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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Try some of our FAQ supporters, or check with Bav Auto or BMAparts. I think you'll find cheaper and quicker in US
  2. Hans
    and try coming in on an angle to start rather than straight down.
  3. Hans
    That's where I would start - check vertical play on shift lever - you may need more shims to hold down the plastic cup.
  4. Hans
    OEM. I have no idea how they were installed - any I've seen relied on rust to keep tight.
  5. Hans
    Arent there two different down pipes?
  6. Hans
    Not such a dumb question. You might want to vent it to below battery bracket, but that means finding a fitting for the hole and a piece of tube. Try Walmart for a closed one at a reasonable price.
  7. Hans
    In SD, I doubt you'll ever need the warm air feed. I'd close it off completely and see if you can find a used sender unit if you really feel the need. I may have one lying around from my E3 days, but Carl Nelson might have something.
  8. Hans
    I'd take flowers to the bank teller. Old saying: If it seems too good to be true, it probably is.
  9. Hans
    A thicker head gasket is available from BMW - check real OEM . !.8mm as I recall.
  10. Hans
    A puzzle. What changed?
  11. Hans
    I would use coat hanger around shaft to keep it from dropping beyond limit of opposite CV joint. Then apply hammer as directed.
  12. Hans
    is the return spring snagging on something?
  13. Hans
    If memory serves, there should be a slight gap between fast idle screw and the fast idle cam when the choke is off (fully open). For cold start, pressing pedal down at least half way allows choke flaps to snap closed, which turns fast idle cam to higher step.
  14. Hans
    you should have a Texas gusher.
  15. Hans
    have you checked to make sure choke is working? With cold car, pressing gas pedal to floor should cause choke plates to snap shut and fast idle cam to engage. Adlust by turning choke housing.
  16. Hans
    could be the rubber hose. They swell shut when old.
  17. Hans
    (nt)
  18. Hans
    As I recall, it becomes clear when you hold the arm up to the cross member brackets.
  19. Hans
    Something odd there - yes, should require some hammering. I use a piece of 2x6 across the seal and tap evenly around the edge to ease it in.
  20. Hans
    Could be float level setting - or maybe pump pressure too high. Or floats don't float.
  21. Hans
    Here's another stupid question - what's the small hole aft of the shifter hole?
  22. Hans
    It's hard to imagine how it could get bent short of a major collision, but if you suspect it was bent, I wouldn't be trying to salvage it.
  23. Hans
    A quick test of rough timing setting can be done by turning engine around to TDC for #1 then pull dist cap. Rotor should be under the #1 wire terminal. You can set what's called "static" timing using a 12V test light or voltmeter. That procedure is described in the manual. You set #1 to fire at TDC to get car running. But if timing is way out, you'll often get spitting and backfiring. I'm no tii expert, but arent you supposed to sync the pump too?
  24. Hans
    I would phone Pertronix with your dist. number to ensure correct kit is ordered.
  25. Hans
    If you want to use a torque wrench, you will need thin wall socket - or better still 1/4" drive with wobble extension to set in there, PLUS crow's foot adapter for some of bottom ones as I recall. Easier to install off the car.
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