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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    OK, my error. it does say front. Something to keep in mind is that the mounting points for the shock ( aka the front strut) have to end up exactly in the same place, or else the alignment will be out.
  2. Hans
    It is unlikely that the rust is limited to one shock tower.I assume were talking about the rear, in which case another piece can be grafted in. But per above, where else is rust? eg floors, pedal box, rockers, and so on.
  3. Hans
    Hats off to those who scrape off all the old crud. I would also be using some seam sealer to fill in potential water ingress spots.
  4. Hans
    I'd be looking for some good used doors.
  5. Hans
    Two causes of slow starting when hot: -vapor lock in the fuel supply to pump, often caused by having the line/filter too close to the head/motor. -air leak in line to pump. If original hose in trunk or from firewall to pump, replace it. Check that plastic sleeve is still on tank sender outlet pipe and not cracked.
  6. Hans
    Lets see: rust, rust, mmmm, rust. Did I mention rust? If the car has been "restored", it may still have rust, or bondo filled rust. A good resto requires stripping the car to the tub and cutting off the front fenders. Ask me how I know. Then as mentioned above, parts are expensive. Beautiful cars, and real attention grabbers, but not for the timid or of limited budget. If you are serious, get it up on a rack and the be prepared to lift a lot of carpet.
  7. Hans
    Thats it! I couldn't see making a new one. Originally there was a plastic sheet over the opening. I put small speakers in mine
  8. Hans
    I had to replace one three times. Drain the block, knock out the old plug, dry the hole, use a wire brush on a drill or rotary air unit, really clean the edge, then some sealant. I recall using grey silicone, but I've also used a permatex sealant. Use a fresh plug.
  9. Hans
    The distributor needs be installed initially so that #1 fires at TDC, when #1 cyl is in the firing position( both valves closed/cam lobes up). So the rotor needs be under #1 on the cap, since it only goes on in one place. The distributor can basically be turned 360 deg, and still function, but is designed so wires and vacuum line exit towards firewall - give or take. So you need to use trial and error to drop dist. into place so that rotor points more or less towards coil, then move body around to get #1 wire over rotor tip. If that lines up with notch, fine. That should get engine started, at which point you set point gap/dwell and then do timing with timing light.
  10. Hans
    did you get that sorted out?
  11. Hans
    I have no connection to sellers. http://www.kijiji.ca/b-classic-cars/ontario/bmw-700/k0c122l9004
  12. Hans
    Or buy another beater. Waste of a good 2002 to winter drive it in salt.
  13. Hans
    I vaguely recall adapting on original BMW pin assembly to fit my Momo. On a Nardi wheel, it was necessary to shorten the pin a bit.
  14. Hans
    For the reverse light, just to confirm: ignition on, car in reverse, are you getting 12V at the wire that attaches to the tray? If not, I'd test output from reverse sender. Keep working back until you find the missing link. There is a current post for 75 wiring diagram - that should tell you where 4 way gets power.
  15. Hans
    or put it in hot water
  16. Hans
    Not a good idea to add more amps. The tii page has wiring diagrams; find out what is on that circuit. Then check each of those items to see if something obvious is shorting. You may need to use a continuity tester on each hot wire to see if it is grounding.
  17. Hans
    On an old car, you should use a voltage tester rather than test lamp to be sure a full 12V are coming thru
  18. Hans
    AS other sage posters have said, most of your fuel problems are electric.Hence the bevy of suggestions that you go over the ignition system. Changing points, etc., can change timing. You should dig out the light and use it. As for fuel side, how old is the gas in the tank? Where is the engine fuel filter located? Resting on the head by any chance?
  19. Hans
    so, ignition on, car in reverse, you get 12V at the hot wire behind the bulb and no light?
  20. Hans
    search for recent post re screeching noise - suggestion was to de glaze the belt. It may be tight, but if old/glazed, it will slip.
  21. Hans
    I'd be trying a different cap.
  22. Hans
    You might try setting maximum advance to the 3000 rpm range. The 1450 rpm etc are for -as I recall- 25 deg. There have been previous posts on setting teh maximum advance (over 30deg) at 3000+rpm.
  23. Hans
    youre missing the center thrust bearings.
  24. Hans
    Not this Hans. Hard to say - need VIN. A/C is odd.
  25. Hans
    20-50 for summer. Some folks will tell you synthetics aren't compatible with the seals.
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