hans
    good advice. I always keep the extinguisher handy when doing a "first-fire " on a motor. We're talking a shot glass at most. But I'd just shoot a little Quikstart in there and see if it fires.
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