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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Gaskets and seals are available individually or as a kit. On a 50 year old trans, I'd be changing front and back seals, and especially the trans shifter rod seal. The back seal might be optional, since you can change it without dropping the trans, but might as well do all. Also an opportunity to change rear main seal if necessary.
  2. Hans
    Something to keep in mind: if you get one of the above, you have to push it into the plug hole while turning over the motor. That means an accomplice or remote starter switch. If you get one that screws in, you can use the key to turn over motor, but I've had them stick in there - that means trying to twist it out with a rubber hose. And getting them started is good fun. I ended up using on of those original tool kit plug tube tools with the hose placed inside to get things lines up.
  3. Hans
    You're both right, according to Haynes. Some models/years have black wiire going to coil first, others to dist. first, with short run the other. So in this case, maybe wire back to tach is disconnected or flakey
  4. Hans
    All the more reason to watch the brake fluid level closely.
  5. Hans
    On second thought, i don't think the lower row of studs goes into the rocker arm area. So penetrating oil on the outside and offer prayers to appropriate deities.
  6. Hans
    I would pulll the headers, and then the valve cover to get some penetrating oil on the inside end of the stud. Then a good pair of vice grips, with round mouth (vs flat straight jaws). You only get one chance. get a good grip and gently turn
  7. Hans
    What do you mean by sinc-link? Did you remove the choke housing cover (round "cup" on side of carb)? If so, perhaps you didnt properly engage the choke plate linkage with the spring inside the cup. See if the choke plates have some resistance when you GENTLY move them. ALtho I guess they would just flap shut if they were loose. Also check linkage up to plates. Or, you need to turn the housing so the plates just close when engine is cold. You should be able to open and close the choke plates by turning the housing back and forth. Try googling Weber 32/36 rebuild - somewhere on Utoob there is a two part video of a rebuild. I'm more familiar with DCOEs.
  8. Hans
    As I recall, one of the vendor sites has instructions on how to adjust choke. With cold engine, depressing the gas pedal 1" or so should release choke linkage so spring shuts choke plates. AS engine warms up, spring unwinds (with water or electric heat help) and plates open to full vertical. So under the hood, move throttle linkage ans see if plates snap closed. Unless someone has been messing with choke housing, hard to imagine how this would get way out of adjustment. However, to adjust, loosen three bolts on housing and turn it so plates are just closed. Make sure linkage is not binding.
  9. Hans
    If the seal at the back of the master cyl is weak, fluid gets by it into the booster servo unit, and then gets sucked down the hose from booster to intake manifold. Over time, your brake fluid resevoir level will drop. The tape makes it easier to monitor. Your compression test sounds OK assuming nothing has changed.
  10. Hans
    I'd start carefully monitoring fluid consumption. Mark master cyl with tape, note oil and water levels. If oil was getting into ex. manifold, you'd hear the exhaust leak under the hood.
  11. Hans
    Three possible sources:oil, coolant, brake fluid. First clue is obviousy dissapearing fluid. I belueive coolant is more viisble at idle. Brake fluid can be sucked in under high vacuum - e.g. lifting off. Sounds more like oil and I'd go with rings. If other two fluids are stable, try a compression test.
  12. Hans
    Sounds good. I was trying to remeber how the top bits attached to actual shaft. Depending on what you need, I do have assorted bits here in Ottawa - you know the drill. But act quickly.
  13. Hans
    If your front timing cover has the peg for timing off the front pulley (or you can retro fit something) its much easier to see the pulley than the flywheel ball. I transposed additional marks (TDC is already there) with white paint using a degree wheel.
  14. Hans
    Similar to my recollection: 18 ft lbs while turning wheel, back off a flat. Notched washer behind nut should just move. But it's been a while.
  15. Hans
    which manual is that? As I recall, there is a process involving torque settings. Don't have my manual handy. But there should be no play.
  16. Hans
    If dist is properly seated, the bottom of the dist "cup" should sit tight against collar on housing attached to head. It needs to be pushed down, and near the end of travel, rotor will turn (as gears engage). Can you move rotor sideways?
  17. Hans
    Ah, seems to me if the window WERE in a different location, it would make a difference to timing - in the same way moving the peg at the front would change things. I don't have answer as to whether holes are different from 4 speed to 5 speed O/D (but I doubt it). On C/R box, they are the same.
  18. Hans
    I'd start on the electrical side first. CHeck/clean plugs, timing, point gap/dwell, dist. cap, rotor, make sure wire connections are solid. Then you can go to carb. Vacuum leaks is top priority. The basic question (for which you may not have the answer) is: did it run well before? If so, check fuel bowl for grunge. Maybe old gas issue. Maybe pull jets to clean and verify with proper settings. Check accel pump by looking down carb throat and moving linkage - you should see good squirt of fuel.
  19. Hans
    there's not much potential for parasitic drain on a 2002. Perhaps a radio on un-switched circuit? As suggested, I'd look at charging system first. With engine running, you should see 14v at battery. Loose belt would likely create cooing issues. Some have reported drain thru alternator fault. For instructions for testing for drain, search on Bimmerforums E46 page - I saw it there recently.
  20. Hans
    I don';t know what the market is like in Sweden , but in NA it might be cheaper just to put in a whole used transmission.
  21. Hans
    I'd be looking at the regulator - I had one of those newer printed circuit ones bad out of the box.
  22. Hans
    Its unlikely the shell will turn into a pretzel the second you remove front cross-member. It has two guide pins - I'd unbolt it and then see if it will go back on cleanly. Rear unlikely to be problem - pretty strong back there - assuming accident didn't affect area. Blue Shop Manual has measurements for shell.
  23. Hans
    By too tight, do you men you get it all the way on and it won't urn, or, you can't get it started? If latter, sometimes the shoes need to be moved up or down a titch. Make sure shoes are seated properly, and pistons are fully recessed in cylinder (squeeze both shoes together)
  24. Hans
    On one hand, if the body flexes after removing subframes, you've got more serious issues on your hands in terms of structural integrity. In theory, removing the subframes should make no difference to a sound body shell. On the other hand, if you're going to put in braces, why not do it while the maximum rigidity is in the structure? Things only get dicey when you start removing rocker panels, pieces of floor, etc.
  25. Hans
    I think a missing ground strap would have created smoke under the hood by now. If it turns with plugs out, but still does that, check timing too.
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