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jscaptura1

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Everything posted by jscaptura1

  1. jscaptura1
    File this under stupid things I've done! I was having the same problems with my 70 1600, changed all of the above & still the car would heat up on long drives or under load. I had not checked the transmission or rear end myself for a couple of years. I have a local school/Tech program of High School students inspect & service the car periodically and ask them to check those when servicing the car because there are small leaks in each. So I finally decide to jack the car up, put it on stands & check them myself. To my surprise (and stupidity for not doing this myself every year) the transmission was very low on oil. I added until fluid came out the side hole. Then moved to the rear end: Same thing! Filled it up & presto, car running smoother and not heating up under load. I'm not saying that is your problem but is just something else you may want to check & service. I will be doing a complete change of both when the car comes out for the spring. Also look for coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. For me, I had no mixing of oil & coolant so I had to start looking elsewhere which led me to the drivetrain. Also check to see if any of your brakes are hanging up as they may help contribute to your engine having to work a little harder. Good luck!
  2. jscaptura1
    About 15 years ago. Car & kids still look great. I don't. Thats why I'm adding a 15 year old picture!
  3. jscaptura1
    +1 on dev02, Mine has 154K, and stays the same every year! Changed the Transmission about 20 years ago, could not hook the odo cable back up. Trans has been great and motor is all original with my estimate of about 185K now.
  4. jscaptura1
    Granada is the best!
  5. jscaptura1
    Early 1985, College freshman buys his first car from a Chemistry Prof. at Cornell University. A 1970 BMW 1600! Installed a Sanyo Digital cassette player, dropped in Red Barchetta by Rush, blasted around the original 6.6 mile road course in the Glen! That is still my favorite drive in that car, same radio, same cassette! Listening to that song today takes me back to: The scented country air, shifting & drifting, the one lane bridge (it is actually the old stone bridge, 2 lanes, but very tricky if you are going fast enough), that song is the perfect mental picture of that drive. If anyone is ever in the Glen, do yourself a favor, start on Franklin St., drop in Red Barchetta and follow the signs around the original course. It is a drive you will never forget!
  6. jscaptura1
    I had this problem after changing the calipers and steel lines. Went to bleed the brakes, almost no fluid came out, then disconnected the rubber brake lines(original) and almost no fluid drained from them. Then changed all 4 rubber flex hoses & presto! No problems bleeding them. When we were bleeding the brakes before I changed the flex hoses, the pedal was very difficult/almost impossible to depress. +1 on mlytle & esty on disconnecting the lines, that is what did the trick for me.
  7. jscaptura1
    I'll be looking (I always am). Last year I brought my 68 mustang but I try to bring the 1600 because there are always so few 02's there.
  8. jscaptura1
    In the southern tier area of NY, I have just about the only 02 around. I am at the Vintage in The Glen every year with it (The Granada 1600 parked on 7th street if you saw it) and rarely see any others at the vintage. I think I only saw 2 others this year. I live now in the Horseheads/Elmira area and there are NONE here. There used to be a few around but as time passes in the rust belt, they have (literally) disappeared! Sadly I am preparing to put the 1600 away for the winter so it will be off the road for the next 6-7 months. I don't like to take chances up here in the northeast so I put it away well before the snow and will wait until after several spring rainfalls to remove any salt from the roads before I bring it out again.
  9. jscaptura1
    Rob, Thanks for the advice on the flare wrenches. Me being the cheap bastard that I am, had decided to myself, "I can make it work with my regular wrenches". Then I sat down & started looking at those lines and said " do I really want to replace those lines all the wayfrom the master cylinder?" No way, drove over to Sears, bought a set of Metric flare wrenches, right front lines came off nice and easy, no turning of the firring on the steel line. But Rob, you were wrong on one thing, I am not thanking myself, I am thanking YOU! I sat therelooking at those lines and saying "Rob said that for a reason, I really need to listen to someone other than my cheap ass self for once!" Will ley you know how the other side goes when the parts come in on Tuesday. Have a great Holiday!
  10. jscaptura1
    Thanks for the info Guys! I have a set of rubber hoses from Autopart international. They actually had them in stock! I have already (several years ago) replaced all of the rear brake lines. The front hoses look good but I am sure they are the original lines. I am going to get into them tomorrow & Monday. My biggest concern is breaking the lines that come through the body to the flex hoses. I am planning on cutting each hose and then turning the hose and not the steel lines. Hopefully this will keep the steel lines and fittings intact. Then I will attach the new hoses to the older lines and then to the new lines that travel to the new calipers. Thanks again for the help & I will update on how the job is progressing.
  11. jscaptura1
    With the car running, up on jack stands and wheels off, I pressed the brakes, the left front released and the right front did not. I turnrf the car off, pressed the brakes again. The left front released again the right front stayed on. Released the pressure from the right front caliper by loosening then tightening the bleeder screws. Right front moved freely. Applied brakes with car off, right front would not release and left front is more difficult to turn. Hope that description will help. Thanks Again!
  12. jscaptura1
    After changing both calipers and steel brake lines from the hoses to the calipers, then bleeding the brakes, my calipers won't release after letting off the gas pedal. If I release the pressure from the bleeders, the rotors will turn freely. As soon as I apply the brakes again, the calipers won't release. Am I correct in that my next step will be to replace the hoses? Is it possible that I crossed the 2 lines and hooked them up to the wrong fittings? When bleeding, the rigt front caliper does not allow the same amount of brake fluid out as the left front caliper. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help!
  13. jscaptura1
    After removing the front calipers on my '70 1600, I of course broke all 4 lines going from the rubber flex hoses to the caliper. I measured them to be about 14" long. Of course the local auto parts stores only carry 12" or 20" lines. My question: Can I get away with using the 20" lines? The 12" lines look just a little too short to fit. Also, what is the best way to bend the lines? The last time I put lines on this car was about 20 years ago and I don't really remember how I did it! Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get it fixed before the Grand Prix Vintage Festival next week at the Glen. I am usually one of the few (and sometimes only) '02 at the festival.
  14. jscaptura1
    +1 on the guibo. That solved my driveline vibration problem and it is not too difficult to change! Welcome & Good Luck!
  15. jscaptura1
    +1 to radio9phs, I had the same problem on my '70 1600. It turned out the plunger in the door was not working proprtly and was leaving the dome light on if the door was not completely shut. A little lubrication on the plunger and a change of the dome bulb solved the problem.
  16. jscaptura1
    Check your voltage regulator as well. I had a similar problem on my 1600. Had an old regulator from a parts car that I carried around for years. Swapped them & did not have the problem again. Replaced with a new voltage regulator a few weeks later and has been fine for the last several years.
  17. jscaptura1
    Wow! Nice find. Up here in the Northeast, you almost NEVER see original examples like that. My vote would be to leave it the way it is. Repair things as needed to keep it stock since you have another one you can modify. Congratulations on a great find!
  18. jscaptura1
    Spent Sunday at the Glen Region Autocross. My son & I ran our 99 318ti M Package in G Stock. He won class, I was second by .052 of a second!
  19. jscaptura1
    A 40 year old starter is a 40 year old starter! I still have the original starter in mine (43 years) but have replaced the alternator twice. When the cars get to be that age, things will break, no matter how well you take care of them. Good luck!
  20. jscaptura1
    1970 1600. Granada. Owned since 1984. Watkins Glen NY. BMW2.bmp BMW1.bmp
  21. jscaptura1
    The marker put me on the corner of 4th & Franklin st in the Glen, That is the final corner on the original 6.6 mile road course that went through the village and around the state park.
  22. jscaptura1
    Done
  23. jscaptura1
    OK, Here Goes: 1970 BMW 1600 Granada 1971 BMW 1600 (Sold) 1968 BMW 2002 (Parts/Sold) 1973 BMW Bavaria (Sold) 1980's Mazda GLC 1970 Buick LeSabre 1985 Dodge Omni GLH 1989 Pontiac Sunbird 1987 Plymouth Voyager (Ouch) 1986 Chevy Celebrity Eurosport 1982 BMW 528i 1993 Nissan Altima 1999 Saturn (Ouch again!) 1998 Ford Explorer 1996 Ford Explorer 1999 Suzuki Grand Vitara 1996 Ford Contour 1999 Ford Contour Sport 1974 SAAB Sonnet (Never got it running) 1997 BMW 318ti (Sold) 1999 BMW 318ti (M Package With California roof) 2000 BMW 528i 2002 BMW 325Ci 2003 BMW X5 4.4 1968 Ford Mustang Thats all I can remember at this point, Some pretty ugly purchases in there!
  24. jscaptura1

    The 1600

    Images added to a gallery album owned by jscaptura1 in Member's Albums

  25. jscaptura1
    Rikka & Renner In 1600 002

    From the album: The 1600

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