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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    OK, so you're getting a spark as #1 gets to TDC? If so, might be good idea to check condition and gap on plugs. Then it should fire. You appear to have the plug wires in the right order; make sure they pushed on tight. Then its over to the fuel side. If it hasn't run in a long time, try spraying a bit of carb cleaner or "QuikStart" down the carb throats. If you're sure the float bowl is try, you can try pulling the fuel line from the out side of the fuel pump, put a small funnel in the hose, hold it above the carb and pour one or two ounces of gas in. Don't get carried away - the bowl doesn't hold much. Make sure you have a fully charged battery.
  2. Hans
    Also check the "top hat" mount where the spring sits on the trailing arm. They rust.
  3. Hans
    Dumb question, but what happens if the rt side mount is put in backwards?
  4. Hans
    The line on the cam flange should be at the top as in the photo when engine is at TDC for #1. At that point, #2 will be at the bottom of its stroke. If in that photo, you are not at TDC, then an adjustment is required before turning the engine over any more. Was the head off? Or chain removed? Your timing steps are correct. You can use the method of turning the dizzy - if I'm not mistaken you would turn the body opposite to the normal direction of rotation of the rotor - normally clockwise, he said trying to remember. Some go the other way. If you have help, use the rear wheel turning method - back up about 1/8 crank turn - the points need to be closed - then go forward.
  5. Hans
    Looking at the pic of the dist. without the rotor, that looks like things are lined up - dist. body in correct position, points have just opened, notch on rotor has gone past the notch on the dist body, #1 wire looks like it would sit over the rotor. But if at that point, #1 cyl is 180 deg away from firing position (ie valves are open), then I believe you have to turn motor over one revolution to get to the TDC firing position, and then pull out dist enough to turn shaft, rotate rotor 180 deg, then push back in so it lines up again. You need to compensate for the gears meshing, but the idea is to recreate the photo. That should work.
  6. Hans
    My error. Cam lobes should point down on #1 - valves should both be closed. You should be able to wiggle the rocker arms very slightly since there is no load on either of them. That's the firing position for #1. Now, I can't see clearly which mark you are looking at on the flywheel. There is a line with OT (TDC in German) as well as a ball pressed into the flywheel at 25 deg as I recall for setting the timing with the motor running. You want the OT line to set the static timing. See if there is a mark on the front pulley - it's easier to see. In any event, you want to set dist. so that plug fires a tad before the TDC line crosses either the pointer on the front (if you have one) or the flat side of the hole in the bell housing (drivers side if memory serves).
  7. Hans
    So, Fred, you found a 2000CS with no rust??
  8. Hans
    Seems to me there are two springs with that deal - one on the pedal base and one from Throw out arm to bell housing.
  9. Hans
    Backfiring thru the carb is one symptom of timing totally out of whack. You can try hit and miss, or take a few minutes to do it right.
  10. Hans
    Before embarking on a serious refurb of mechanical parts, I'd want to be sure of the condition of the body and the likely cost to remediate problems. Body work and paint are not cheap, so unless you don't care about the ultimate cost, best to get an idea of what's required. Otherwise, you may end up with a lot of rebuilt components with no place to put them.
  11. Hans
    points should not be fully open at TDC for this test - they should just start to open as TDC mark comes by pointer
  12. Hans
    You need to make sure #1 is at TDC on firing stroke. Both cam lobes for #1 should be facing up (both valves closed). If you have a pointer and marks on front pulley for TDC, those should line up. Otherwise, shine light down hole on bell housing to look for OT stamp. Now, you need to make sure #1 fires close to TDC. Easy way is to turn engine backwards (by hand) about 1/8 turn (easier if you pull a few plugs). Rotor needs to back up, but not back to next post. Put a spare spark plug in #1 wire and ground plug. Turn on ignition, turn engine slowly by hand in normal direction (clockwise viewed from front) and watch for spark. Stop turning and consult TDC marks to see if you are in the ball park. Then make sure dizzy cap goes on with #1 wire over rotor tip. This can also be done with a 12v test light, or by rotating the dizzy while leaving the engine at TDC. Let me know if the plug method doesn't work.
  13. Hans
    I've not had much luck with the long style puller - too wobbly. The shorter item in the pictures above are easier to control, but I remember winding on a LOT of pressure and wondering whether the tie rod or the tool would pop first. I'd wear safety glasses and be VERY careful.
  14. Hans
    Bead blasting might be better, but regardless, wash the hell out of it afterwards. Clear engine paint, or Wurth flat aluminum are options.
  15. Hans
    Timing. That dizzy notch can be anywhere relative to the crank. Get #1 to fire at TDC to get it started.
  16. Hans
    I put it in a vise with tubes around the stud threads. Others bolt it to a rim and tire to hold it steady. PB blaster soak, heat, I've used the impact gun on a low setting. If you do it by hand, like any rusty bolt, the trick is to go slowly, and every few turns out, wind it back in and start again. That tends to avoid a build=up of crud on the threads that can bind and snap a bolt.
  17. Hans
    Or try harbor Freight. A pickle fork may work, but that destroys the rubber boot. You can try loosening the nut, apply PB blaster, let sit overnight, then rap both sides of the arm (the donut if you will holding the tie rod shaft) with good metal hammers.
  18. Hans
    One advantage of base/clear is that its easier to match if you need to paint a panel down the road.
  19. Hans
    Nice segue. How did you feel about '56 Buicks as a child?
  20. Hans
    Further to TobyB's input, I'd want to confirm which seal is leaking, altho if its coming down the rear of the bell housing, that sounds like the trans. That would be determined by monitoring fluid levels. However, since one of them is leaking I'd also have a rear engine seal on hand. Tempting to do it while you're in there. But that starts major scope creep - how old is your clutch?
  21. Hans
    Or put some fuel line over it.
  22. Hans
    I'd be inclined to leave the progressive opening alone for street use. Today's ethanol based fuels tend to produce gum and goop if left to evaporate. You may wish to spray carb cleaner through the jets and clean the bowl.
  23. Hans
    isn't there some provision to check/adjust the gap between unit and cam sleeve?
  24. Hans
    I'm wondering if it isn't the clutch. With more revs, any imperfections are masked. At idle, its more evident. I'd expect loose/worm driveshaft components to make a clunk but not chatter. Loose CV joint bolts would make a noise too - until they snap. The rear cross member to body bushings do wear, but I'm not sure if they would create the slip-grab-slip feeling. However, a thorough inspection under the car would be wise.
  25. Hans
    Tranny needs to come out for input seal. I don't know how long that would take on a lift. I assume you are seeing something leaking. Are you sure its the trans?
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