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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. I would be buying my carb from a BMW -savvy supplier so you get the right jets, etc.
  2. You 're going to Ring? Lucky you! Doesn't the Blau Ecke have a fireplace? Anyway, I'm not so sure there is an adjustment screw on the manual choke version. But you should be able to move choke lever at carb and see it move throttle linkage
  3. There was a lengthy discussion on this within the last week, with everything you ever wanted/needed to know about coils. Short answer: yes, blue coil is fine.
  4. look like you can jump 58b and 58c on the switch to bypass rheo. See if that's bright enough.
  5. On the harness front, I would slice open the loom and see what has cooked. You may get away with replacing a few wires. You should get the wiring diagram to see where those wires go.
  6. I'd be checking the cable mounting points - make sure the flex cable ends are clean and down to bare metal - use wire brush or emery paper. If block is painted, make sure threads are clean, likewise the bolt. There needs to be a good connection for that amperage.
  7. Jimk - I've never seen that one. Are you sure it wasn't a kluge to attach ground strap without clearing access to normal spots on driver's side?
  8. And the alternator should have a ground wire to head
  9. First guess is you didn't deal with ground strap to block. Poor connection or not there at all.
  10. It would have been attached to a blade terminal on the side of the dist. that went to condenser and points. The Pertronix replaces all of those, including the wires to the coil. I think in your case, one of those black wires goes to tach, the ether goes to coil. I also think the coil end was disconnected, so no link between coil and tach. See if there is a loose black wire under the coil.
  11. I'm assuming new cylinders last more than 1.5 years. So you're left with a linkage issue, a bleeding problem or something with the hose. I agree, if the hose is swollen in the inside, you would expect to see reduced flow of fluid at bleeder. What did you mean by "master cylinder not engaging"? On the linkage front, I believe one of the manuals has a dimension for that. Does yours have the adjustable push rod on slave?
  12. Upon reflection, and more coffee, there was a recent tread with same question. There appear to be two wiring versions which accomplish the same thing. In your case, I suspect wire comes from tach, went to dist first, and then to coil. It was disconnected for Pertronix. But PO may have disconnected black wire from coil too. That's what you need to look for, and leave wire on right where it is.
  13. which means the black wire is not attached to coil - question is, does the black wire on right go to tach, or to coil? You need a black wire from coil leading off thru firewall.
  14. shortening one side would - as pointed out- screw up geometry between L and R. Not to mention the safety aspects. It's bad enough using 50 year old parts. I'd be reworking the dry sump arrangement. Anyone know if E21 subframe fits?
  15. I agree - the rubber hose may be the place to start. When you push quickly, there may be enough sudden pressure to squeeze by the narrowing inside diameter. I assume you put on new cylinders?
  16. There was a post last week about "fuse 11" as I recall. In that case, the pump was drawing too much power. Headlights may be a separate isse.
  17. What happens when you sit with clutch pedal down, car in gear? Does it stay released or start to creep?
  18. Things have progressed beyond where I jumped in. By flooding, I meant the engine. But if battery is OK, then we're on to something else. What I find odd is the instruments dying first, then the car. Cleaning the terminals may help. Do you have wiring diagram?
  19. If you have space, consider finding a parts car too. I'd be looking for a project that someone abandoned. And, pay attention to advice about rust: it is expensive and time consuming to fix.
  20. I think this is another application of the old axiom: nine times out of ten its electrical. This does not sound like a fuel issue. A wild guess is that your battery was slowly discharging, to the point where the car wouldn't run. Perhaps it didnt take the boost because it was flooded? What reading did you get from the volt meter?
  21. Hey Mikeem - is that a choke cable under the throttle cable? If so, how does that work?
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