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bnam

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Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    I fought this problem as well (hazards work, but turn signal would die after one or 2 blinks and then stopped altogether. Initially, I thought it was loose contact at the relay and figdeting with it seeme to clear up the problem, but it came back and finally no amount of futzing with the connections helped. Tried new relay - no use. Then solved it (at least for me). The problem was the contacts inside the turn signal switch. I don't recall the exact combination of things I tried to clean it, but it involved spraying electrical contact cleaner as well as running some sandpaper between the contacts inside the housing. Has worked just fine for a 2-3months since the "fix." Byas
  2. bnam
    Hey. Quick question. Can you kindly described your sensor/controller setup? I have a wideband afr see sorry but it's just hooked up to guage and I'd like to have mine record more info, like rpms. How do you have the rpms readings taken? Thank you. I have this device LM02 instead of a gauge. I've also hooked up a connection from the tach for rpm (actually from the the test plug in the engine bay). I also have a manifold vacuum sensor which I've not hooked up yet. The LM02 lets you log multiple inputs at the same time. you ca record on SD card or direct to PC (see earlier pic of a screen shot).
  3. bnam
    One thought... The cool denser air could cause it to run richer when cold and then the less dense hotter air in the afternoon causes richer AF ratios. I think leaner mixtures burn hotter. Or perhaps, the coolant temp valve is slower to open when cold causing it to run hotter? B
  4. bnam
    Gerry, can you explain a bit more on why you think the radio install is at fault? The circuit it is on (for the power) is the one provided by BMW for the radio, and the constant 12V (for memory retention only) is on one from the ignition. All grounds had been cleaned out and Radio has it's own ground. But, I've obviously missed something. Byas
  5. bnam
    When I left for work (20mi drive one way) at 5:10am yesterday in my 74 Tii, it was about low 60F outside. I was surprised to see the temp guage which normally stay horizontal hover at about a 3rd of the way beyond horizontal and the red mark. When I turned the heat on, the guage dropped, but went back up when I turned heat off. During my return, temp was in 90s, but the temp gauge stayed horizontal throughout the drive back -- even through the section of crawling traffic. What would make it run hotter when cold? Or could the reading be higher because I also had my headlights on? And the other mystery: I had recently installed an Alpine radio -- wired the power thru the existing radio power supply in the harness, an always on +12V from the ignition harness under the steering column cover, and the instrument lighting signal. Everything works well. Except, as I noticed yesterday -- when I have my headlights on, and I turn on the left turn signal, the radio cuts out for an instant and comes back on. No issue with right turn signal. Both sides work when headlights off. I think the issue is also there if I run with just parking lights. I suspect it has something to do with the left turn lamp wiring. I had noticed that the lamp blinked even when the lamp was unscrewed from the car body -- perhaps indicating it was grounding thru the parking lamp circuit. Byas
  6. bnam
    .....come on, this is a yahoo result............ It maybe a Yahoo result -- but regardless, most people (including me) would not consider it an '02 a pretty car. There are other categories in which it would do well, but not on prettiness. B
  7. bnam
    Is it just my computer (I'm on a new Ultrabook) -- the above pics all seem gray -- not blue at all. BN
  8. bnam
    Bill, My reasoning is that the screw is not just a stop. A stop is active only when the lever/throttle comes in contact with it. And not in effect for the rest of the range of motion. In the pic below, you'll notice that the spring keeps the throttle lever in constant contact with the cam -- throughout the range of motion and the screw changes the relative angle between the lever and the cam which then remains changed throughout the motion of the lever. Throttle lever is actually 2 parts: The lower part is the cam follower. The screw is affixed to the cam follower. The upper part is really the throttle lever and this is what moves the throttle valve. THe long black line indicates the position of the throttle valve. The screw adjusts the angle between the throttle valve and the cam follower. And, this angle is constant. For the screw to be a stop IMO -- it should have been mounted on a fixed part and not on the cam follower. At least in the later model throttle body, that is not the case. Byas
  9. bnam
    The screw inside the can advances or retards the the throttle butterfly relative to the fuel pump linkage. This relative position is changed across the full range of movement. However, since the change is very finegrain, it is material only at very small throttle openings (ie. most impact at idle) with diminishing impact as it opens up. Byas
  10. bnam
    I'd wondered about this myself. My possibly harebrained idea is to cut a little hole and inject some expanding insulating foam, spread it out evenly and let it cure between 2 flat wooden pieces with some books or other weight on top. Thoughts?
  11. bnam
    Cap was tight and has gasket. I cleaned it and put it back on. Just puzzled that it happened out of the blue. Was concerned that it was an indicator of head not draining properly. Overthinking it pethaps.
  12. bnam
    I drove my 74Tii this morning when I went for a run (2 miles each way to the trail). About an hour after coming back I went to check the engine oil level when I noticed a trail of oil from the oil cap down on to the cylinder head cover. It hadn't been there the previous night. Never had that happen before in the 6month/2K miles I've had the car. Is this an indication of something going wrong? Or just a random occurence? Byas
  13. bnam
    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,375670/sid,8075896bea9116754a29ca92d06813d6/ I installed this Alpine with CD. This replaced a JVC with CD. In either case no problem. I had also read another thread earlier of someone complaining of not enough space between gear shift and console with the Behr Console. The pic shows the gear in 1st gear with lots of space. 5th is the same. Byas
  14. bnam
    I'm interested in the underdash (drivers side) trim covers. The piece under the steering column as well as the adjacent pieces if you have them. Email me. Thanks! Byas
  15. bnam
    I'm looking for one (driver side) rear Tii trailing arm. Byas
  16. bnam
    I do have one unbroken original style door brake in case you want to keep it original. Byas
  17. bnam
    Just installed this CDE-135BT Alpine radio in my '74 - along with new speakers on the rear shelf. Sounds pretty good. I positioned the hands free phone mic on the console itself and it picks up my voice clearly. Downsides -- the radio said iphone and Pandora ready. But, Pandora works only on Andriod BB but not iOS. I also wonder if I should have picked up the HD radio version instead. I built a new shelf with particle board from HD, but when I got the clips from Max I realized the board is a slightly too thick. Where can I get the right thickness board? I also need to get some Marine blue vinyl to cover it. Sources? Need to check if Dave sell material by the yard. Byas
  18. bnam
    Al, I may have lucked out as the the seat belt retracts properly (actually a bit better than before). The screw I'm missing is for the plastic cover of the retractor spring. Looked smaller than m5, but I'll try that. Byas
  19. bnam
    The front seat belts on my 74 (actually front and rear) work reasonably well -- probably were not used for the first 30 years. But, being one never content to leave well enough alone, I thought perhaps the seat belt locking mechanism could use a bit of cleaning and lubing. So pulled off the drivers side seat belt retractor and started unscrewing the black plastic side covers. Of course, since I had done no research on these -- the side I opened was the one with the retraction spring which jumped out all tangled up -- was lucky it did not hit my eye. I thought I was going to be out of luck, but with some patience and a helping hand from my daughter I was able to rewind the spring and adjust it for the right amount of seat belt extension and just a bit more retractor tension than it had. However, when the plastic cover popped open, I lost one of the 2 screws that held it on. So hoping to someone has a no longer used/useful seat belt assembly and can spare me the screws. I still intend to replace the rear belts with 3 points -- need to talk to Al about it. Byas
  20. bnam
    There's a source on ebay for these caps -- search for member name 512classics. I bought 3 of them. $30 each. Check the number under the cap and match them. Byas
  21. bnam
    I'll take the rear subframe with trailing arms if still available. Byas
  22. bnam
    'd have to disagree with CD and say don't do it. 21w in that space will cause the plastic to melt -- it is not designed to dissipate the heat. My understanding/reasoning for the square opening -- was that it was a way to light up the inside of the trunk at night. Note the inside cover has a matching clear area corresponding to the opening. Byas
  23. bnam
    After I bought those $$$ lens gaskets I remember looking at them and realizing they looked very much like those on my 71 Beetle -- perhaps a different length. Here's what I was thinking of trying the next time. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24-111-945-235-C While this looks shape, the part I got when I ordered a few years ago was just a straight strip like the BMW part. BTW, those license plate lights were also on old Audis (I found one in the local P&P yard) Byas
  24. bnam
    Mounted with hook/loop tape. I figure once I get teh car tunes, I will remove it and use it only occasionally. Byas
  25. bnam
    Not sure as the change was done by the PO. They are higher comp pistons. Current status: I did tune up the linkages and the settings and the car ran well and idles very well at 900rpm. I've installed a WB 02 sensor and an rpm sensor controlled by an Innovate LM02. Car was running pretty lean. I've adjusted the verboten screw on the pump now am at about 13.5 at WOT thru about 4K getting leaner above that. Tuning not complete yet. I've bought a MAP sensor as well so I can check part throttle more consistently, but am yet to install it. My thought is to get it tuned as well as possible and see where that gets me. Byas
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