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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Well, half an hour if the bolts and brake line come out after 40 years of bliss. Easy to twist brake line if fitting isn't teased out. Then the other end has to come out. Plus he should do both sides. And if its been leaking, chances are the shoes are compromised. If it were me, I'd be prepared for some scope creep.
  2. Hans
    Did you check float level? Even though the pumps are different, it would appear the pressures are not all that different. Plus 2002s came with I bbl Solex too. I would think the cold starts would be harder than warm starts, if you had an ignition problem. Blue coil should be fine - I have one. But no harm in reviewing ignition system. The heat source to avoid is the head, not the manifold. Where is the fuel filter? Perhaps get it hot, let it sit, then pull top of carb to see what's going on in the bowl. Then stick feed hose to carb in jar and turn over motor to see if fuel is delivered.
  3. Hans
    thanks for tracking down the article. In Dave's case, I would want to make sure the resister wire is still in place.
  4. Hans
    How do you know its definitely not the belt?
  5. Hans
    My thoughts precisely!
  6. Hans
    I'm not sure its that simple with the coil. As I understand it, based on FAQ posts and Pertronix site, the coil has to be a certain resistance, which may or may not require an external resistor. I have Pertronix, car had a Blue coil and I determined a the time that I was OK. Other people have apparently fried their units (so to speak) allegedly because of coil mismatch, or because the wires were reversed. I would suggest that davej do a bit of research and satisfy himself that all is correct. Perhaps as you say, it will work as is. Blue coil should be good if he has that. Somebody had posted a paragraph explaining coil differences. There are several part numbers as mentioned above - the Pertronix online catalogue for 2002 is not to be trusted. I think I ended up with 1847 for mechanical dizzy. You can phone them with your dizzy number to get correct application. But yes, that looks to be in order.
  7. Hans
    One learns something new every day. I'm still looking at the pictures muttering WTF?
  8. Hans
    That photo would make a nice contribution to the topic of "badly pitted points" on Wikipedia. Much better choice with Pertronix. But before you start car, make sure your wring is correct, and that you have the appropriate coil. Plenty of info on FAQ under Pertronix install; if memory serves, Blue coil is good. Better check. Same with timing. Do a search - there was something a few weeks ago, but I forget the title. Anyone remember that lengthy one that started from scratch? Haynes tells you how to static setting with engine off to get in the ball park.
  9. Hans
    Beammmer - in last two days - water pump and sub frame torque. Search engine is very fussy. Beammmer - in last two days - water pump and sub frame torque. Search engine is very fussy.
  10. Hans
    Beammmer - within the last two days, water pump and subframe torque. Links to various sites. Beammmer - within the last two days, water pump and subframe torque. Links to various sites. The search function is not as helpful as Google.
  11. Hans
    I bought the Blue book many years ago. It covers other models so is quite handy. Anyway, I'd like to replace the stuck pages with photo copies if anyone has one on the shelf.
  12. Hans
    The FAQs are listed under the FORUMS heading, but I don't see torque values there. Its not my PDF, so I'm reluctant to move it there. But if you search "torque values" in this forum, I think you'll find hits. Just in the last days. I'd just like to complete my Blue Book. But yes, its sad when you need a 10 year old to show you how to use your phone.
  13. Hans
    Me.....look at three feet of snow in front of garage door. Sigh.
  14. Hans
    You got my curiosity aroused. According to Mr. Haynes, 1600 pump is 4.12 lb/in2; 2000 is 4.27 lb/in2. Another old French manual says 0.21 to 0.25 bar for all models. That hardly seems a significant difference between pumps. Unless the rods have some effect. As to your symptoms, I would have thought fuel boiling off in the bowl or fuel filter, or the pump losing prime. I have trouble understanding how the pressure at rest would be high enough to overpower the float, but at say 4000 rpm it wouldn't. Maybe I need more coffee. As to why the emplacement pump poops out, I'd check its innards/filters if it was used, but otherwise that makes no sense. I use an electric pump with a regulator. Maybe someone familiar with old Solex can help. I seem to recall some idiosyncrasies discussed on FAQ>
  15. Hans
    Has anyone got one of those little Factory Blue Books with all the torque settings? I need copies of a few pages that got stuck together with mechanic's hoppy helper.
  16. Hans
    Go to Harbor Freight and get a set of crow's feet open end attachments - better yet 3/8 and 1/2 sets. They attach to your torque wrench and get you into those places; like intake and exhaust manifold nuts, etc. There is a formula for adjusting the torque setting for the added length. There were some other spec sheet references in "torque values for water pump". As an aside, its not that I'm too lazy to look it up for posters, but I assume if they're asking, they may need all the values. In some cases, the values aren't on the sheets, and that's different.
  17. Hans
    My recollection was two different sizes. Which means different values. Can't recall what I found last time, but 6 and 20 sounds reasonable.
  18. Hans
    My error. I didn't actually look for water pump or else I would have posted. anyway, I see 20 ftlb, but I thought there were two different sizes of bolt on the pump. If not, then have at it.
  19. Hans
    check thread yesterday re"subframe" for link to torque sheets
  20. Hans
    Thanks John in VA. Those bolts have different torque settings.
  21. Hans
    "torque specs subframe" yesterday. I can't copy link.
  22. Hans
    I tried platinum years ago but had a similar experience. Thought it was just my car. Back to regular NGK and all is well.
  23. Hans
    check the current thread on sub frame torque for link to torque spec sheet.
  24. Hans
    To me, plugs look OK. Caramel color is good. Clean them up with emery paper, re-gap and re-install. I suspect the oil on the threads is coming from the outside. AS for points, the idea is to get the fiber block on the high spot of the cam -as shown in your pic - and set gap at 0.016 with feeler gauge. You can use a dwell meter to get a more precise measure, but feeler gauge is close enough. Put a screw driver in the notch on the points base plate and the two bumps on the dist plate to move gap back and forth. Points can be re-cycled, but you have to look for pits and lumps on the point faces. The faces need to be flat.
  25. Hans
    Have you tried searching on the Forum for jet reccs? I know there is a lot of stuff, and I recall some altitude based input. Or Google it. Fairly easy to remove everything in situ to read sizes, but tape over the inlets to keep parts from falling in. Basic question is: how does the car run now??
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