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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    perhaps start with change of fluid.
  2. Hans
    Good points (no pun) from der Hack. SOmewhewrer in archives is post on coil testing. I saw Pertronix as a way to avoid testing condensers, constantly fiddling with points and dwell meters, etc. I too found timing was much more stable. $75 well invested me thinks. If I'm not mistaken, the blue coil has internal resistor - that's what I've got.
  3. Hans
    i've got several in Ottawa. pic?
  4. Hans

    carbon pin

    Hans replied to a topic in Parts Wanted

    would this work? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310565321932&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123
  5. Hans
    If the head and front cover are not machined together, it will leak big time. It woiuld be clearly visible around front upper cover seams. The burning smell comes from oil getting on the exhaust manifold or down pipe. Use flash light to look for source. Check around the top cover/head seam on exhaust side with a paper towel. Another sneaky spot is out of manifiold studs: the uppers go into the rocker area, and can weap after time. That requires removong manifold to fix.
  6. Hans
    I don't think Pertronix cares what coil you have. As I recall, difference between red and blue is that the latter has internal resistor. Somewhere on FAQ there is comparison. In any event, I'd do Pertronix conversion first as suggested, and see how you like it. I noticed a big difference. Make sure plug wires are good too.
  7. Hans
    My suggestion about front vs rear was based on my own experience assisting with installation of Carl Nelson 2002 package - looking at springs sitting on the floor, they appeared to be be backwards. As I recall, fronts went in without compressor (use weight of car to compress and tighten strut nut), rears slid in without compressor once half shafts were levered down (undo CV joint first).
  8. Hans
    Are you sure you've got the front springs in there, and not the rears?
  9. Hans
    You certainly appear to have a leak there. Is that wire connected to the sender tab? It appears to be off in the pic. Even if it is on, is it possible it makes contact with vacuum pipe?? Perhaps a bit specialized for Napa, but you may need to take old one with you to get correct threads - unless you can determine that some other way (thread gauge for example)
  10. Hans
    caliper bolt hole spacing is wider on tii.
  11. Hans
    The thing to watch is the woodruff key. I try to angle it SLIGHTLY down at the front to get it started in the pulley groove.
  12. Hans
    There are two styles of senders - with different threads. You could try that first. I was trying to think of how loose connection at sender would cause problem - seems to me the light comes on when line is grounded by switch. Unless something is touching the terminal. Oil pressure tester looks interesting - choose the correct fitting, screw into sender hole, hook up gauge, start engine with someone watching under hood - and prob holding rag around fitting just in case. No need to rev engine - fast idle will tell you if pressure is steady.
  13. Hans
    If memory serves, some early BMWs with "factory" A/C had a solenoid that increased idle speed when A/C was on. Sounds like compressor is slowing engine. Depending on where you live (ambient temp) going to 20/50 oil might help, but simple fix is to increase idle speed slightly. Idle should be around 8-900 stock. If light comes on at that speed, you may have other problems.
  14. Hans
    Is the light on all the time with A/C on, or just at idle?
  15. Hans
    Is the light on all the time with A/C on, or just at idle?
  16. Hans
    What viscosity oil are you using? The only connection between A/C and oil pressure is idle speed (or perhaps overheating - but then temp gauge would show that).
  17. Hans
    IDF has differnt base gasket part number, which could mean iIDF is different than DCOE. Certialy Pierce DCOE gaskets will be fine. Not sure about spacers.
  18. Hans

    WTB CV Joints

    Hans replied to Hans's topic in Parts Wanted

    Thanks. Some cars came with flanges drilled to accept either style. Sadly mine is not so equiped. I'm not desperate enough to start changing flanges. I actually have everything I need except the hat shaped backing plate for the CV joint drilled with 3+3 pattern.
  19. Hans
    This is in reference to soft mounts, not Ti insulators- the latter fit nicely with nylock nut.
  20. Hans
    Solex PHH and DCOE base gaskets are the same.
  21. Hans
    I'm using one paper gasket with no apparent problems. I would have used Ti insulators, but they created clearance problems re booster (this on a 2000CS). One problem pointed out in the thread is that studs on Ti manifolds are not quite long enough to get spring washer properly tensioned while getting enough thread bite on nuts.
  22. Hans

    WTB CV Joints

    Hans posted a topic in Parts Wanted

    WTB: CV joints with asymmetric bolt pattern (3+3 rather than 6 even spaced holes).
  23. Hans
    Make sure rear brakes are adjusted before bleeding.
  24. Hans
    Getting back to the original question, try Pierce Manifolds for "soft mount" kits. Cheaper to buy whole kit than just O-rings. They also have what looks to be a better option. However, they are a bear to install with carbs in place, and those O-rings dissintigrate and crack over time. That was my experience. Advice from Ireland was to use paper gasket only. Original Ti and CS came with bakelite insulators and gaskets on each side - prob better but depends on clearance available. I read elsewhere that float bowl vibration in DCOEs was more of an issue with race applications (high rpms). I bought new carbs from Ireland - maybe not the cheapest, but at least you are dealing with knowledgeable and approachable people.
  25. Hans
    What sort of pressure readings are people seeing - hot/cold, idle/4000rpms ?
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