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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    If you're planning to use braces (a good idea), I'd do it before removing sub-frames and nose.
  2. Hans
    I recall we started this discussion a few days ago! I agree, don't drive the car until you can pull the brake drum and see what's going on. Could be a broken spring, or seized joint on e-brake mechanism. How many miles on car?
  3. Hans
    If you have air impact wrench (strong one) it may pop it.
  4. Hans
    How neglected is the ignition system? Might be vacuum advance, but I'd review plugs, points, cap and wires first.
  5. Hans
    Hmmm. I'll have to work on posting pics. Anyway, mine is similar but worn.
  6. Hans
    from 2002[/img]
  7. Hans
    So bottom line is, that fuse should not be hot all the time. Hard to know what feeds it. So if it is hot all the time, either move gauge wire to a switched fuse, or re-route to a switched hot lead.
  8. Hans
    I don't think they have as much road salt as NA, so maybe a tsk tsk.
  9. Hans
    In distrib2, is that oil on the "blade" and underside of dist? If so, the dist O=ring may be tired. You appear to have good oil leak around the back manifiold studs. The upper stud actually goes thru to inside of rocker chamber and oil can migrate down threads. I suspect oil is migrating from there to lower pipe. Also, run a paper towel along the head just below the rocker cover seam (at least above #3 and 4 plugs to see if that gasket is the culprit.
  10. Hans
    I doubt you'd get smoke out of the joint without hearing a noticeable exhaust leak if the gasket was bad. I'd be looking for oil getting onto the pipes. Where is this "shiny " area in the photo? Popular oil leak spots are valve cover gasket, oil pressure sender and relating housing, exhaust manifold studs that go into head. More problematic would be head gasket at the back. You could try changing manifold to downpipe gasket, but first have a good look with flashlight and paper towel.
  11. Hans
    Do you use the hand brake?
  12. Hans
    But then folks who drive 2002s in the far northern winters should be horse- whipped.
  13. Hans
    This link turned up on the 2002 side: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:BMW_in_1968
  14. Hans
    As suggested, put an in-line plastic filter under the hood. Could also be tired fuel pump taking a long time to prime. But that assumes proper tune-up and adequate battery power.
  15. Hans
    Excellent link to old pics! Looks like my CS coming down the line.
  16. Hans
    If you have room to store a parts car, they can be handy for odds and sods. But I'd look closely at (a) how much you actually need off the car and ( whether you want to spend the time pulling parts to sell them on. $600 sounds a bit high if this is a terminal rust car, unless there are some obviously new parts of value. As pointed out, do you want to go to the trouble of pulling an old starter to put on another old starter?
  17. Hans
    try getting a vernier caliper into the groves at 6 and 12 o'clock and compare with diameter of column splines, or splines in original wheel.
  18. Hans
    should have part # on end
  19. Hans
    If anything, my Nardi hub is a bit loose.
  20. Hans
    Good to know. I'll check mine. Now that we've talking about dipsticks, are they all the same?
  21. Hans
    Don't know about Mr. G, but I've used Facet pumps with success. Reasonably priced.
  22. Hans
    Is that a rubber o-ring? That thing does not look familiar.
  23. Hans
    Or put a brick on the gas pedal to hold it open, and carry on with above steps under the hood. Idea is get throttle wide open when pedal is on floor.
  24. Hans
    So they clamp onto the shaft. Interesting.
  25. Hans
    Its too cold to go out and look, but seems to me the 4 bolt flange cannot be put on later blocks with stub tube and rubber hose set-up. Or I would have done it.
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