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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Once you do get them off, I'd replace them with a hex head bolt - much easier to get an Allen key in there.
  2. Hans
    I went with facet mounted beside gas tank too. Tank-filter-pump-regulator. Everything fits under panel. You do need 12v back there however. I can hear it when engine is off.
  3. Hans
    Using the notch on the distributor and rotor is fine as long as they were both installed correctly in the first place. What you might do is use a 12V test light to set static timing - instructions are in Haynes I believe. That should get it running.
  4. Hans
    I broke down and bought BMW pins for the spindles. For the others, I've been using nylok nuts on tie rod ends.
  5. Hans
    Then your initial set-up is fine. Make sure the rubber O-rings are under the cups on the mixture screws
  6. Hans
    The headlights are UK/US spec.
  7. Hans
    are these new Webers with the air correction locking bolt (in addition to air needle valve)?
  8. Hans
    I have the oil filled idler arm link, and not the later bushed version. Does anybody know what and how much fluid goes in there?
  9. Hans
    Are you sure its not sitting on top of the column? It's hard to see the tab when its in place.
  10. Hans
    It may be a metal piece sandwiched between the wheel and the top of the column. Round, with tab on one side
  11. Hans
    I think he's right.
  12. Hans
    Is there any reason why I can't remove the control arm without the ball joint? My ball joints are attached by nuts and bolts.
  13. Hans
    Thanks. Managed to source parts to change one side. Vintage or Bust!
  14. Hans
    AS suggested above, if you have a timing pin on the front of the engine, you may find it easier to see the mark there. You'd need to paint on a new mark on the pulley. Bouncing ball means erratic engine. Could be ignition related - how old are the plug wires? I had a bad set that took me a while to track down. There is a school of thought that supports setting max advance, which if memory serves, means getting full advance (33 deg or so) by 3000 rpm.
  15. Hans
    Havent lost them - just planning the rear whell bearing replacement. However, I found a thread on E21 board that says that appropriate spacers were installed at factory, and don't need to be changed if just bearings are swapped. Makes sense I suppose. Anyone done this job?
  16. Hans
    Has anyone found an alternative source for the NLA bearing sleeve spacers? Or has a few lying around? 2800CS looks like it might work.
  17. Hans
    By dual circuit I mean with two tandem pistons in cylinder for safety.
  18. Hans
    I believe the E21 version is dual circuit, but for single piston front calipers (which I have). My current set-up also has some sort of equalizer. Switching to tii cylinder means some major conversion work which I'm reluctant to undertake right now..
  19. Hans
    Has anyone used E21 master brake cylinder to replace NK single circuit original ?
  20. Hans
    Well fine.
  21. Hans
    Try gevans[at]evansauto.com
  22. Hans
    Walmart or Costco are reasonably priced and good warranty. Costco is supposed to be good quality, but some models lack feet on the sides/ends. Optima available at both places last I looked, but an expensive way to go. I'd focus on getting one that fits in the tray, with clearance for the hold down rods and terminals on the right side. Bigger the better. Use a battery tender over the winter.
  23. Hans
    And number 1 wire position on the cap has to be roughly over the copper tip on the rotor at TDC. If you are in any doubt as to where the #1 wire was on the cap before, get engine to TDC and check. You may wish to invest in a shop manual.
  24. Hans
    The cap only goes on one way. If you are starting from scratch, get the motor to TDC, and the rotor will be pointing more or less at where the number one plug wire goes (or should go) on the cap. From there, follow the firing order (usually clockwise). Pertronix doesn't enter into this process.
  25. Hans
    (nt)
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