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I don't get the small mindedness sometimes displayed when it comes to products from China. There are a lot of crappy products and sellers (companies and individuals) from USA, Germany, or pretty much any place on this planet. I'm sure most of us have experienced this. If you believe Bosch sells you a substandard product that was made in China -- why blame China -- blame Bosch -- for not extending their "German" quality to all parts they offer. I've experienced good German Bosch parts as well as horrible German Bosch parts. I've seen good and bad Bosch India parts. When the parts are bad, I blame Bosch's quality control or business decisions - not where it's made. If the availability of cheap Chinese goods has threatened local manufacturers, why blame the Chinese manufacturer for offering a product that the end customers (you and I included) are willing to buy -- they're just competing in a free market. I for one am extremely grateful for the greater choice offered by the increased competition from around the globe. And my hats off to the local players who have stepped up their game and thrived. Just my $0.02 Byas EDIT: This should have been in the OT forum - my bad! I don't know how to move it now.

Did '76s come with non-snorkel noses? this one is...

Are downpipes interchangeable across all 2002s? Byas

Were there any square tail light Tourings?

Yes, aware of this and Java is disabled. But, even with Java disabled, many threads are still infected with pop-ups which show up despite the presence of ad-block and pop-up blockers. Site search "Repa seat belt install and click first result" -- still get pop-ups. Looks like Steve spent quite a bit of time/$ getting experts to go thru the site, but the results don't seem to have improved.

Yes, the site is infected despite the protestations of some who claim that it's a user problem.

Sounds to me like a relay overheating. When you turn it off, it does not come back on till it cools down a bit perhaps. Perhaps you can swap the high beam and low beam relays and see if the problem shifts to the high beams. Then its the relays.

What's the difference between Tii battery tray and regular battery tray? Can a removable tray be installed on the Tii? Will any 2002 removable tray work or specific years? Thx, Byas (currently site search is not a friend -- too many infected threads)

I'm seeing more older threads infected with pop-ups... http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/p,929840/highlight,/sid,db7be536e3c39b5b01d26b0029609fcc/ http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,290543/start,12/postdays,0/postorder,asc/highlight,/sid,36ded95752caf0738875493b9ecdf699/ Firefox, Java disabled, Pop-up block on, Adblock-plus

I believe that's the part that keeps the glass stable within the channel as you raise/lower it - preventing wobbling.

Site search"repa seat belt install" and click on first link. See what happens. It's not the site... yes, let's put our head in the sand

I think you have an exhaust leak somewhere which is letting in air and letting out exhaust -- explains the smell as well as AFR. At idle, the air inflow is not limited by the exhaust, but by the throttle valve, so changing header should have no impact.

There are some relays that are closed when off vs open when off. Perhaps you have the wrong type

Pls check this thread... https://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/p,923526/highlight,/sid,61c6295a8bfaa694b89148633314ec01/&sa=U&ei=lf3sUIjYOMa5igL2wYC4Dg&ved=0CAcQFjAA&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNE9F0CMIwc09qa8kEeZEtbCEncHmw NOt sure if I copied it correctly. Alternatively, search "Repa seat belt install" on Site Search and click on the first thread. I get the ad on that thread from multiple machines. Byas[/url]

I plan to make it to the meeting this week. B

Thomas, Is there a shelf life for these lines? How long can I store it before I install. I am buying as future install, not an immediate need, so wondering. Byas

Easier solution is Repositionable spray avail at your Art supply store (3M and other brands). Spray it on and fix the plastic sheeting. It is convenient as you can remove without damaging the sheet and can reseal without needing to respray.

I use Firefox with pop-up blocker enabled. But, it still showed up. B

I've started seeing pop-up ads on some of the FAQ forum threads. Is this intended? If not, perhaps this is the reason that the warning's still show up occasionally?

Mounting the belt The c-pillar location is 3 1/4" above the latch (at least for a '74). I mounted the upper loop first, and the mounted the retractor so that it was in line with the upper mount. Here's what it looked like mounted. The belt operates very freely and does not rub against the seat or the side panel. Here's a pic of the space around the belt. A sleeve as Al mentions would be a plus, but there seems to be enough space as is (at least on this car). So far, so good. Then the disappointment -- the buckle from the front seat belt will not fit in the rear seat belt receiver. It's the same shape, but just a hair thicker. Back to the drawing board. At least the concept of the location works. And, I've figured out how to make an oler belt work better. Will see if I can adapt the front receiver to the back. Byas Go Packers (me) Go Redskins (wife)[/i]

Fixing the Inertial Locking Mechanism: Inertial mechanism on my old passenger side retractor did not work properly (as posted above), but the driver side one worked, plus I had 2 new units to compare it to. So, this morning I thought I'd try to understand why it did not work. I had read thru umpteen patent filings from the 60s and 70s last night on intertial locking retractors to understand that the basic mechanism is pretty straight forward. In this REPA unit, it consists of 2 toothed wheels. The outer one is connected to reel axle, while the inner wheel rotates loosely coaxially to the outer wheel. A circular spring acts between the reel body and the inner wheel pushing it out towards the outer wheel and locking it. When the reel unwinds quickly, the outer wheel turns faster than the inner wheel -- and ramps in the tooth push the inner wheel towards the reel body (after overcoming the spring resistance). The inner wheel then locks against cogs on the reel body preventing further reel rotation. The spring in my non-working unit seemed to have similar tension as the good ones so that did not seem to be the problem. Cleaning with various spray cleaners and compressed air did no help either. It turned out the problem was that there was just s little bit of sticky greaselike residue in the valleys of the teeth of the outer wheel, that caused the inner wheel to stick to it. Was not much stickiness, but enough to prevent the lock from consistently engaging. Here's a picture of the locking mech in normal position -- unengaged. You can see the silver inner wheel and the brass colored outer. Here's what it looks like in the locked position: I used a tiny screwdriver to loosen the deposits and used q-tips soacked in isopropyl alchohol to clean the valleys while holding the mechanism in the locked position. That did it -- it now locks easily. This is easy enough to do and the results were quite dramatic. It seems like this should be a preventive maintenance feature for those running older belts to ensure the locking works well. Byas

Turns out the mechanism unscrews out pretty easily -- but not where I thought it would. The Pendulum actually is 3 parts: Once the plastic cap on the pendulum is removed, the pendulum top and bottom. With this pendulum removed, the reel works well in any position. Of course, the inertial lock on this particular reel does not work well -- and that's the most critical element, so I would not want to use this reel. But, good for mocking up the fit etc. Byas PS: I'm sure all of what I've posted so far is not news to Al, but I thought it would be good to record it for others who want to experiment.

Al, I was thinking that the lower part of the belt would be mounted where the stock rear retractor is mounted today at the back corner of the seat bottom) -- so the lap portion should still fit well. Some more investigation showed that yes, the belts are limited to a narrow vertical angle. I opened up the retractor and found that the mechanism that limits the vertical orientation can be disabled easily (and reversibly if needed). The white plastic nub can be turned up to disable the vertical limiting mechanism. Disabling should enable it to work at an angle from the forward mount. Ofcourse, the locating pin on the back of the retractor would have to be cut off or another hole drilled, or I get a retractor without the pin. Al, will call you next week about the other idea you have. If these don't work, I'll go with a manual 3 pt. Byas PS: I am getting better at rewinding the retracting spring to tighten up the retracting mechanism - not fun, but do-able.