Jump to content

bnam

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    988

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    Driving back home -- readings were still 14. to 16 throughout. Felt too high. WOT on 4th uphill doing about 70 on HYWY 50 it was 15.8 When I got home, I turned the screw in 1/4 turn then drove to get some gas. A new problem cropped up -- car would not return to idle quickly -- took a while. I suspected an airleak -- 3 suspects behind the throttle were the hose from the warm up regulator to throttle body and the 2 hoses that go to the deceleration valve (74Tii only). I clamped the larger of the latter 2 and the revs immediately died down. Looks like a failed valve. Once clamped, the AFR ratios were much lower. The no-load readings at the above RPMs were all around 11-12. I'll cap off both the valve hoses, and check the AFR readings with load tomorrow. Byas
  2. bnam
    Cam rests against #1 position. So 4mm rod works just as well.
  3. bnam
    I have a new(ish) (002 I believe) centrifugal only Tii distributor that came with the car. However, I had noticed that it puts out more advance than stock. I could not do the 2500rpm "ball" timing -- fuel return hose and Airbox back nozzle were in the way, but did 2500 timing using the front mark and adjustable light. However, this then gave me couple of degrees of retard at idle. So now timed to be 6deg advance at idle. My estimate is that this results in ~32deg @2500 vs. the 27deg spec. What is the impact of this timing on the mixture - if any? I did acquire a used original 74Tii distributor. I can swap it in and see if it has a better curve. Driving to work this morning fully warmed up pulling uphill 3000rpm in 4th, the reading was 15.x. Cruising part throttle flat road at 65 in 5th, the readings were 14.8-15.2. I'll need to find a long uphill to go full throttle -- there's a 25mph speed limit on the one on which we live. Byas
  4. bnam
    Got it. Luckily I live on the top of a hill so can do a 2nd gear 4K runs on the road that runs by my house and loops back down the hill. Will try this evening. Byas
  5. bnam
    The wires are bare soldered ends. On the later models these ends are inserted into the connectors on the lamp and tightened with a screw. Byas
  6. bnam
    Agree it's way too lean. Car came with the cam. Plus not sure if the screw had been futzed with. Adjusted it a bit and got the following result. 900 - 12.3 (no significant change) 1000 -- 11.3 1500* -- 13.7 (est) 2000 -- 12.7 2500 -- 14.5 3000 -- 14.9 Down. But still too lean. Too late to try another round today. BTW, I had a problem with getting a reading at 1500 rpm. I could not hold it at 1500. I can get to about 1350, but if I push slightly beyond that, it revs up to 17-1800. Same while going down from 1700. It's way too sensitive in that range. Is this common for Tiis or unique to my car? Can anyone else hold 1500 on their Tii? One more question -- these readings are with the car stationary and revved up -- i.e. no load. Is this a factor one way or another? Thx! Byas
  7. bnam
    Until you get the coil from blunt, try your current set up without the ballast. So, when you put the new coil on, you'll have a better comparison vs. the Blue coil. B
  8. bnam
    My first set of readings: 900 (idle) -- 12.2 1000 -- 11.7 1500* -- 13.0 2000 -- 14.0 2500 -- 16.1 3000 -- 16.1 Since most of my driving is in the 2000-3500 range, should I try to get it richer there? and live with it being over rich in the lower down? I'm assuming I can get idle back closer to about 13 with the screw once I've set the general enrichment. This is my first time attempting this, so would appreciate any guidance and constructive criticism. Thx! Byas
  9. bnam
    What's a good location to mount a 12V power outlet under the dash on a 74? Preferably drivers side.
  10. bnam
    I installed a W02 sensor and logging capable controller (LM02) on my 74Tii yesterday and after some initial issues (I did not calibrate it even though I thought I did), I got it working and it shows me that the car is running pretty lean. Once I attached the RPM sensor, I will log my readings. The car came with a 292cam, so I know I will not get it "proper", but wondering if there were suggestions on what reasonable compromise would be. Byas
  11. bnam
    I believe you need to remove the external resistor if you're using a Blue coil as it is internally ballasted -- so you've right now got it with 2 resistors -- thus decreasing the voltage quite a bit. Try that first. The non-ballasted coils would be the black or red ones which need an external 1.8ohm resister I believe. Byas
  12. bnam
    Great! Just the question I was about to ask -- now that I've got my WB02 installed (though not working correctly yet). Just copied the info from the MG link. Byas
  13. bnam
    CD -- not sure I understand. That is a new OEM gasket. I did not reuse. Not sure what do do about the washers. I did not use them since the parts manual did not indicate them. I've driven the car about 20miles since the install. Should I consider remove the nuts to put washers underneath -- or do I just leave em on as is? I'm inclined to the latter. B
  14. bnam
    I used the OEM nuts from Mobile Tradition from the parts book (which shows no washers for my model). All installed. Was actually able to get a torque wrench on all of them. Though, now that I think of it -- I did not lube before torquing so readings are probably off. Everything went back on together nicely. Had problems with the WB02 install though. I ended up taking the sensor wire thru the hole in the pedal box cover as I could find no other hole to push it thru. Even tried the hold for the release cable. May just have to drill one. I initially calibrated the WB02 per instructions on my regular car -- just needs 12V. When installed it on the '74 and plugged in to cigarette lighter, I kept getting an error E9 (low voltage - check corrosion in socket -- according to the LM02 manual error appendix). So drove to parts store and installed a power outlet. Now no error message, but sensor heats up only to about 65-72% and it just bounces (regardless of throttle/rpm between 7.4 and 22 AFR. Not sure what's going on. Byas
  15. bnam
    Finally I had all the parts needed so removed the exhaust this morning. The studs that were on there were not the OEM ones and were shorter. But more importantly, they had been installed reversed -- longer end in. As a result, the exhaust was not fully sealed as the nuts hit the unthreaded area before being fully tight. Here's a comparison with the black BMW studs. The shorter end goes into the block. The new studs were a tight fit even after cleaning out the holes. I put RTV on the threads of the upper studs. I took out the exhaust to install this threaded bit to mount a WB02 sensor. Will finish up tomorrow. The parts diag shows no washers for the exhaust manifold hex nuts. Is that correct? Byas
  16. bnam
    Also, Hazards are wired to work even with the ignition off (i.e. unswitched 12V), while the blinkers only work when ignition is on -- (different power source than the hazards) -- so check the fuses for the blinkers. Byas
  17. bnam
    I just got the one year only retard vacuum distributor for my 74tii. I'd like to renew/rebuild it before I install. How much axial play is permissible? Can I add shims to reduce? Are rebuild kits avail? The outer O-ring -- is that something that would be avail at a local parts store or a BMW only part? What's a good source for Bosch distributor grease? Thanks! Byas
  18. bnam
    (nt)
  19. bnam
    I just levered it off.
  20. bnam
    I have a Tii with a non-tii alternator. I've seen pics of a spacer that can be used to convert the non-tii alternator to fit on the tii mount. Mine is mounted with a strap and a block of wood. Thanks! Byas
  21. bnam
    Is the rubber trim that goes around the center still available? Byas
  22. bnam
    Yes, I do have both BEHR docs. The part I need is the lower bracket on the pass side. Thanks for the information on the non-interchangability with Frigiking and Clardy. Will continue looking for this part. Byas
  23. bnam
    I need following parts: * one lower mounting L-shaped bracket for the AC condenser. * 1x plastic washer that goes behind the window vent knob * 2x springs that go behind the vent knob (under the door panel) * 2x plastic washers that go under the interior door release handle * 1x unbroken door brake in good condition. Please email me from link above if you have any of these parts avail. Thanks! Byas
  24. bnam
    I'd like to start with the BEHR, see how it works then decide if I need a better system or can live with this. While this is not my daily driver, I do want to be able to drive it frequently enough. Byas
  25. bnam
    Has anyone converted the welded-in one to bolt in? How did you do it? Modified the welded in one? Used the bolt-in one? etc... Thx! Byas
×
×
  • Create New...