Jump to content

Hans

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,075

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    I think the filters make the difference. That said, 1/3" is not generous. Has anybody measured ti manifold depth vs other brands?
  2. Hans
    That's another way to go = use the individual air filters on each horn. A bit noisy I suspect, and not ideal for dusty roads. I was thinking more of getting a "proper" air cleaner in there.
  3. Hans
    Nice car - is that Sahara? I once had a similar 1600-2. Odd that the pedal doesn't come back up. One thing that can happen with rebuilt cylinders is that if bore has pitting, or rubber seal gets damaged on installation, fluid is simply pushed back over the seal instead of going out the pipes. So no fluid loss, just recirculation. Just a thought. What did you mean by "check valve"? On the manifold?
  4. Hans
    A friend of mine uses what is politely referred to as the banana adapter, which curves up 90 deg. Pancake air cleaners sit on top. Angled horns might clear, but then you'd need air cleaner box with 4 holes (i.e., ti or CS style). Prob easier to swap booster.
  5. Hans
    One drawback to the top mount may be that it looks like you have to dismantle it to get carb top/jet cover off that carb. Not sure if that screws up balance adjustment. IE pushrod arrangement gives better access. It also has a range of settings that would allow some latitude in linkage travel. Haven't tried either - I have ti style manifolds with pull rods. I also recommend the turbine style synchronizer if you don't have one.
  6. Hans

    Tach wire

    Hans replied to a topic in BMW 2002 and other '02

    Both. Doesn't make any difference which come first as far as I can see.
  7. Hans
    I think you wife should write the sequel to your book. My Life with the Hack Mechanic. So did it leak?
  8. Hans
    I'd go for the trunk for safety reasons. If that puppy gets loose in the cockpit, you will not be a happy camper. Also gets you out of the cockpit, rather than fumbling under the seat with the engine on fire.
  9. Hans
    what kind of manifold do you have?
  10. Hans

    Tach wire

    Hans replied to a topic in BMW 2002 and other '02

    according to Haynes, depends on model. Tii goes to coil via dist., 02 appears to go to dist. via coil.
  11. Hans
    On the electrical front, keep in mind that things can be fine until a certain threshold is crossed, and then they don't work. Corrosion of the grounding wires would be an example. That's where I'd be looking - temp is not going to jump immediately because lights are turned on. On the oil leak front, if the cover was not milled with the head, you will have a serious leak. Pull the top valve cover and gasket, and see if the top of the front upper cover is flush with the head. If there is a minor step you can try some silicone sealant over the seam and a fresh gasket. Make sure cover is torqued properly, starting from the middle and working out. Failing that, try Permatex "Right Stuff" gasket maker. I hear good things about it.
  12. Hans
    Did you order the spacers? Curious as to whether they fit
  13. Hans
    Usually it's in a small circle of dots - smaller than a penny. But that sure looks like a later tranny - slave cyl mounting is the clue
  14. Hans
    I'd be looking at those cluster contacts. As for your oil leak, did you have head planed? And if so, with the front cover attached?
  15. Hans
    do you have a return spring on the carb linkage?
  16. Hans
    Has this been a problem for 3000 miles or something new? If rubber hose is new, we can rule out swollen hose problem. I have read that bleeding those later style slave cylinders is difficult because of upside-down nipple location. Bav auto sells a special tool to bleed it while unbolted from bell housing. I have one somewhere but haven't used yet (awaiting O/D 5 speed conversion).
  17. Hans
    Apologies for confusion. Trying to multi-task here. I meant throw out bearing. Here's what I got from Mike Miller some years ago. "The 323i release bearing is 30mm and the regular 2002/320i release bearing is 25mm. (The former is old style steel and the input shaft flange it rides on has to be lubricated; the latter is the new style dumbed-down plastic kind that we're not supposed to lubricate, but I do anyway.) You have to use the 30mm 323i release bearing if you want to install a Getrag 245 gearbox in a 2002 with a 228mm clutch. It is part number 21 51 1 204 525. Best regards, Mike Miller BMW CCA Roundel Magazine Technical Editor techtalk@roundel.org auspuf2002@aol.com I had the same problem with the C/R 5 speed in my car - I don't recall specifies of sizes, but I installed transmission after changing to 228 clutch with the wrong bearing and spent days screwing around with hydraulics and push rods until the bearing issue dawned on me. Took out transmission, changed bearing, and all was well. But I'm still curious about the lack of fluid.
  18. Hans
    I'm not sure why Pertronix would be affected by engine warming up. Try pulling a plug wire when engine is warm and see if you get a good spark. How old are the plug wires? 10 or 15 minutes running doesn't sound like fuel pump, but I have heard of the tank pick-up filter becoming clogged with floating grunge, and releasing said grunge when engine is turned off.
  19. Hans
    Been there, done that. You should, as recommended, replace them all. There are cheaper alternatives than OEM, including braided steel. That hose is a pretty common application. You may already know this, but be sure to use proper pipe wrenches and penetrating oil on the connections. The male fitting on the metal pipes tend to rust to the pipe, so you risk twisting the metal pipe - not good. You want to undo rubber hose while holding metal pipe fitting steady. If you're replacing rubber hose anyway, just cut it so it turns.
  20. Hans
    The 5 speed requires a specific pilot bearing dimension which is different than the stock 4 speed. So it may have been new, but was it the right one? If not, even full extension of slave will not totally release the pressure plate. Coming back to the lack of fluid at bleeder, is there a rubber hose in that line, and if so, is it new-ish?
  21. Hans
    15 psi is enough. Did you replace rubber hose to slave cyl?
  22. Hans
    on the way
  23. Hans
    If memory serves, the two hoses feed the top and bottom pairs of pistons independently. So my idea is that lack of fluid at upper nipple indicates lack of fluid coming thru that part of the system. I think you said you were using pressure bleeder - if so, try instead having someone push pedal to get more pressure. That should blow most anything out of calliper if that is the issue. But if that is the case, you have a bigger problem and safety issue. I assume you checked bleed nipple hole. You could also pull metal pipe at calliper, put it in a bottle, and have someone press pedal to see if fluid squirts out. I suppose the hole in the calliper could have rusted shut, but I'd expect more widespread braking issues if things had got to that state.
  24. Hans
    I'd be looking at rubber hose that feeds top piston under fender. They swell shut over time. Pull that one and see if you can blow through. If not, best to replace all six (two at back).
  25. Hans
    perhaps start with change of fluid.
×
×
  • Create New...