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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    I have one brake shoe in parts for sale.
  2. Hans
    can you determine if its coming from front or back? maybe backing plate scraping? Hard to imagine centre bearing screeching. What happens when you touch the brake pedal? Or turn the steering wheel from side to side.
  3. Hans
    or just google the part number....
  4. Hans
    BTW, BMW offers a spacer for the rear seal 11141252897 that does the same thing.
  5. Hans
    I'm not so sure about the self-tapping screws in that application.....
  6. Hans
    The spacers hold the spring in place and spread out the pressure I expect. Somebody out there must have some used one dot ones available.
  7. Hans
    I'd be looking at the fast idle mechanism as described above, and then I 'd be checking points condition, gap dwell and doing timing adjustment ASAP. 35 deg may be a bit too much for a stock setup - maybe back off to 30-32 to start, then add a bit if it doesn't ping and seems healthier.
  8. Hans
    Form long term, I find a bolt of the correct diameter with some smooth shank/collar under the head. Short term, golf tee. I think those caps are better on hard lines/pipes.
  9. Hans
    If the tach needle just plops back to zero, I'd be thinking about some electrical problem caused by movement of the engine. I'd think a sudden vacuum leak would cause some engine roughness before conking out.
  10. Hans
    Plus you have source all the hardware to attach it. I can think of better places to spend the money and time.
  11. Hans
    But then some people spend hours filling the holes in because they like the look. I'd say trying to convert back would be a major job fraught with opportunities to screw up the paint. I would resist the temptation to use the stick - on trim as that's what it will look like.
  12. Hans
    Judging from the pictures, both subframe mounting bolt sockets are toast. There is no way to adjust the cross member to compensate for a slight deviation in welding in the replacement. So the risk is that the car will crab. I'm sure there is a way to have this done properly with frame alignment jigs, but is it worth it?
  13. Hans
    The problem is, this an important structural part of the car, and the suspension mounting points have to precisely located for the car to track properly. This is a big job.Not ot mention that hole under the dash. How much time/effort/money are you prepared to invest with the risk that it might not work? As above, if this was a keepsake car, maybe. I'd be scouting around for a better starting point.
  14. Hans
    By removed, do you mean the holes have been welded shut?
  15. Hans
    As I suggested, get somebody to move the steering wheel back and forth about 1/8 turn each way I suppose, while you get down on the ground and use a flash light to see if there is play in any of the joints, or use your fingers to fell for any play at the joint.Any idea of the mileage on these parts?
  16. Hans
    Its been said before and is still valid: most of your carb problems are electrical. I solved virtually all my DCOE tuning problems by replacing plug wires and setting timing at about 33 deg max advance at about 3000 rpm. Did you do points/dwell? I've seen a 32/36 where the jets were switched - primary to secondary and vice versa. I think one of the U tube videos shows the same thing.
  17. Hans
    I would do the steering box last. NK cars all have a bit of play in the wheel at rest which somehow goes away once the car gets moving. Perhaps 02 owners can chime in. There are several cheaper possibilities suggested above, such as balance and rotating tires; if those don't work, I'd take it to an 02 independent tech for full front end inspection. I would not start throwing $500 parts at it in hopes of solving it, when it could be ball joints, bushings, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, idler arm bushings or just loose bolts on the steering box (seen that).
  18. Hans
    On the front control arm front (or wishbones above) I think it makes more sense to buy the whole arm with bushings installed. As you can see, the "while you're at it" list grows quickly. Depending on mileage, you might be looking at front wheel bearings, front bushings, ball joints and so on. Perhaps you need a mechanic to give teh car a lookover to see what it actually needs. If you plan to keep this, or any old car for awhile, and depending on your budget,it would behove you to pick up some mechanical skills, shop manual and a tool set. $160/HR is going to add up if you have to go there all the time.And BMW dealer prices are often multiples of what you can get elsewhere. To assess how bad the front end is, have an accomplce turn the steering wheel back and forth about 1/4 to 1/2 turn,while you peer under the car with a flashliht to watch the steering linkage moving. Put your hand on each joint to see which are loose.
  19. Hans
    And how are you going to ensure they don't back out and loose the other 150HP??
  20. Hans
    Check timing for a start. I'm using about 33deg max advance, which come in around 3000rpm. Search on timing to find previous threads on this. Made a big difference to my engine. I'm not familiar with one DCOE settings, but generally if mixture screws have no effect, jets may be wrong size.
  21. Hans
    Are you sure that thing will clear the booster/brake reservoirs?
  22. Hans
    After changing the same one twice that I installed dry, I really went at the hole with a small stiff wire brush, then 3M disc, then sealant. A pain in the rebuttnik working under twin DCOEs in the car. That did it.
  23. Hans
    Have you determined that the horns/air cleaner will clear the booster? I too would not do the machining, mainly because if it doesn't work, you now need to start over and find a new venturi. You can sell the horns and get some bolt-ons.
  24. Hans
    Have you asked Mr. IE about this? Perhaps that is the intent. Another option is to try the "turbo" bushing which also fits NK cars. Supposed to be tougher. Same size.
  25. Hans
    As I recall, there are not that many choices for needle valve. I'd have to look in the book, but I think 1.75 or 2.00 for 40s, but don't quote me. More critical is idle circuit choice, which governs running up to about 3000 rpm or so. If you do the search, you will get a range of settings for the package, and then you can look for correlations. You should also think about a "squirrel cage" sync. tool to balance carbs. I have a set of short bolt-on trumpets if you go that route. You should be able to see the choke size embossed on the lip. The rest of the important jets come out the top under the jet cover. I would not go buying a lot of new jets quite yet.
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