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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    try RealOem or Bav auto, to name a few.
  2. Hans
    I'd be inclined to find a 5 speed.Overdrive 5th makes a huge difference. A little extra money now, but you'll be kicking yourself later for doing all that work to put in a 4 speed.
  3. Hans
    I assume you have parts from a donor car?
  4. Hans
    put the car in top gear, push car forward to rotate engine. Either watch for timing mark on front pulley or pull valve cover and watch cam lobes on #1. Pull some plugs if necessary. That gets you tdc. At that point, the rotor should be lined up with #1 pin on the dist cap. From there you can do rough timing with test lamp method. One engine is running, set max timing advance (plenty of instructions on FAQ) Then I'd look at choke operation. If choke is working you shouldnt have to pump the gas, etc. Plenty of choke threads on FAQ
  5. Hans
    Maybe I need more coffee,but I can't see the connection between rotor tip width and advance.
  6. Hans
    No mosquitos left after that.
  7. Hans
    That said it would b tempting to change the 40 year old hose from valve to heater. Sometimes you can GENTLY cut a slit in the hose over the connection - a dozen or so shallow repeat cuts minimizes strain.
  8. Hans
    My 47 year old bushings came out with the Peterschop method - threaded rod, washers, etc. The front ones as you know will come out using the radius rod as a lever. If using stock bushings, easier to buy new arms.
  9. Hans
    I think you mean crank engine with coil disconnected. Best to ground the big wire.I would crank until oil light goes off. Did you put oil in each cyl? If you start with valve cover off, you will have a mess. I would put some break-in grease or moly grease on the cam lobes and slowly pour oil over all the parts in there, as part of the fill. You will need fresh gas, and maybe pull top of carb to see what float chamber looks like. Four year old gas residue can be a problem. The gas tank may be full of crap and the pick-up stainer clogged. I'd use a container of new gas and a tube to the fuel pump, but be VERY careful where you put it. I'd spray car cleaner through the jets. Then put some gas in the float bowl - a little will do.
  10. Hans
    There's nothing that time and money won't solve. If you had some sentimental attachment to the car, or it was a Turbo (or Diana apparently)it might make sense. But some of that repair requires advanced welding skills. At some point, the rust vs repair cost curves cross, and its time to look for a donor shell for all the euro goodies. If its that bad in there, the trunk area is prob suspect. How much time do you want to spend trying to save it when you could be driving something else.
  11. Hans
    Very nice. Oh, ti is OK too.
  12. Hans
    Then I'd be looking for a used diff.
  13. Hans
    you s-cored big time! I paid 90 for test and patch on old one.
  14. Hans
    it revs to 4000 by itself? How do you know the throttle plates are not sticking open?
  15. Hans
    I think its closest to L side of car. its open at the bottom of the hole. Should be in manual. Its about 1/8" thick, maybe 3/8" diam.
  16. Hans
    +1 on jgerock re donut. My recollection is that my donut is much more compressed. That said, its prob 50 years old.
  17. Hans
    Some go on the outlet pipes on the back of the head, H20 drain plug. Some they throw in to confuse us. Don't lose the special little gasket for the dist. housing bolt.
  18. Hans
    AS I recall, the tranny end of the drive shaft has a hole that fits over a pin on the output flange of the tranny. If this is prevented from seating fully by the washers, would that allow some play? Maybe use bigger diameter washers and slightly longer bolts.
  19. Hans
    Interesting in Tomscat's pictures, the car has a air intake snorkle tube beside the rad - which I thought real ti's didnt have..
  20. Hans
    I wouldn't get too far ahead of the curve ordering accessories before ensuring you understand the extent of rust and necessary body work. $4K isn't going to get you a lot of rust repair, which may not become evident until you strip out carpets, trunk lining, etc. Should you require assistance, I'm in Ottawa.
  21. Hans
    I'm wondering if you've got all the bits in that locate the ball on the shift lever in the cup on the shift platform. Perhaps you are missing some bits that would locate the shift lever higher relative to the platform and hence the drive shaft.I don't have a good diagram at hand, but I recall several springs and spacers in there with the two plastic cups.
  22. Hans
    I can see the groove on the drive shaft. It appears to be touching the bottom of the linkage as you described. Did you install both of the two dished pieces of plastic that hold the ball on the bottom of the lever? I'm wondering if that donut is too thick, and is pushing the platform down. I don't have access to a car to check right now, but perhaps someone can advise on how close the platform should be to the floor.
  23. Hans
    Do you have the old foam donut? Maybe compare the two re thickness. That new one looks pretty thick.
  24. Hans
    check realoem.com I think they are all the same.
  25. Hans
    You'll have to excuse me, but I don't get it. 150K Euros for that?
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