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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. +1 on the heater box overhaul,and any extra wiring you were contemplating.
  2. Good catch on the choke plate. Prob a good idea to check timing anyway. Good catch on the choke plate. Prob a good idea to check timing anyway. Good catch on the choke plate. Prob a good idea to check timing anyway.
  3. That's not how you set the timing. Plenty of articles on Forum, best to buy inexpensive timing light from harbor Freight. Then make sure carb is squirting gas by looking down the throats. Also Pertronix is not compatible with all coils. More searching to see whether red and maybe resistor is OK. I can't remember. Wrong coil can fry Pert.
  4. use locktite to keep stud from turning out. Do not over-torque studs in aluminium housing.
  5. Do you mean the starting circuit "chokes"? Did you resync the balance and adjust mixture screws?
  6. And the brake fluid? that can get sucked thru a bad master cyl seal and come out under de-accel as...white smoke.
  7. I think those are British Mini knockoffs popular in the 80s. Brand name GB? I got some for my Sirocco from Ton Tire in UK.
  8. Just to be clear: you topped up the reservoir, let the car sit for a few days and it was empty?? Either way, there is a lot of fluid accumulating somewhere on the car....
  9. I would strongly suggest you invest $20 in a Haynes manual from on line supplier, delivered ASAP. That will give you step by step instructions for taking apart and putting back together. How is your brake fluid level?
  10. Wasn't there an issue with E21 motors in the day - poor quality control or some such thing?
  11. Somewhere I read that those bolts were one time use only, for what that's worth. I managed to source some direct from ATE in Germany many years ago. Also be VERY careful when using air pressure to blow out pistons. Crap goes everywhere.
  12. Could you have disturbed the dist. and/or cap when changing wires? If it ran fine before wire change, then I'd be looking at dist. related issues: timing being one.
  13. Front bushing dimensions match the one I have here. They stretch when you pull them into place.See 02 side for pics on how to do it. 902 was superseded by 103. They also stretch. Easier to just buy the whole arm with bushings installed.
  14. I'm converting the old style sliding joint half shafts to CV joints. The old ones had a nub at on on end that mates with a hole in the outer flange to center the shaft.I think there is a similar arrangement on the diff flange. The new CV joints have no such centering aids - they just bolt on flat to flat. Are they self centering in some way? Or do the bolt holes pull it into place?
  15. Reverse is not synchromesh. It would appear clutch is not releasing completely. I suggest you get under the car and check arm movement.
  16. Where old long necks go to die. I see the dreaded early half shafts! I'm rebuilding my fifth one. Thanks for the pix. Appears 1600/2002 long necks use different rear cover than NK models. I'll see if someone can help on NK forum. Mount appears to cross ref to early six cyl. models.
  17. You may be able to adapt a universal choke cable. There was some other source I found years ago- maybe marine? Or lawn mower? Try google on Bowden cables.
  18. Mike Just checked realoem. Weird. It shows long neck diff alone with one rear mounting ear; but mounting parts show bracket with two mounts a la short neck. Now I have a 2000CS, which may be different. Perhaps 2002 didn't have single mount with long neck.
  19. In both cases, another thing to look at is the rubber hose. They swell shut on the inside over time. So check to see if the push rod is moving when the peddle is pushed. On the 5 speed, and I'm working from memory here, I think the bearing needs to be 30mm thick. But maybe just with 228mm. So the question for IE is: does that one work with 215mm and 5 speed. There is a procedure for checking push rod movement on the 5 speed in the shop manual, or in previous posts. I recall one from Hack Mechanic went on for 8 or 9 pages and covered every possible clutch problem known to man. If your bearing is too thin, the clutch won't release. Ask me how I know. But it could be something else.
  20. It has one mount point on the back of the diff, whereas don't short necks have two mount points on a bracket? It moves a bit if I use the floor jack.
  21. Any ideas on how much vertical travel is acceptable on rear mount for long neck diff??
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