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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. I would wire brush the drum to hub mating surface while you're in there. If something is rubbing, you're going to see bright spots.But you might want to try different drums.
  2. Best to get the head checked while its off. But I'd be concerned about other damage to block.
  3. I'd jack up the rear end and turn each wheel to see if it occurs. Otherwise remove drums and make sure mounting face is clean and on the hub, and that hey seat cleanly. I wonder if the turning of the drums got screwed up somehow.
  4. Cutting ring does just that - makes a groove on the head. Great for high compression motor, but not so good if you have to re-use the head. Overkill for a street motor, me thinks. I've used Reinz gaskets - I think they supplied OEM.
  5. I'm pretty sure the injection pump belt is toothed, so unlikely that slipping. Maybe some other issue with tii belt?? Timing belt is actually a chain, so not that. I'd start with fan belt: was it replaced last year? Check tension, maybe remove belt, clean pulleys with Brake Klean, and take some emery paper to the pulleys to deglaze them. Make sure alt mounting bushing haven't failed and let alt. run at an angle. WHile belt is off, check alt and water pump for smooth turning.
  6. The outdoor "warehouse" is amazing enough. Plus, he knows where everything is!
  7. Do you have sealed beams or old style dish and bulb with glass cover?
  8. 2002tii site has wiring diagrams. Or if you are going to keep the beast, order a Haynes manual ASAP.
  9. I'd try Carl Nelson. he has shelves full of weird stuff. Time to start hoarding steering boxes.
  10. No hints in Blue Book as to size. Appears to be two parts - shell and race. Perhaps Carl Nelson at La Jolla ind. Did you try search on FAQ? I'm having a deja vu.
  11. If you can get the numbers off the bearing, a local bearing shop may be able to source it.
  12. Karmann invented rust and licensed it to FIAT. A lot of metal went into mine. Did you keep the mould for those pockets? Sorry to hijack this thread!
  13. World Upholstery. Have your credit card ready. Hey Lars, where did you find those CS door panel pockets?
  14. If the pedal is moving the arm back and forth, and has some resistance, the disc may be stuck to either the plate or the flywheel. You can try popping it. Get car pointed down the street or a long driveway, start car in neutral, let engine warm up, turn it off, put car in first gear (reverse works too but harder to steer and do the following), keep clutch pedal fully depressed (released), start car. It will start rolling. Jab the gas pedal a few times, being alert to get off the gas in a hurry once it releases. I've also seen it done by getting up some speed and slamming on the brakes (clutch released). Take appropriate precautions for all of this.
  15. I agree. It is unreasonable to run up a $1750 bill without consulting the client beforehand.
  16. For the price of a new one, I wouldn't fool around trying to rebuild one. As to your symptoms, one would think that screeching with blip - rather than all the time - would be caused by belt slipping, because it was loose/glazed/unhappy. If either the alt. or pump were seizing, why only with blip? Not saying your pump isn't bad, but seems odd. Does the pump spin freely? I'd be cleaning up the pulleys with some fine emery paper and brake clean. Then making sure the belt stays tensioned. I/2" deflection as I recall.
  17. The stuck disc seemed to make the most sense. I guess it doesn't take much "adhesive" with that much pressure clamping it together. With hindsight, we should have suggested starting it in gear with pedal down to try and pop it loose.
  18. My cat Mr. Beau enjoyed the feline content. Attached is pic of book and typical page. I would like to get sections 32/33/34. Thanks kile - I think I have those in the shop manual blue book. Always useful.
  19. If the alternator mounts are worn - including the end of the support rod at the front cover - the belt won't stay adjusted. lSo the belt may be glazed.
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