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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. The bolt on ones may be easier to deal with, but you have to consider brake booster clearance, and air cleaner arrangements. I suspect if you search on DCOE40 on FAQ< you will find a plethora of jetting set-ups. 40mm chokes may be enough to get going with stock motor.
  2. Price:: 35 Location: : East coast One right brake shoe, genuine BMW, new. Fits NK series and 2002 turbo. 34211159587 $35 incl shipping.
  3. One right brake shoe, genuine BMW, new. 34211159587 $45 incl shipping.
  4. I'd be looking in the fuel tank, and at the pick-up filter, then the lines, fuel filter. If it sat for 4 years with ethanol based fuel, I suspect you've got a load of gloop in there.
  5. you can try the old drain teh rad, refill with water, drive, drain again, repeat.Then refill with 50/50. Not perfect but easier than trying to gett hat plug out lying under the car.
  6. Be very careful using thread cutters (taps and dies) to clean threads. Thread chasers are more gentle, and less likely to start a new set of threads. that said, this is one fitting that I wouldn't want to fail because of poor threads.
  7. I wouldn't take a chance with that nut not getting a good bite on threads. Check Amazon for thread chaser kit from Kastner I believe. about $75
  8. The fluid is coming from the back of your master cylinder (assuming it is attached to the servo), so the solution for that is to rebuild/replace the cylinder. Others may be able to say whether servos can simply be cleaned out and put back into service. I've not tried it. One potential problem of rebuilding is pitting on the inside surfaces.
  9. A bad bearing will shut the motor down just once. I'd go back to the fan belt. How old is it? It can be tight, but if glazed, will slip. Check pulleys for glazing. Try sanding the belt and pulleys. Does the alternator spin freely? I can't immediately think of why a slipping belt would cause the engine to stop suddenly (unless an old battery was really low after starting). So after it stops, see if it has enough juice to start again. If not, battery may be putting too high load on the alternator which causes belt to slip.
  10. Did you try tweaking the shoes up/down a bit in case they are not centred vertically?
  11. You should also make sure the bearing back and rod surface are clean and smooth.
  12. Lets see if that helps. I would do a dry run with teh rods outside the crank case - so you can move them with out pistons attached.
  13. $30!! It isnt shown on the parts diagram for NK
  14. Is there not a stamp on the top middle of the rear engine bulkhead? Or am I thinking NK.
  15. I would check the engine ground cables, as well as the wires related to ignition.
  16. I got a comprehensive thread chasing kit on Amazon. Not to be confused with tap and die sets that actually cut threads. These are handy for cleaning and make minor corrections to old threads. As mentioned above, I would not take a chance on iffy brake line threads. This is one place you do not want to force a fitting into place.
  17. That sure trumps my ABS plumbing adapters.
  18. You'll need to find a ti airbox and rubber accordion hoses, which could be a challenge. Then you have to adapt the hoses to the DCOEs. That's where the fun starts. I used abs plumbing pieces attached to the Webber airhorns to get the correct diameter. You also need the correct brake booster, but even then, several of the tubes may rub on the booster, because the original Solexes had slanted inlets. And what Zinz says. Ti box is different.
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