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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    could that be a brake circuit failure warning light sender??
  2. Hans
    Hence my question about whether you had touched the distributor. If you didn't, and the car ran before you started working, then I'd be looking at fuel issues. If you did, then follow the instructions to check/set timing. On the fuel front, you may need to drain the whole tank and start over if the fuel is contaminated.
  3. Hans
    Did you do anything to distributor? Otherwise, could be fuel feed problem - check all hoses and clamps. Maybe weak fuel pump: pull hose at carb, place in glass jar, turn over engine. You should see gas coming out.
  4. Hans
    If you can find a second person to help, try using a 2x4 to pry down on the control arm to get the top of the strut to clear the fender lip. (caliper and sway bar removed).
  5. Hans
    certainly not water
  6. Hans
    Worth repeating: the spacers and shims are application specific from the factory. Make sure you keep the pieces from each side matched. Otherwise you have to go through the measuring process described in the manual.
  7. Hans
    What I meant about the Alpina was that the carb jetting was intended for a highly modified motor, which may not be appropriate for what you have. Per Stacey, go for setting maximum advance, not at idle or static. Zero advance at rest (Static) is useful to get in the ball park. You'll need to get a timing mark where you can see it (see current thread on "pointer", or locate a fancy timing light. Somewhere between 33-36 deg btdc is the range. Easier to mark on front pulley using a protractor (hope you paid attention in Geometry) or a degree wheel. How did you determine that you had 15 deg at idle? If that's accurate, I'd venture either you idle is too high, or you're advanced too much. Having said all this, did we determine if you are using a pure mechanical advance distributor? We're venturing into an area that has been well thrashed in previous posts. Might be time to do some research.
  8. Hans
    More to the point, oil pressure is fine, CR is low, so maybe piston slap on start-up. I'd have thought chain tensioner loss of prime would create rattle as chain hits side of upper cover, not a knock.
  9. Hans
    So where did we end up on newness of MC? If it is new, then I'd do a really thorough bleeding, including if possible the bench bleed. I've used pressure bleeder, but sometimes I think you need to a few good old pedal pumps to get bubbles loose.
  10. Hans
    First thing, where did you end up on timing advance? I spent a lot of time hunched over my carbs when my problem was not enough advance. Depending on head work, cam , CR and distributor choice, your setup looks a bit rich (choke and main). I assume you don't have an Alpina engine attached to the carbs. Also critical to get mixture screws nicely adjusted at idle. I'm running 30mm and 125. Prob could go 32MM. 55F8 sounds familiar - f9 is an alternative.
  11. Hans
    Forget Unisyn and get a squirrel cage style. Like so: http://www.jbugs.com/product/7034-11.html but it can be bought for around $30 -40. MUCH more accurate and easy to use.
  12. Hans
    Lots of different views on that, and sort of like buying shoes. I'd search the Forum for "DCOE jets" or set-up or tuning. I wouldn't start drilling holes quite yet. What have you got in there now? Properly adjusted, it should idle lower than that. Key is midrange transition, about 2500 rpm.
  13. Hans
    You might be OK with loose clearances, but rod bearings will get worse and destroy the motor if one lets go. Mains might last a bit longer - I'm not familiar with how they eventually expire - other than perhaps destroying the crank. You'd need to pull the pan and Plasti-gauge all the bearings to find the culprit - unless it was obvious from bearing condition. I think Federal Mogul has a webpage of bearing pictures. I ran a Bavaria for some years that had piston slap on start-up. Pistons expand with heat to reduce clearances. Not so with bearings.
  14. Hans
    If the noise goes away fairly quickly, it may be piston slap. Not terminal, but might be related to compression being a bit low. Keep in mind that loose bearing clearances will not affect how an engine performs. At least until something lets go.
  15. Hans
    Its a pretty complicated job. I strongly suggest you find a Haynes or similar manual, and follow the instructions closely. You best have head checked for straightness (assuming it is salvageable) and if you get it milled, be sure to attach the front cover plate. You will also need some special tools.
  16. Hans
    Sounds like the screw went into a cylinder, hence the knock. Sadly it's time to pull the head - maybe just a valve and seat, but maybe piston and head too.
  17. Hans
    For the record (in case it wasn't included above) the oil pressure warning light is for low pressure, not low oil level. An engine can happily put out 60psi pressure until it runs out of oil to suck from the pan. What may happen when the level gets really low is that the light may come on as the oil sloshes around and leaves the pick-up uncovered for a few seconds. If your oil light flickers at idle (car stationary), it may be trying to tell you that the pressure is below -7psi? I think. Which could be that your idle is too low, your oil choice is too thin, your bearing clearances are too big, your oil pump is tired OR yes, perhaps your sender/wiring is flakey. If memory serves, the light goes on if the wire to the sender is grounded (ignition on). In which case, having the light always on could be an electrical issue. But it could also be that you have no oil pressure. I'd be checking actual oil pressure with a gauge (try Harbor Freight), and then main and rod bearings in situ with Plasti-gauge before getting carried away.
  18. Hans
    Exactly like that - except I went under the intakes. BUT, watch out for battery terminals!! And yes, 6'. I'm Canadian - we don't do feet. They come in 5' lengths too - you might want to measure. Mine went on 2000CS. Look for a locking cable if they have them. Seems to me there were some on Amazon.
  19. Hans
    Ah yes, the smog pump. Forgot about those. 35 deg max advance is good target.
  20. Hans
    You realize of course you are missing two venturies. I suggest acquiring a "squirrel cage" synchronizer to start.
  21. Hans
    See if you can find some thin wall closed end wrenches from Bavaria/E12/E28 tool kit. They fit nicely, but you don't get a lot of throw.
  22. Hans
    I recently discovered that some DCOEs have rear pull start valves - something new every day! Mine pull forward, and after many years of pedal pumping, coughing, spitting, etc. I decided "enough". I bought a universal 6" choke cable (try asking for that from the younger counter persons at NAPA) and fished it through original mounting holes, under the airbox, over the alternator and onto carbs. What a difference. Pull out choke knob, turn key, engine starts. Gradually push it back in, and off you go.
  23. Hans
    Stock ti motor called for 0 deg static timing. Based on advice from Ireland, I'm using maximum advance as target, not idle or static. 33-36 deg max depending on set-up. 15 deg at idle sounds a bit aggressive, depending on what idle means.
  24. Hans
    Nice pointer. What marks have you cut? I too prefer the front pulley - much easier to see and you can add more marks as needed. I'm not sure when factory dropped the built-in front marker; my 67 has one. Also in jgerrock's photo - what is that big bracket under the oil filter? I thought AC was on the pass side.
  25. Hans
    I wouldn't be smacking it with a metal hammer. Rubber or dead-blow perhaps.
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