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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    compare that with dimensions on Realoem.
  2. Hans
    I wouldn't rely on that measurement. BMW used several suppliers for the same cyls. The only way to confirm (unless someone can verify your casting numbers) is to measure the bore diameter. If memory serves, you can see the end of the bore if you peel back the rubber bellows on pedal end. Use vernier calipers.
  3. Hans
    Best to phone Pertronix with your dist. number to avoid re-ordering. On-line catalogue is not accurate/complete.
  4. Hans
    measured where?
  5. Hans
    Make that four different Pertronix applications: 2842. I've seen other installations with the wires running around the case.
  6. Hans
    As I understand it, the early C/R boxes need a specific fluid because of the synchros. Perhaps this is your problem.
  7. Hans
    Should there be vacuum in a 1970 tank? Were they vented to air, or part of evac system?
  8. Hans
    I'd be checking the power supply to the battery. First, as mentioned above, an old (tired) battery won't hold the charge, so doesn't produce enough juice to turn starter. The clicking sound is a clue. Also clean and check the battery terminals and all connections at starter. Then pull the plugs - you should be able to push the car in 4th gear to see if engine moves. Then try starter. Some folks would but a bit of light oil in the spark plug hole to lube upper cyl if car has been sitting for some time.
  9. Hans
    two double barrel solex sidedraft same as 2002ti, 2000CS, 2000ti, etc.
  10. Hans
    just make sure the forward bolt holes line up so as not to cross thread
  11. Hans
    could be the sound system, but is that valve train clatter I hear? If so, could be part of the issue. I spent a lot of time playing with carbs to find out my problem was not enough timing advance and a bad plug wire.
  12. Hans
    That looks like fun. I've not done that, but I can tell you those vertical bolts (#8) have splines on top and are a pig to get out after 50 years. I'd pull the back seat bottom and get some serious penetrating oil in the cavity where they sit. If you hope to salvage them, put nuts on to protect end/threads if you plan to use big hammer. I don't undrestand why horzontal bolts won't come out. Seems odd. Rust perhaps? Do they go through a tube?
  13. Hans

    Door mirrors

    Hans posted a topic in Parts Wanted

    WTB both side door mirrors with mounting hardware, gasket, etc. Any style OK.
  14. Hans
    At one time, it was to possible get chains with removable link. Does the OEM one have the link? If so, you can feed new one around without pulling front cover. I did it once years ago. I'd have a look down the timing chest with a flashlight - I've heard of broken chain guides. look for grooves on drivers side where upper meets lower covers.
  15. Hans
    What carbs are you using?
  16. Hans
    Are you sure the tension piston was bled properly?
  17. Hans
    where is this green wire connected?
  18. Hans
    Good point - I'm not fussy.
  19. Hans
    Previous posts on this question. Black wire from tach can go to coil first, then on to dist., or vice versa, depending on year/model.
  20. Hans
    One of the problems with this sort of job is "scope creep". It seems to me that IF you can get the hubs off easily, you shouldn't have to replace the bearings. Some would say that on a high mileage car, you might as well do it while you're in there. But that means dropping the half shafts, and getting the stub axles out of the old bearings. Plus the pile of tools starts to grow. Having done this job recently, one hub had to be torched off (we were trying to salvage the swing arm) which totalled the hub splines. Fortunately a spare was at hand. But then on another car, they almost fell off (previously removed I expect). So be prepared for this job to last days, not hours. I'd be inclined to leave the bearings alone and see if the hubs will come off. Prayers, penetrating oil and beer will help. You'll need some solid wheel chocks or rest car against solid wall.
  21. Hans
    Looking for L & R door mirrors with hardware. Near Sarasota would be nice.
  22. Hans
    Based on advice from Jeff Ireland, I set my timing using the maximum advance method rather than the ball. He recommends 33 deg at about 3200 rpm as a guideline for street engine. This on a 9.3 CR motor, replacement mech. advance dist. and twin 40 webbers. Drive-ability was dramatically improved. No pinging, smooth transition. I also transposed timing marks (25 and 35 deg) to the front pulley which is easier to see (if you have a front timing peg).
  23. Hans
    or perhaps filter screen on bottom of fuel pick-up in tank
  24. Hans
    you may need a different bearing if you go to bigger clutch. Better investigate before starting removal.
  25. Hans
    I got the seals from Bavauto but prob available elsewhere. I have an older packaged rebuild kit with gaskets. Check realoem to see if it still exists, but I'd do the three seals and not open the case. I also have an entire 1600 trans if it comes to that.
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