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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Carl nelson once suggested drilling out the extra holes on the flange to convert to symmetrical CV shafts.
  2. Hans
    Hey Mark, small world!
  3. Hans
    It is my understanding (and hope) that the cv shafts 33213614860 with asymmetric holes are the right length to work with long neck. Real OEM drawing shows long neck diff and stub axle with 10 hole flanges. Those were, as I understand it, to accommodate old and new style half shafts, be they old or new joints, asymmetric or symmetric bolts. Attached photo of another car. Haven't tried to install CV shafts yet. Too cold.
  4. Hans
    I'm not sure exactly when the CV shafts began to replace the sliding/u-joint versions. Late 60s anyway. CV shafts with assymmetric bolt holes exist - you just have to watch the ads. Or find all four flanges with 10 holes, and use any later 02 CV shaft.
  5. Hans
    BMAparts. Under $20. I figured what the hell, cheap insurance. I have, however, recycled a few sets with no probs.
  6. Hans
    Alpina sold cars in UK which had MPH. Just saying...
  7. Hans
    Are you using a pressure regulator? How is the idle? Try setting the maximum timing rather than the ball. This has been discussed before. Max advance should be 33 to 36 deg, at about 3000rpm. I marked 33 deg on front pulley where I could see it better. Or use electronic timing light.I screwed around with carbs for some time before following IE advice to get enough timing advance.
  8. Hans
    Just make sure you use closed cell foam tape. I used some thin stuff on the flaps, thicker on the heater body. I'n not sure if its easier to put the foam an the car or on the heater.
  9. Hans
    Soft mounts are a pig to tighten properly with carbs on the car. The O-rings crack but you can't see them. I'm in the "tried them and turfed them" camp.Per IE, I'm using just one gasket. All is good. I'd use the ti spacers but that creates a clearance problem on my car.
  10. Hans
    I read somewhere that you'd have to be going several hundred mph to gain anything from ram air plumbing because the vacuum creted by the engine is so strong. What a ram air duct will do is bring cooler air into the carb.I'd be playing with jetting and timimg.
  11. Hans
    The final job will look much better if you pull all the lights, grills, chrome, rubber seals. Anything you don't want painted body color. Front and rear windows should come out to check for rust, but you can work around those if need be. Rear side windows are more of a pain to remove so maybe leave them. Depends on what kind of re-spray you want: quick and dirty, or something you'll be pleased with down the road.
  12. Hans
    Agree. This is not an example of "while you're in there".It can be a pig of a job getting the nuts and hubs off, and then extracting the shaft. Wait until you can feel play, or hear noises.
  13. Hans
    I would definitely check the linkage from underneath first - maybe with someone in the car to move the lever. Also check that the lever stays firmly seated: there is a ball in the middle of the lever that sits between two plastic cups with washers and a spring. The lever should have minimal vertical travel.
  14. Hans
    +1 on above diagnosis. Synchro problems usually are evidenced by a graunching when down-shifting - more often second gear goes first. So to speak. The problem with trying to get it repaired is parts - depending on what is required.Buying new parts will get painful, an then you have a few new parts in an old transmission. I suspect the cost of repairing will quickly surpass the cost of a decent used unit.
  15. Hans
    You can ground it anywhere convenient as long as there is a good bare metal contact.
  16. Hans
    Is there not a place for ground strap on the battery tray?
  17. Hans
    Make sure you have #1 at TDC. Flooding is a possibility. Pull and clean the plugs. As is often said, most of your carb problems are electrical. Make sure the ignition components are in good shape. A weak spark may not ignite. You need a good clean connection for the engine ground.
  18. Hans
    6mm or 8mm fuel hose is available at your local auto parts store. Also check piece in trunk to tank.
  19. Hans
    I would replace that cracked bit of hose, and the old fabric coated fuel line, plus the items listed above and the fuel filter and then see how things are working.
  20. Hans
    Try booster cables with the neg ground clamp on the exposed head bolt at back of head. Hot cable can go on hot lead at battery - assuming it is not the culprit. Otherwise attach it directly to the starter. How old is the battery? If you try jumping via a weak battery, you are not putting all the juice to the starter. I recently replaces all the big cables - they are getting on for 50 years.
  21. Hans
    when you connected teh jumper cables, did you connect ground cable to the block or the battery?
  22. Hans
    If the headlights work, problem may be that starter is not getting full juice. Could be terminals on battery, or connections on big cable to starter and/or ground straps from block to frame. If you try using jumper cable to starter, be very careful. I'd start by cleaning all the connection points.
  23. Hans
    You might do better to use that radio with one speaker in the console to recreate driving in the early 70s. If you want real music that can be heard, get a newer stereo unit with input for ipod, etc. and hook it to the other speakers. It can hide in the console, or glove box.
  24. Hans
    if its coming from the metal thing that holds the fan to the engine, that would be the water pump, which can leak from a small hole in the bottom when the internal seals give out. Also might be where the hose connects to the water pump (on pass. side of pump). You could try turning the hose clamp screw another 1/4 turn.
  25. Hans
    Check Amazon for thread chaser kits. I got Kastar 971 - Master Thread Chase Kit.Seems fine.
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