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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    do your reversing lights work?
  2. Hans
    1501 sounds like the right number for 02. Could the splines be damaged on either piece?
  3. Hans
    Dwell meter is more accurate, but just make sure they are not pitted, and set at 0.016 There is a line on the cam flange that shows you TDC with cover off, if you don't have a mark on your front pulley.
  4. Hans
    So, PatrickMTL, add three yards of oil to your car. And rinse out the glass after.
  5. Hans
    Missed that. HD is cheaper than I expected - makes sense to lash out (no pun) for IE ones I'd say.
  6. Hans
    We have bilingual litres, eh. I use Brad Penn which means converting quarts to litres as I pour.
  7. Hans
    That explains the other two breaking. I've never heard of one breaking, much less three. Hard to imagine someone making after-market rocker arms for 50 year old BMWs. I wouldn't think there was a big market. It may be more cost affective to look for some low mileage used ones.
  8. Hans
    It doesn't have a private fuse - at least when it left Munich. That fuse feeds a number of things in instrument cluster. Do you have a wiring diagram??
  9. Hans
    4.25 litres for Canadians. Get some clamps on that rubber dipstick tube. I agree with suggestion to butt it against block tube, then confirm mark by doing oil change.
  10. Hans
    Excellent. You may need to modify linkage a bit, but pretty straightforward. Pertronix is a good investment too.
  11. Hans
    As you said: oh boy. I'd be starting there. Try the fuse removing process to confirm which one controls the fuel gauge. If that is the correct fuse (11 or 12 I believe) then check switch to see if wire form switch is on switched or always hot terminal.
  12. Hans
    You shouldn't have smoke out the carb. I'm thinking timing and/or firing order.
  13. Hans
    That won't hurt but I don't think that's where your problem lies. I'd still check timing - do yo know how to do static timing? Or get #1 to tdc and make sure rotor is at # 1 terminal in cap. Did we talk about gas? How old is the gas you are using?
  14. Hans
    You can get an adapter for top of the carb, but in some cases you need to carve up the stock air cleaner housing to get it low enough. Or use an after-market "pancake" filter. Again, a good reason to source from somebody who knows 2002s.
  15. Hans
    Possibly un-fused, but definitely hot always (i.e., not on with ignition). You mentioned working on the ignition switch: I'd check your connections there. There is one "always hot" terminal that you may have used by accident. How many fuses do you have? On 12 fuse box, wire from switch to fuse that appears to feed gauge comes off switch.
  16. Hans
    A few quick checks for fuel and ignition. Make sure you have fuel at the carb. And old fuel pump takes a while to suck gas all the way from the tank. If you don't have a transparent fuel filter up front to monitor, either: remove air cleaner, open choke flap if necessary, use flash-light to look down carb throats, open throttle quickly and you should see gas squirting into throats. Or, pull fuel line from carb, stick in a bottle, disconnect big coil wire at distributor and ground it, and turn over engine. You should have gas squirting out. On ignition front, make sure points gap is correct, cap terminals and rotor are clean, wires are in correct order and perhaps check static timing (at TDC) to make sure its in the ball park. I've used Quick-Start in the past. A little goes a long way. Sometimes enough to get it firing. But eventually you need fuel flow and healthy spark.
  17. Hans
    when you say "won't turn over", do you mean starter works but engine won't fire and start?
  18. Hans
    yes that makes sense. One of those terminals is hot always. Or switch is getting flakey. Or wires got mixed at fuse box: some fuses are hot, some switched power.
  19. Hans
    You can use fuse pulling method to home in on circuit, but seems to me fuel gauge should be off when key is turned off and removed. On 02, there should be virtually no draw - maybe with modern radio. Not like new cars. So maybe ignition switch or some misconnected wires at fuse box??
  20. Hans
    It does seem odd - I'd be looking for another cause other than metal fatigue. And yes, check torque specs for cover gasket
  21. Hans
    re Gothic Line fort - thanks. I'll add that to the list. I visited Anzio and Liri Valley last year. There is an amazing WW2 museum about 50 km SE of Anzio. On the castle front, the one in the pic cascading down the hill is, I believe, east of Aosta on the autostrada.
  22. Hans
    Sorry for duplicate posts. I've used Waxoyl too. I used it on all the inside panels, including the nose, on my CS, and it's still there 25 years later. It sets up nicely on vertical surfaces, but doesn't creep as well as the thinner spray. Consider it for the rest of the inside door panel after the seam spray.
  23. Hans
    I used a spray can of thin rust prevention fluid (not sure about Wurth but in Canada we have Krown, which works well) with a plastic tube attached. The idea is to start spraying in the upper corners into the seam, pushing the tube into the crease. Work your way down, and then along the bottom. Put an aluminium baking sheet under the open door - this will drip for a while. You can then reapply every few years. Some folks may prefer to fill bottom inside seam with seam filler (sort of thin putty that sets up) or heavy undercoating, but I prefer being able to get into the actual seam. Spray across the top inside of the door too. Ideally, all this is done with the door off the car and standing on end. I did one edge at a time and then rolled door 90 deg. Before doing the above, I would consider applying some seam filler (I think Eastwood has something) along the seam on the outside bottom of the door that faces in to rocker.
  24. Hans
    I used a spray can of thin rust prevention fluid (not sure about Wurth but in Canada we have Krown, which works well) with a plastic tube attached. The idea is to start spraying in the upper corners into the seam, pushing the tube into the crease. Work your way down, and then along the bottom. Put an aluminium baking sheet under the open door - this will drip for a while. You can then reapply every few years. Some folks may prefer to fill bottom inside seam with seam filler (sort of thin putty that sets up) or heavy undercoating, but I prefer being able to get into the actual seam. Spray across the top inside of the door too. Ideally, all this is done with the door off the car and standing on end. I did one edge at a time and then rolled door 90 deg. Before doing the above, I would consider applying some seam filler (I think Eastwood has something) along the seam on the outside bottom of the door that faces in to rocker.
  25. Hans
    I used to go every year when BMW club organized a school. Hope to drop by this year early July. For carb, when the choke knob is pulled, the choke plates should close, and at the same time, on the side of the carb, you should see a cam lever turning that pushes open the throttle. Maybe the cable is not going to full choke/increased idle, or, as suggested, maybe it needs to be bent a little.
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