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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    The wind chill is going to get the carb below freezing at speed. Back in the day, part of the winterization ritual was to move the snorkel lever to the winter setting. Since you don't have that , perhaps the shield would help a bit. A good dose of methyl hydrate gas line anti freeze might help, but the problem is very cold air blasting by and thru the carb.
  2. Hans
    I find it easier if you start in in on a slight angle, tehn push.
  3. Hans
    I also have twin DCOEs and OEM pump took hours to prime them - for whatever reason. I put Facet on originally to use as a primer pump, then thought 'what the hell" and removed mechanical pump. A few seconds of ticking, and starts right up. Now, I do carry the old set-up in the trip box, and it is a bit noisier than mechanical. Whether you need that for 38/38, I don't know.
  4. Hans
    Plastic float I assume. Then yes. With the gasket. I've seen more recommended but went for about 13. Plenty of info on doing that. I painted a line at 33 deg on pulley for use with reg timing light. Seems to me 3 turns out with Spanish dcoes is start point.
  5. Hans
    are you sure the flywheel doesn't have a TDC mark? Or did it not have a positioning dowel? Much easier to see teh front pulley; challenge is getting a pointer attached.
  6. Hans
    Good point. In theory....... In any event, I wouldn't sweat trying to locate new shims until I had determined there was a need. I've been keeping an eye on my trailing arms since 1976.
  7. Hans
    There have been a number of discussions of this on FAQ. My recollection is that you don't need to do the re-calculation if you are using the original trailing arm, spacer tube and shim.
  8. Hans
    As per Preyupy, I spent hours fiddling with my carbs only to discover a bad plug wire, and more importantly, I wasn't using enough advance. Getting that right made a huge difference. Hence our ongoing return to this step. You need a timing light to confirm what is happening. Swapping jets is down the list.
  9. Hans
    Ideally you put the same shim/spacer back in the same side.
  10. Hans
    As Preyupy said, 32 to 34 deg by 3000 to start. That means about 10 deg at idle with a non vac dizzy on my car. I don't know how thoroughly IE checks floats, etc., so doesn't hurt to revisit settings. You may need to make your own paint marks on the flywheel or ftont pulley.
  11. Hans
    And the timing? Fuel pressure regulator? Float levels?
  12. Hans
    Seems like only yesterday 500 bucks got you a whole car.
  13. Hans
    How are you setting timing?
  14. Hans
    Bottom line is, make sure cap nuts are not bottoming out, for whatever reason.
  15. Hans
    I believe they have some sort of new distributor. May or may not be suitable for your needs. I think that electronic ignition will smooth out some of the issues presented by a used distributor, as long as advance systems work.
  16. Hans
    says used right in the title. What about rogers Tii?
  17. Hans
    That said, $500 for a used distributor? I'm rich!! Now, I would be careful buying a used distributor without inspection in case the bushings are worn.
  18. Hans
    Tii with vacuum advance?
  19. Hans
    Look on Realoem for part numbers and google them. Or find a local bearing store (they often carry u-joints) and take it in.
  20. Hans
    It looks like there are two sizes, 26 and 28 MM. Google the part numbers for sources of generic u-joints. Or find a u-joint outlet near you and take them the old one to match. Or as suggested, a driveshaft facility. I may have something in the garage, but it's still snowed in!
  21. Hans
    So what is it that you are looking for?
  22. Hans
    Long winter in WA?
  23. Hans
    I would be inclined to prop hood open for this exercise.
  24. Hans
    while you've got everything apart....
  25. Hans
    why not replace the U-joint?
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