Jump to content

Hans

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,075

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    I've tried using the flaring tools, and never been happy with the results. Easier to buy appropriate length of metric tubing at auto parts store. Get a decent bender at Harbor Frt.
  2. Hans
    Why are you pulling the transmission? I believe that work can be done with it in - removing exhaust and driveshaft provide access. Unless you are doing front seal. If you take it out, I'd do them all.
  3. Hans
    That would appear to be the hose from intake manifold to brake booster. Perhaps the booster is faulty and the PO blocked the end to prevent a vacuum leak to the manifold.
  4. Hans
    If you're out buying one, for sure. I see Harbor Frt has one for $30. Or Sears.
  5. Hans
    I suggest you use the front pulley rather than the flywheel - its easier to see. I used a Tupperware lid about the same diameter as the front pulley. Figure out some way to mark several useful reference points - I did 25 and 33 deg using a degree wheel form my small block Ford days. Use the lid to transpose the marks onto the pulley, along with TDC. IE's advice is to forget the ball, and rather set timing so that maximum advance of 33 +/- is in by about 3200rpm. I'm using a bit more with twin Weber 40's without pinging. According to Haynes, stock Ti was 35-39 at 2700, but I suspect that was on late 60s fuel.
  6. Hans
    what do you mean by "loose'?
  7. Hans
    I'd get that bracket on there pronto, before the fan chews up your rad on hard braking. There are some other motor mount threads currently with pics and photo from shop manual on clearance. I'm a bit fuzzy on how high you'll have to lift the motor to get enough clearance to slide it in. At some point you might want to pull the pan and check chain tension.
  8. Hans
    I stand corrected on center bearing ear lengths. Went out to the garage to examine my collection and yes, the bearing is not in the center of the bracket, but none of mine are quite as obvious as the one in the picture, and I'd never motived the driveshaft offset that much relative to the mounting ears. So disregard my thoughts on relocating.
  9. Hans
    That is that you think it is. And I gather that because you are holding it in your hand means you don't have one on the car.
  10. Hans
    On the speedo front, you may need to wiggle the cable tip around a bit to get it fully seated. Gently tighten bolt - cable should not pull out if its seated and bolt fits into groove. Still puzzled about your center bearing ears - why did one side get cut? Unless it was to allow enough slack to get a too-long drive shaft to fit. I'd try moving the diff back and see if that gets any more slack. You may want to fabricate another bracket for the bearing that gets it into the middle.
  11. Hans
    I'd be doing the shift rod seal too.
  12. Hans
    Hard to see in there, but I believe engine and trans (4 or 5 speed) should sit on the centerline (side to side). That could be affected by the location of the rear trans mount (assuming engine mounts are correctly installed). Did you make a new trans mount bracket? Did you attach new ears to the tunnel to hold bracket? Is the rear trans mount bent to one side? It sure looks like someone has pruned one side of the center bearing bracket, which moves drive shaft to Pass side. Why?
  13. Hans
    What exactly broke? Do you have the metal bracket that limits forward travel? (see pics on thread re tii motor position).
  14. Hans
    Perhaps because the battery has been relocated, a PO has used the alternator terminal instead of the positive battery post as the common meeting spot. There appear to be a number of large cables converging on that terminal. Maybe that's normal for later alternators (E21?), but my thinking is that if he fiddled with those and the car started, there may a flakey connection there, regardless of how the wires got there. Cleaning ground strap from block to chassis should be part of the connection cleaning process, but I think he'd have seen evidence of something else serving as a ground.
  15. Hans
    That looks like a later model alternator, and I'm puzzled by that black plug. Could be different wiring run for hot cables. That said, disconnect lead from battery, and clean up those hot wire (the big ones) fittings on the back of the alternator.
  16. Hans
    Those cleaning gizmos do a nice job on copper plumbing pipe. You should also look at condition of large cables - depending on when the battery relocation was done. 40 year old copper cables can get corroded inside, and are cheap to replace with universal cables from auto parts store.
  17. Hans
    Cleaning the terminals or the whole battery? For terminals, wire brush or emery paper is fine, but little gizmo from auto parts store with - how to put it - female brush on one end to do terminal post, and male end to do inside cable fitting, works best.
  18. Hans
    First to check is all the major battery cable connections. Remove battery wires, then remove and clean ground cable in trunk, and hot cable where it attaches to starter. Clean battery posts and clamps. A poor connection can suddenly fail. You need bare metal touching.
  19. Hans
    Even using a smaller hose on outlet means buying an adapter to get back up to 8mm. I'd bite the bullet and buy the sleeve.
  20. Hans
    The wire to the tach can go from either the coil (paired with wire from dizzy) or from the dizzy connection (paired with wire to coil). I'm still curious about the cap fitting. The normal way to check for spark is to attach plug to fitting on coil or plug wire, using rubber handled pliers hold wire so plug tip touches a ground and turn over engine.
  21. Hans
    Over the years the threaded fittings/tips on the metal pipes tend to rust to the pipe. The objective is to avoid twisting the metal brake line. One approach is to cut the rubber hose and then try turning it off the pipe fitting. If memory serves, you can then get a socket over the stub of the rubber line. Basically you want to lock the metal pipe fitting/tip while turning the rubber hose. Use of wire brush, PB Blaster should come first. Be careful applying heat.
  22. Hans
    Correct me if I'm wrong, Mike (its still early in the morning) but shouldn't you also mention that regardless of where the rotor and dizzy notch end up, the #1 plug wire has to be above the rotor?
  23. Hans
    Exactly
  24. Hans
    Just to clarify, the ball on the flywheel is not TDC. TDC is marked - if memory serves - by an "OT" and a line. Or by a notch on the front pulley on some versions. AS explained above, the body of the distributor can be anywhere - what matters is that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire terminal when #1 piston is at TDC ready for firing (see above re cam lobes.
  25. Hans
    I'd be looking at that flexible hose. As mentioned, they swell shut on the inside. Plenty of previous posts with similar experience. If you're doing one, might as well do them all.
×
×
  • Create New...